My Rides

[RiderZ]

Wife and I were looking through old photo albums the other day.
I found pics of my CRG race kart, I ran five seasons with it. Fourth season ended up 3rd in the season points championship.
Should have hung it on the wall and kept it.
Bummer.
Italian HPV Iame 100cc 2 stroke
CRG chassis, can't remember model.
Spec 100 oct Sunoco fuel Redline oil
Spec MG medium tires.
Two classes HPV light HPV heavy
I was in the light class running with a bunch of fearless 18+ wannabes looking for a ride in Indy light cars.

 

[RiderZ]

Bought a Predator Ghost.
It is going to get a Predator standard fuel tank. Sure is a piece of eye candy, not sure it was worth the money.
But I'm about to find out.
12-62 sprockets.
It will be installed in the Pecker.

 

[Minimichael]

Is that the same sprocket set-up the Pecker had before?

 

[19honda69]

Upgraded the carb on the War Horse.
Fvrito 26mm Amazon special, very impressed.
Idles like a sewing machine and really has a lot more pull on the top end.
18-68 gearing.

Thats a bad little machiine

 

[RiderZ]

Is that the same sprocket set-up the Pecker had before?

No, I put a 6" wheel/tire on the back, originally had 5's front/back
And put the 60t sprocket on there.

 

[RiderZ]

Can't believe nobody commented on the oil bottles on the bench.

 

[RiderZ]

Ghost will be mounted in the bike tomorrow. Just needs oil, have heard good things about Royal Purple. Full synthetic so I will try it out. Ten hours of break in time.
Should be fun.

 

[Minimichael]

I heard you're not supposed to break in with synthetic oil.

 

[Augiedoggie]

I heard you're not supposed to break in with synthetic oil.

Yup. No need for synthetic oil for break in. Common practice to use mineral oil for break in and use synthetic once she’s broken in fully. Modern cars and motorcycles will run synthetics from new but that’s a completely different animal. Small engines don’t enjoy their manufacturing precision and materials. Best to use proven old school methods for our toys as always.

 

[RiderZ]

Yup. No need for synthetic oil for break in. Common practice to use mineral oil for break in and use synthetic once she’s broken in fully. Modern cars and motorcycles will run synthetics from new but that’s a completely different animal. Small engines don’t enjoy their manufacturing precision and materials. Best to use proven old school methods for our toys as always.

I have the operation manual and it clearly states to fill engine with synthetic 10w-30 motor oil.
10 hours of break in time.
That's what the manual states, so that's what I will do.

 

[RiderZ]

Got the Ghost engine wrapped up and dropped in the frame. Still waiting for the the oil. Amazon dropped the ball on this order. Hope to start it Monday.

 

[RiderZ]

So what do I do with this 212 ?
Has about a half tank of gas run through it.
Sure I will find something to put it in.

 

[RiderZ]

Page 2 of the Ghost operators manual says to use quality synthetic 10w-30 motor oil.
Few comments about not using synthetic oil for new engine break in.
So okay, what is the best/right/correct way and oil type to break in a "performance" small 4 stroke engine. I by no means can answer this question. Not an engine building guru or tuner by any means.
Let's hear a few more suggestions from the knowledgeable and seasoned small engine professionals.
I know there are many members here who fit in that category.
SAE dinosaur oil or SAE lab grown synthetic oil?????

 

[RiderZ]

The Ghost runs ! Finally got the oil.
UPS man pulled in just as I was getting off the lawn mower for the first time this season. Didn't take too many pulls to get it running. It's going to be a fun ride.
This morning I ordered a GPS Rascal Lite for a home for the other engine. Get it off the workbench.

 

[RiderZ]

Kicking around ideas in my head for what to do with this one.

 

[RiderZ]

Took the Pecker out for a little ride this evening. Obviously I didn't get too deep into the throttle but it's pretty damned spunky on this little bike. Starts up 2-3 pulls.
Got 9.5 hours left before it's broke in.
Thinking it will be a scary ride at full tilt.

 

[Minimichael]

I'm no expert, but have read that breaking in is about the metal on metal surfaces getting comfortable and maybe deburring themselves and just settling in together, and that synthetic may be too slippery and might even get in the way of that, and that the dino oil more reliably breaks down and even facilitates initial wear and the whole mating up process of parts like rings, piston skirts, lifters and lobes. Not sure what to say about rod bearings since they can seem like a delicate alloy so just who knows but I do know you want to break in gradually throttle wise and consider checking and changing oil out for fresh more than just once at the end since too much metal shavings in your sludge is not what you want to find AFTER your nice long break in period. Anyway that's just what I've heard, and I can't say I've ever had a problem one way or another with any of my 2 or so break-in experiences, and maybe it's all different for OHV technologies, but either way I'd say work your way up to higher revving and drain the oil once about half way through. My two cents.

 

[Minimichael]

Kicking around ideas in my head for what to do with this one.

Man I love the look of that frame. Looking forward to see what you do with it. No doubt, it will turn out looking pro.

 

[RiderZ]

Man I love the look of that frame. Looking forward to see what you do with it. No doubt, it will turn out looking pro.

This is my second Rascal, the other one was more expensive with the hydraulic brake and better wheels. I don't think those two options are that big of a deal.
Already got the 98cc engine sold that comes with the Rascal Lite.
Already have a paint scheme and decals ordered.

 

[RiderZ]

I'm no expert, but have read that breaking in is about the metal on metal surfaces getting comfortable and maybe deburring themselves and just settling in together, and that synthetic may be too slippery and might even get in the way of that, and that the dino oil more reliably breaks down and even facilitates initial wear and the whole mating up process of parts like rings, piston skirts, lifters and lobes. Not sure what to say about rod bearings since they can seem like a delicate alloy so just who knows but I do know you want to break in gradually throttle wise and consider checking and changing oil out for fresh more than just once at the end since too much metal shavings in your sludge is not what you want to find AFTER your nice long break in period. Anyway that's just what I've heard, and I can't say I've ever had a problem one way or another with any of my 2 or so break-in experiences, and maybe it's all different for OHV technologies, but either way I'd say work your way up to higher revving and drain the oil once about half way through. My two cents.

I understand your thinking, will change the oil at about 5 hrs to get a look at what's going on inside the engine.Or even sooner as I have two quarts of the Royal Purple synthetic oil.
I added some Edelbrock zddp oil additive as I have done with my other engines.
Just looking for other opinions, but for what the engine cost. I suppose I should follow the manufacturers recommendations.