Need help removing clutch

#1
I'm having trouble removing the max torque 3/4" clutch bolt from the end of the horizontal Shaft on a 6.5 hp 212cc predator engine.
The clutch is mounted w sprocket side facing toward the engine. I try holding a large flat blade screwdriver against the back of clutch through hole but it won't hold in this mount position . Any ideas ?
 
#3
Have ya sprayed any pb blaster or some kind of penetrating lube around it?
I did use some WD 40 . On another thread I read you can try hitting the wrench on the bolt quick with a hammer.
Also , the clutch bolt isn't reversed is it? Not sure...
BTW I introduced myself to Gumpit up in Windber . Great Guy! And cool campsite. Saw the infamous Buckeye hanging out on His parts table. Hope to see you there next Year!
 
#5
So you can't get the bolt out? I smack the wrench with the back of another one sharply but have an impact wrench in 3/8" drive. And no the bolt is not reverse thread so counterclockwise is loose. You'll get it.:thumbsup:
 
#7
mb, Remove the spark plug. Make sure the piston is at the bottom of it's stroke. Insert about two to three feet of soft cotton clothesline rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole making sure to let a few inches hanging out. Now the crankshaft will not turn and you should be able to remove the end bolt without any trouble. Ogy
 
#8
Well, nice to meet ya.:laugh:
Try a more penitrating oil.
You do have the set screws out.
Yes Set screws removed . I just tried the Rubber mallet quick hit on the wrench and it came off!
I have noticed some play between the clutch bell and the snap ring that holds it on. Is this normal? Or should I shim it somehow?
--George:smile:
 
#9
So you can't get the bolt out? I smack the wrench with the back of another one sharply but have an impact wrench in 3/8" drive. And no the bolt is not reverse thread so counterclockwise is loose. You'll get it.:thumbsup:
Thanks Outlaw Ace. I used a rubber mallet and just got it out!
 
#12
It generally works but Ogy's rope trick is the sure way, you could theoretically snap the bolt head if you had it too tight or someone else did. Glad it worked out.:thumbsup:
Ok. Good to know..
BTW Ace, Ogy, What in your opinion is a good Torque Wrench Ft/Lbs setting for that crank bolt?

On a 3/4" shaft is 17 ft lbs sufficient? I read some 6.5hp Clone Specs said 30 ft lbs.
Also do you need both setscrews or just the one on the Key?
Don't like the idea of gouging the shaft with the set screw if not necessary.
 
#13
i usually grab hold of the flywheels somehow. either remove the shroud or sometimes you can just pull off the pull start. on the older briggs with the ratchet paul starter you dont want to tighten the bolt without grabbing the flywheel because it will probrobly bust your rope. in any case a sharp smack of the wrench will usually loosten it. i always put a coat of greese on the shaft and bolt threads before sliding the clutch on. a little play by the snap ring is fine. you just want to make sure the bell isnt going to be rubbing on the weights part. usually its got to be pretty worn out or broken to be doing that though.
 
#15
the set screws wont damage your shaft its good to have them tight. also you want it to be tight on your shaft so its not sloping back and forth. so if you needto you can shim it inside or out so that the bolt is actually tightening the clutch not just keeping it from sliding off.
 
#16
i usually grab hold of the flywheels somehow. either remove the shroud or sometimes you can just pull off the pull start. on the older briggs with the ratchet paul starter you dont want to tighten the bolt without grabbing the flywheel because it will probrobly bust your rope. in any case a sharp smack of the wrench will usually loosten it. i always put a coat of greese on the shaft and bolt threads before sliding the clutch on. a little play by the snap ring is fine. you just want to make sure the bell isnt going to be rubbing on the weights part. usually its got to be pretty worn out or broken to be doing that though.
Ok Thanks Jeep2003 for the setscrew info.
BTW, How do you shim the clutch in the back?
I have the washer between the bolt and shaft, but if you put a washer behind the clutch, what holds it in place?
 
#17
Max torque recommends no set screws. They free float and self align. If you just have to use the set screws use the one on the key. The one on the shaft will damage the shaft. I can provide pix of a Briggs that spun the set screws.
 

TomH

New Member
#18
I did what Max torque recommended. I put two smaller than the shaft washers on the end of the shaft, then the big washer, and then the lock washer and the screw. My clutch can move maybe 1/8, to 3/16" . I haven't had any problems with the chain coming off and I mostly trail ride which puts it to the test. BTW, I tightened the screw with an end wrench and bumped it with my palm, until it was turning the engine with every bump. It hasn't loosened up, and I can get it off without any problems. When I had the clutch tight, I had chain problems every ride unless I was riding on the street. The extra clearance IMO lets the clutch self center to the rear sprocket.
 
#19
Max torque recommends no set screws. They free float and self align. If you just have to use the set screws use the one on the key. The one on the shaft will damage the shaft. I can provide pix of a Briggs that spun the set screws.
I believe I do need the one on the key . Without it, my clutch slides 1/2 inch to 1 inch on the shaft with just the key and end bolt. I do use the 2 small washers and lock washer setup before the fender washer.
 
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