Motor Running, Squeaky Noises, Metal Shavings Found
So, let's start from the beginning. Is that a Box Stock Project engine? Did you do anything other than the parts for the mud boat? How much time is on it? What oil are you using? The more info the better. My guess is that the rod galling up on the crank and when it gets hot it slows and locks the engine but it's very hard to tell from a video.
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Yes, this is a Box Stock Engine. I changed to an ARC billet rod. I put in a UT2 GX160 flat-top piston as well. The piston is -0.080, the rod id +0.080. The overall length is stock length. The piston was 0.010 in the hole. I use a 0.020 gasket. I had Wal-mart 10W30 oil to break in the motor, I was going to add AMZoil Z Rod once the motor was broken in.
The crank measures to specs. The oil clearance was perfect. It matched ARC's spec sheet just right. I seated the connecting rod on the crank outside the motor in my vice. I put it in the motor and torqued it to 150 inch lbs. I had molylube.
Looks like I'll have put my Champ motor back on until I can get this motor apart and look as what's going on inside. The problem is definitely in the motor because I took off the longtail along with the coupling housing which has a bearing that might have been going bad. Nope. It's totally in the engine. The sound is happening inside the engine.
This is a brand new engine.
The crank measures to specs. The oil clearance was perfect. It matched ARC's spec sheet just right. I seated the connecting rod on the crank outside the motor in my vice. I put it in the motor and torqued it to 150 inch lbs. I had molylube.
Looks like I'll have put my Champ motor back on until I can get this motor apart and look as what's going on inside. The problem is definitely in the motor because I took off the longtail along with the coupling housing which has a bearing that might have been going bad. Nope. It's totally in the engine. The sound is happening inside the engine.
This is a brand new engine.
Just pulled the motor apart. the camshaft is shreaded. There are metal shards coming off the intake lobe on the camshaft. I'm running an NR Racing 203 camshaft. Man, the lobes look beat up. I ran the requisite 22 lbs springs. I think I'll just put the BSP-4 cam back in and go with that.
Someone on my YouTube channel mentioned that the ping could come from too high of timing. I just used the stock keyway and bolted the flywheel on. Do you think that could be an issue? The crankshaft turn freely, but I need to take off the cylinder head tomorrow for a complete breakdown.
Someone on my YouTube channel mentioned that the ping could come from too high of timing. I just used the stock keyway and bolted the flywheel on. Do you think that could be an issue? The crankshaft turn freely, but I need to take off the cylinder head tomorrow for a complete breakdown.
I would take it all back apart clean it and check the bore !!! Second I would call Russel and tell him about the cam ... Cheap 10/30 is not good break in oil but the cam lobes should not be tore up with those light springs and short run time ... Think I told you after the predator to buy a real Honda ... Years of abuse and still run like tops ...
Sounds like the cam might have hit the crank if the lobes are "shredded" and torn up. When it went together, did you turn it by hand first, without a plug, & check for clearance? Sounds strange to me, but if the cam hit the crank a few times, that's going to be the problem. Does the crank have any marks at the point it might have hit on the way past the cam lobe?
You said in the video there was 16 ounces of oil in it, just curious but what is a "normal" oil level in that motor? I run synthetic always, especially for the break-in period. People say it won't work to seat the rings, but that's complete BS, along with the added zinc argument.
Will be curious to see what it was, since this is sounding fairly strange. Hope it gets worked out ok for you. Sounds like the whole thing needs to be taken apart, cleaned out & then put back together fresh. Chin up buddy, it's just a machine & you'll figure it out!
You said in the video there was 16 ounces of oil in it, just curious but what is a "normal" oil level in that motor? I run synthetic always, especially for the break-in period. People say it won't work to seat the rings, but that's complete BS, along with the added zinc argument.
Will be curious to see what it was, since this is sounding fairly strange. Hope it gets worked out ok for you. Sounds like the whole thing needs to be taken apart, cleaned out & then put back together fresh. Chin up buddy, it's just a machine & you'll figure it out!
NO SYNTHETIC OIL for break in ..... Highly unlikely with that cam that you would contact the crank ... I run a isky 310 in one of my Hondas had to clearance the block slightly but have never hit a crank .. I know some of the hemis require some clearancing with smaller cams but a true clone shouldn't even with more duration
Nose, 16 ounces is normal for that motor. That's about two ounces more than I normally put is which is the requisite amount of oil for style motor. When I say shredded, it's more like smashed and the shards are coming off the sides of the intake lobe. Also I haven't taken the cylinder head or flywheel of to get at the crank to see what's going on.
I have AMSOIL Z-rod, but I always thought you weren't supposed to breaking a new motor with synthetic.
Looks like Trinik is right, again. I'll see what I can do with this motor, but long term looks like Genuine Honda is the only powerhead that can do this job.
I have AMSOIL Z-rod, but I always thought you weren't supposed to breaking a new motor with synthetic.
Looks like Trinik is right, again. I'll see what I can do with this motor, but long term looks like Genuine Honda is the only powerhead that can do this job.
You got a bad core BWL ... And grinding it to almost a flat top for that much duration probably didn't help ... Would not have been my cam choice for your application but I am sure he will make it right by you ... I been using the rottela 15/40 for break-in ... Then you can run a straight 30 weight or medium weight synthetic .. I just hope since you didn't run it that long that your bore is not all tore up
Let us know what she looks like when you get it apart ... It's going to have to get a complete Break down and cleaning ... If you got a new style rod check the oiling hole on the dipper too that it doesn't have debris in it .. if nr doesn't replace the cam for you just let me know I have a nice modified dyno cam I will send you
Well you pretty much hit the nail on the head Tim , In my years of karting I learned after about two weekends of racing in the CL-1 class that you need to toss the springs and install new ones....If you wanted to run up front . Or sometimes you could pay the Tec guy to re-stretch and size them for a small fee.