Need help pulling the trigger on a TAV

#21
TAV arrived! Today! So… will this Amazon TAV bolt right on to my ct 200 u? Do I need additional hardware. I’ve read these kits lack the proper hardware for the 212. Will the hardware the TAV comes with work on my hiusun? Haven’t even opened the box yet. Just wanna get my ducks in a row while I’m out and about at work this week. Plan on slapping it on, Saturday. My only day off
 
#22
TAV arrived! Today! So… will this Amazon TAV bolt right on to my ct 200 u? Do I need additional hardware. I’ve read these kits lack the proper hardware for the 212. Will the hardware the TAV comes with work on my hiusun? Haven’t even opened the box yet. Just wanna get my ducks in a row while I’m out and about at work this week. Plan on slapping it on, Saturday. My only day off
You'll have to raise the engine.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#23
Your kit should have the 4 correct metric bolts to bolt the plate to the side cover. It will not have the long (minumum 2") metric bolt that's needed for the drive pulley. Take the bolt that holds the clutch on to the hardware store to match the threads for a longer bolt. When you do the install be careful how tight you go with the long bolt. You don't want to snap it off inside the crankshaft. A mild loctite like the blue 242 could be used.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#24
You need some 1” square tubing to making the riser for the engine.

a 5/16-nf bolt to put the driver on

not sure what year ct200u you have but if you have a 5/8 crank model you will need an adapter (which I don’t recommend) or change it out to a 3/4 crank.
 
#25
Ok sounds good, what is wrong with the adapter? Also, I seen a dude cut the backing plate with a cutting wheel so he didn’t have to raise the engine. Would that work?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#26
No it wouldn't work because the driven pulley would still not clear the frame.

Get the one inch riser in it then test fit to see what you have. And you will need to decide what to do with the chain guard mount. Some chop them off. Others use the forward engine riser. Some may have other ways to do the install with it still in place.

Hent.com sells the forward riser plate. https://hent.com/coleman-baja-mini-bikes/
 
#27
OK. Why I cannot thread in a new longer bolts into the factory crank. It’s like the threads are a little different?. Do not have the 3/4 crank.. After putting the TAV on, I need a longer Bolt to go past the pulley and thread into the Crank. For some reason I cannot match the threads? What am I missing.. it’s fine thread! I’m lost
 
#28
The bolt on the left is the one that came out of the factory crank. The one on the right is the one I want to replace it but the threads are not working what is my problem what am I missing
 

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SAS289

Well-Known Member
#31
Are you 100% sure that's the bolt you removed from the 16mm PTO that held the clutch on?

I don't know what you have there but the threads look a little different.

The difference between the 2 bolts is very obvious. In the picture below the smaller bolt is the clutch bolt for the 16mm shaft. The larger is a 2 1/2" long 5/16x24 bolt that I use on my driver with a 3/4" shaft. These are the 2 unless someone drilled and tapped to a different size. If that's the case try to find a longer bolt with the identical thread size of the bolt you removed.

20220606_175604.jpg

I should note that the 2 1/2" bolt I use would bottom in the crankshaft if I didn't use a flat and lock washer with it.
 
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#32
Left is the factory right is the one I’m trying to put in
8,8 stamped is metric, the 6 hash marks represents grade 8 bolt of SAE thread I'm guessing here as can't see the threads. Take your correct bolt to the "Bolt Place and thread a nut on it and that will tell you what you are looking for. Then find the one on the right in Metric.
Hope that helps
 
#34
Ok so I got the correct hardware now.. 10 mm 2 inch bot into the crank.. I was so excited to ride it. I hoped on gave it full throttle…. And it’s slower than with the jack shaft.. like considerably. Also hesitates.. like only moves at full throttle, what’s the deal? Any suggestions?
 
#35
Really just goes to show you guys how new I am at this stuff. I’ve been playing with this thing for a little while now. Been reading up. Apparently you have to remove the throttle stop in order to get this torque converter to engage. Now she’s ripping lol. So excited thank you guys for all the help. Hope I’m not too much of a pain I’m really new to the stuff I’m loving it though
 
#36
Been riding like crazy lately. Love the TAV. Topped out at 33-35. With throttle screw cut. Kinda funny. I wasn’t gonna cut the screw, it’s necessary for theTAV to engage though. I put it all together after some very minimal troubles, and… I couldn’t go more than lije 5-10 mph. I was @&&#%%#*#. Then I read that it’s a necessity to get the rpm’s up enough to engage the thing. Honestly not many people mentioned that.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#37
Been riding like crazy lately. Love the TAV. Topped out at 33-35. With throttle screw cut. Kinda funny. I wasn’t gonna cut the screw, it’s necessary for theTAV to engage though. I put it all together after some very minimal troubles, and… I couldn’t go more than lije 5-10 mph. I was @&&#%%#*#. Then I read that it’s a necessity to get the rpm’s up enough to engage the thing. Honestly not many people mentioned that.
Glad you got it going.

I don't think that it's always necessary to remove the screw for engagement. Yours is outside the norm. When I was waiting for engine parts for my build I put a completely stock, governed to 3600 RPM 196 and a TAV on my 200U and it engaged and ran up to around 35 MPH at a fairly low RPM. Wasn't anywhere near the governor. haha.

That reminds me.... Do not make any other changes to your throttle linkage until you build the engine for more power and higher RPM. Do not remove the governor because everyone does it or some expert on youtube says to remove it. You should only remove the governor during the engine build when you are going for more power and higher RPM.

When I say engine "build" it will need at the least a billet connecting rod and billet flywheel to support ungoverned engine RPM.
 
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#38
Glad you got it going.

I don't think that it's always necessary to remove the screw for engagement. Yours is outside the norm. When I was waiting for engine parts for my build I put a completely stock, governed to 3600 RPM 196 and a TAV on my 200U and it engaged and ran up to around 35 MPH at a fairly low RPM. Wasn't anywhere near the governor. haha.

That reminds me.... Do not make any other changes to your throttle linkage until you build the engine for more power and higher RPM. Do not remove the governor because everyone does it or some expert on youtube says to remove it. You should only remove the governor during the engine build when you are going for more power and higher RPM.

When I say engine "build" it will need at the least a billet connecting rod and billet flywheel to support ungoverned engine RPM.
Absolutely agree. I know better. I leaned a lot from this site. I’m not touching the governor. I’m surprised yours tan ok without the stock screw out. Mine wouldn’t do more than 10 mph. I read that’s a possibility so that’s why I removed it otherwise without doing a proper rebuild I had no intention of doing anything to the throttle stuff. Mine now goes 33-35 with just a TAV and no screw. Love this thing. I’m wondering if a better TAV would go better, faster? Any differences between brands or are these all the same. I got mine off Amazon. China. My fiancé has an identical twin Bike. Still has the factory jack shaft. Wanna put one on hers. It’s kinda nice having two of them. I think I want another!! I’m getting hooked on these things!!
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#39
I wouldn't know if the better quality TAV, like a Comet, would get you higher road speed or not. If it did it probably wouldn't be much because the gearing is about the same.

All of these stock engines can use a "stage1" kit. It may get you a couple more MPH or so, but will be noisier with a header pipe.
 
#40
I guess I’ve been reading to many reviews. I’m leaning towards the go power sport TAV, but they are considerably more money than Amazon. I think I can adjust the plate (cut it) so I don’t have to put the risers in. Also I have the 16mm crank. If I go with Amazon I’ll have to get an adapter. The go power sports gives u all that. 60,70$ vs 200$ like why? Anyone send me a link to one that has a good rep on Amazon? Coleman ct 200u 16 mm shaft, thanks guys
A true confusion until it's not... speak with Eric Adams at help@OldMiniBikes.com he'll lead you in the right direction based on what you ant out of the bike.... chris
 
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