Need Advice (New Coleman CT200U-EX

[pracydna]

Hello everyone, I'm new in here and also new to the mini bike world. I'm 45, retired and not that fluent with engines, but I consider myself a fast learner and mechanically inclined so I'm not afraid to attempt new things.

I just purchased a Coleman CT200U-EX. I've ran it for just about 6 hours and have changed the oil in it. Looking to make some non-expensive upgrades without hurting the engine to begin with. So far, I've removed the throttle limiting screw completely and changed that annoying binding spring on the throttle cable and replaced it with an OEM gx200 spring (boy what a difference, feels like a different bike).

Anywho, I'd like to remove the governor and I'm getting mixed opinions on what to do after that. I know I need the 18# valve springs, but is there anything else that I truly need so the engine isn't at risk?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[OND]

In my opinion you need a billet flywheel and a billet rod , and then throw at it some bigger springs and such .

 

[pracydna]

In my opinion you need a billet flywheel and a billet rod , and then throw at it some bigger springs and such .

Will that do it so the engine is safe?

Also, do you think the predator engine is a better start, or am I fine with this version of the clone? I did notice this 196cc has a 5/8" shaft, but I saw a video where you could put the OEM gx200 3/4 shaft on it and it fits like a glove. Do you think that's necessary?

 

[pracydna]

In my opinion you need a billet flywheel and a billet rod , and then throw at it some bigger springs and such .

Oh sorry and what did you mean by bigger springs? Bigger than the 18# ones? Sorry just clarifying.

 

[EVOL Tweety Bird]

Ditto what OND said, the stock rod/flywheel is designed for the max governed speed, removing the governor means you will now exceed that design. Really ugly things can happen when you exceed design specs. Especially when you are sitting on top of the engine.

The spring thing again has to do with design limits. Especially when you exceed stock rpms, and/or do things like a cam swap. Higher rpms will have the valves floating as the spring aren't strong enough. I'm running a Mod2 cam and went with 22 pound springs. From what I understand some of the 18's can bind on you, so you need to make sure you get the correct ones, or mod the spring seats.

Me? I would leave the stock engine stock. Go pick up a Predator, invest in the hop up kit and build it up. That way you can still putt around on the bike while you build the other engine. Then do an engine swap.

Might even look at tossing the stock clutch/jackshaft for a torque convertor. Made a world of difference on my CT200U

p.s. you'll soon come to find out it's an addiction. It never stops. Mod the engine. Swap out for more power. Toss the clutch for a T/C. Replace the tires with better ones. Add front motorcycle style forks. Add lights. Add front brakes. Do some paint work. Add a speedometer. Oh Gawd!

 

[Havasu Dave]

Me? I would leave the stock engine stock. Go pick up a Predator, invest in the hop up kit and build it up. That way you can still putt around on the bike while you build the other engine. Then do an engine swap.

:thumbsup: Excellent advice. Also, this gives him extra time to explore the many upgrade options out there, and make sound decisions without being rushed to ride, etc.

 

[Raskin]

Well..I'm a little different but i just remove the governor and deal with exhaust,airflow and jetting because my riding mostly on dirt road and my large lawn so my riding consists of off idle to 4500 or rpm or less so why bulid an engine up to run high rpm if will never use 5000 to 8000 rpm range..anyways that's just my take on it..no use in putting valve springs unless you are planing to go whole hog :shrug::laugh:

 

[osu1978]

If you want to waste money go for the predator. The stock Hisun is better quality. I have built mine up and put tons of hours on the CT200u-ex. It goes over 50 MPH, can turn over 7500 rpms and climb hills. Still running stock jack shaft and Hilliard extreme duty clutch.

 

[SAS289]

I agree with OSU1978 but also agree that it would add to the fun by having another engine to build up.

I find it funny how so many have pretty much discarded the Hisun engine just for the 3/4" shafted Predator. From what I can tell the Hisun engine is not bad. If I needed a 3/4" crank I would get one and swap it out. I wouldn't get a whole new engine.

 

[osu1978]

Pracydna, are you in the Columbus area?

A 3/4" clone crank is 25-30 bucks. Swap it out when you remove the governor and upgrade the rod/flywheel.

 

[pracydna]

Pracydna, are you in the Columbus area?

A 3/4" clone crank is 25-30 bucks. Swap it out when you remove the governor and upgrade the rod/flywheel.

OSU, I'm less than an hour North of Columbus bud. Right outside of Mansfield in a little town called Shelby.

 

[pracydna]

Update guys. I found a brand new Predator engine and new ARC billet flywheel on Craigslist for 100.00 for both. Couldn't pass it up. I'm definitely planning on keeping the stock motor in this thing though. I really like the sound and quality of it out of the box so I think I'm gonna keep it fresh and work on upgrading the predator. As I said, I'm just getting into this kinda thing, so having two motors, for me will alleviate down time on my riding and then allow me to take my time upgrading and tinkering with the predator.

Also, my neighbor's new BT200x will be here Friday. We're going to Walmart to pick it up at 5:30pm. Anyone have any information on that bike? We can't find anything online about it except that it never seems to be available for purchase.

Lastly, GO OSU!

 

[osu1978]

Update guys. I found a brand new Predator engine and new ARC billet flywheel on Craigslist for 100.00 for both. Couldn't pass it up. I'm definitely planning on keeping the stock motor in this thing though. I really like the sound and quality of it out of the box so I think I'm gonna keep it fresh and work on upgrading the predator. As I said, I'm just getting into this kinda thing, so having two motors, for me will alleviate down time on my riding and then allow me to take my time upgrading and tinkering with the predator.

Also, my neighbor's new BT200x will be here Friday. We're going to Walmart to pick it up at 5:30pm. Anyone have any information on that bike? We can't find anything online about it except that it never seems to be available for purchase.

Lastly, GO OSU!

Damn, $100 for both and they are new? Thats awesome. Good luck with your build.

 

[pracydna]

Well, I go to meet him tonight at 8:30pm. Anything I should look out for? Typically I've found if something seems too good to be true, it usually is. Says he bought the motor for a mini bike build. Purchased and installed the new flywheel, then broke it in by letting it idle for 5 hours. Does that sound legitimate? I found it odd that he'd purchase and install an ARC flywheel before doing anything else, but what do I know?

The engine does look brand new though from the pictures.

 

[Afterburner]

Ditto what OND said, the stock rod/flywheel is designed for the max governed speed, removing the governor means you will now exceed that design. Really ugly things can happen when you exceed design specs. Especially when you are sitting on top of the engine.

The spring thing again has to do with design limits. Especially when you exceed stock rpms, and/or do things like a cam swap. Higher rpms will have the valves floating as the spring aren't strong enough. I'm running a Mod2 cam and went with 22 pound springs. From what I understand some of the 18's can bind on you, so you need to make sure you get the correct ones, or mod the spring seats.

Me? I would leave the stock engine stock. Go pick up a Predator, invest in the hop up kit and build it up. That way you can still putt around on the bike while you build the other engine. Then do an engine swap.

Might even look at tossing the stock clutch/jackshaft for a torque convertor. Made a world of difference on my CT200U

p.s. you'll soon come to find out it's an addiction. It never stops. Mod the engine. Swap out for more power. Toss the clutch for a T/C. Replace the tires with better ones. Add front motorcycle style forks. Add lights. Add front brakes. Do some paint work. Add a speedometer. Oh Gawd!
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I just got my CT200u put together today and appreciate seeing all the quotes here today. Oddly enough, I had a Predator engine I had picked up from Harbor Freight for another project that didn't pan out, so I'm ahead of the curve for the eventual replacement. I think I'll just get all the Predator parts to enhance the performance and also get the generator/flywheel to add power for 12vdc to the Predator. Question I have - Is it a good idea to go ahead and get a torque converter for the CT200u?

 

[EVOL Tweety Bird]

Made a world of difference in mine. OldMiniBikes has a kit with the riser blocks to offset the engine for clearance. I did mine before it was offered, and had to do some modding to make it work. It's a tight fit with the non hemi as the stock fuel tank cap just clears enough to get it on and off. I don't think the stock Hemi tank will fit, if you use the tank from the Coleman that has the offset filler it makes it easier to fuel the bike.

 

[pracydna]

Made a world of difference in mine. OldMiniBikes has a kit with the riser blocks to offset the engine for clearance. I did mine before it was offered, and had to do some modding to make it work. It's a tight fit with the non hemi as the stock fuel tank cap just clears enough to get it on and off. I don't think the stock Hemi tank will fit, if you use the tank from the Coleman that has the offset filler it makes it easier to fuel the bike.

Tweety, are those risers necessary for a torque converter on a non-hemi predator engine with a CT200U-ex?

 

[pracydna]

Also, pretty sure THIS will work for my torque converter, as it seems to be a replica of the one on GoPowerSports for 180.00. Is there something I'm missing here or am I right?

 

[EVOL Tweety Bird]

Yeah you will need the risers, mine has the non Hemi on it. As for the kit, looks just like the one I used. It will take some modding to make it work. That's the difference between the one GPS and/or OldMiniBikes sell and the China one. If you use the China kit, you will need to provide your own risers. Also you will need to trim the lower rear portion of the T/C mount plate to clear the bike frame. You can raise the the engine to clear without cutting the plate, but your fuel tank won't fit then.

As stated you will need to remove the cross brace that the front of the chain guard attaches to.

Now all that said, I was told to not trust the belt that comes with the China kit, and to get the Comet belt. Maybe I'm lucky but it's been almost a year of riding and my belt looks just fine. The Comet belt is still unwrapped laying under the bench in my shop. Your mileage may vary.

Couple tips. I left the left side of chain guard cross brace long, and cut the right side off flush. Took nothing to add a bracket to the left side stub to reattach the chain guard.


And finally, rather than using the stock bolts that hold the plastic cover on. I went and got some longer versions, cut the heads off, and cross drilled a small hole through the shoulder of the bolts. Screwed the bolts in, with Loctite, and use small hair pins on top to hold it in place. No need for the hair pins on the bottom. The cover is now a quick pull of the pins to remove it.


Give me a holler if you have any questions or need help.

 

[pracydna]

Ok guys, so I managed to get a little bit done on my new CT200U-EX.

The other side of it here.

Also, I kinda modified the frame a bit and was actually able to get the torque converter mounted without risers. Seen here and here.

Now I'm not sure if it's 100% safe or done right or whatever, because I'm just a nooblet when it comes to this stuff, but so far I have over 30 hours riding time without a hiccup. Also, interestingly enough, it's a lot smoother than my neighbor's BT200X with the same engine and torque converter which are mounted using the risers.

All I had to do was cut off a 1" x 1" space off the corner of the mounting plate, then remove the heat shield from the engine and it fit on like a glove. Anyways, I wanted to come on here and show you guys my little project and thank everyone for the world of information you gave me in deciding what to do. I'm really thankful for all of you.

Oh yeah, I am planning on painting the frame as well but for now at least I got rid of that camo. Man how I hated it.