MTD Trail Flite Torque Converter Question?

#21
Well the Comet stuff will fit, but now I need a longer jackshaft since the Comet driver is wider than the V plex.
Ordered that and a belt i’ll update when everything comes in
 
#22
Just to update this thread-

I installed a Comet 30 style Chinese TC setup on the bike, and it works perfectly. Still don’t have a TC cover on it though.

Here’s a question, will the Comet setup fit under a stock Trail Flite cover like this one?

These covers seem to be hard to find, and probably expensive. I don’t mind paying the money but if it won’t fit my current setup, there’s no reason to go down that rabbit hole.

If anyone knows whether it will fit or not, that would be very helpful, thanks.
 

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GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#23
You can still use a plastic cover, you just need to cut the back out of it and fab up some way to mount it. I put a plastic cover on my Wards 525 as the center to center distance was more than the cover was designed for. Here is a picture, you can see the cut cover in it. Works just fine :)
Danford1
How much horsepower is that newer Brigg OHV engine putting out? It seems to fit pretty good on that bike. Was the original engine a Tecumseh HS40?
 
#27
you can use the plastic cover and bracket from the china tav30 kit. it does work. i've done that on a mtd before.
Thanks!
I have the plastic cover, but no bracket. I didn’t buy a full kit, only the driven, driver and cover.
Do you mean the big mounting plate?
 
#28
you can use the plastic cover and bracket from the china tav30 kit. it does work. i've done that on a mtd before.

Thanks for this info cfh!

I ordered a backing plate, came today. I cut the rear portion of it off. Also had to clearance for the center kickstand.
Went to bolt it on and once tightened, noticed the rear flange of the driver was contacting the backing plate, not allowing the engine to turn!
I was running the China driver with no spacer, and since there was no plate, there was no need for a spacer but now obviously I needed one. Luckily I never throw anything away, so I was able to find a 3/4” diam spacer in my stash. Once the spacer was installed everything seemed fine. Had to do some more trimming to the cover, but once installed seemed to clear everything. Road test confirmed that everything works fine.
I have been riding this bike with no cover for a long time now, nice to not worry about moving parts a half inch from my foot/leg.
Here’s how it came out:



I am toying with making a cover out of fiberglass, I have done that before with automotive stuff and it worked pretty well.
That’s a lot of work though so not going to be super easy lol
 
#29
Once my extended oil fill gets here, I will update with pics. This will hopefully raise the fill up to where the tav and cover will not interfere with oil changes.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#30
what you did is exactly how i did it too. it works pretty darn well. finding an original TC mtd cover is not easy. and then you have to make the engine TC brackets too. (because they never come with an original cover!)
 
#31
Well I was prepared to find and pay for an original cover, thanks for showing another way.
I like the plastic cover better, metal can get dented in and maybe cause some damage, but the plastic cover will just crack/break and those covers are much cheaper and easier to replace than an original!
 
#32
Just to update this thread-

I installed a Comet 30 style Chinese TC setup on the bike, and it works perfectly. Still don’t have a TC cover on it though.
How did you mount the driven pulley to the MTD jackshaft?

I'm in the exact same boat. GX200 clone engine with 3/4" shaft, stock MTD 5/8" jackshaft. I got a type 30 torque converter. Removed the driven pulley from the shaft on the new unit and it slides perfectly onto the stock MTD jackshaft, but there is of course no mechanism to hold it in place. No threads, no groove for a circlip etc.

Thinking about having it drilled and tapped for a bolt/washer to go in. I don't think there's enough space to have a groove machined for a clip.

What did you end up doing?
 
#33
I bought a 5/8” axle and cut it to the proper length, drilled and tapped both sides and run bolts on both sides.
There is an internal spacer that goes over the axle and between the bearings inside the frame. This allows the bolts to be tightened without binding up the bearings.
 
#34
Got it. I wasn't sure how the shaft was fastened in place. I just pulled the motor out and will break the rest of the bike down in the coming days. Might try to slap a coat of orange paint on it. Sadly someone spray bombed it black but I can see the original paint under some parts I've removed.

Once I have it out I'll order a longer shaft from OldMiniBikes Warehouse and maybe just use some of the collars w set screws, or will get fancy and have it drilled and tapped. I don't have access to tools down here and last time I tried to take parts home on the flight (pair of shocks for an ST90 I'm restoring in Toronto) as carry-on, they refused and I had to leave them behind. 'Tool more than 7" long' was the rather funny excuse, but I should have known better with hydraulic fluid being a hazardous material in any event.

Need to source replacement shocks for it as well I think. I'm prepping it for the Small Bore event at Barber next June - no tearing rush. Just didn't have a small bike (< 200cc) for the event and found this one close by. Piqued my interest with the front suspension etc.
 
#36
The collars/set screw idea was just to keep the pulley on the shaft, not to keep it from rotating (which of course is the keyway's purpose). Was just considering short-cuts to avoid drilling/tapping etc. Get a jackshaft about the right length and put collars on each end to keep it in place.

But I have a friend who can machine it for me - so will probably get it threaded on both ends and put nylocs on it, like on the end of the shaft that the torque converter kit comes with.

Do you have a thread of your project?
 
#37
I get what you are saying, sorry I thought you were saying using set screws only, and not a key.
I just used my drill press and tap and die kit. Went slow and took my time and it has held up for a number of years.
Little blue loctite never hurts.

As far as a thread, I kinda start threads as needed, I have started plenty of threads with plenty of pics.

If you need any help on anything specific I will help if I can.
 
#38
I wasn't looking closely enough at OldMiniBikes Warehouse and realized they have threaded jackshafts. Looks like a 10" jackshaft will be pretty close to perfect allowing about 1" of thread exposed on either end for a simple nyloc nut and washer setup to keep things in place. Might be a little better than collars, and this way I don't have to sweat cutting the shaft to length.
 
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