Need help with a HS30...

#1
It’s a Sears engine and cross checks as a HS30 assuming the shroud hasn’t been swapped at some point...

Anyway, It will idle for the most part but unless the high speed jet is completely closed it stalls when I give it any throttle. With the H/S jet closed it will throttle up but runs poorly. Black smoke and I’m pretty sure it’s backfiring. I had it running without the air filter and saw gas spitting out the back of the carb.

I don’t have my compression tester but it pulls like it has plenty of compression. I have the ignition timing set as close to 0.035 BTDC as I can get it. I only messed with the timing because I had a suspicion that it had been messed with prior to my getting it. I haven’t checked valve clearances yet but they are closed at TDC. The carb I have on it is an old Tecumseh off of a HS40 that I cleaned up and I’m pretty sure is good. I’ve had plenty of dirty carbs not idle but never had one have a problem throttling up so I’m thinking I must have screwed something up setting the ignition timing.

thanks for any help you can offer...
 

old shed finds

Well-Known Member
#6
2 things bug me on this..
Your float must be set way high over rich..
And a valve might be slightly sticking or carbon on seats causing the backfire.
Timing sounds like you set it correctly.
 

old shed finds

Well-Known Member
#7
2 things bug me on this..
Your float must be set way high over rich..
And a valve might be slightly sticking or carbon on seats causing the backfire.
Timing sounds like you set it correctly.
And the high speed jet can't be closed that's what's keep it from high speed.
Its shut off because its too rich.
 
#8
Both valves are free, I’ve head the head off.

The float is just below parallel to the carb body. I could try lowering it a touch.

As for the high speed jet, it’s turned in all the way. It does sound like it’s running rich but I’m thinking that’s because it’s not getting a full burn.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#9
Do you mean H30? 3.0 hp (there was never an HS30) Intake on the right side/exhaust on the left/PTO side? If so your timing is off as they were .065 btdc unless you have a 1983 only version, that was the only one that was .035 with points.
 
#10
You are correct, it’s an H30. It does have points (0.020 gap) and I did start by setting it to 0.065 btdc and could barely get it to pop much less run so I reset it to 0.035.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#11
You are correct, it’s an H30. It does have points (0.020 gap) and I did start by setting it to 0.065 btdc and could barely get it to pop much less run so I reset it to 0.035.
Well its obvious that didnt work either, so your probably not doing something correct when setting your points or timing up. You really need to verify which setting it is for the model you have and go from there. While Tecumseh says you can get away with a .005 +or- variance they wanted you to shoot for no more than .003 +or- at most to be within good running spec. so its important to follow the procedure in the book correctly, miss a step or leave something loose that should not be when setting the timing or points, and your timing will be off in the end. For example for every .001 your off at your points setting, your off .005 on your timing.

Good luck with it!
 
#13
Also, I did think to get the serial number...2045B. Assuming the Sears tags have the correct serial numbers I would guess that its either 72 or 82 which would make it a 0.065BTDC engine if I'm not mistaken.(?)
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
Also, I did think to get the serial number...2045B. Assuming the Sears tags have the correct serial numbers I would guess that its either 72 or 82 which would make it a 0.065BTDC engine if I'm not mistaken.(?)
correct, mid February of the year as well. your saying "tag" so I am going to guess that its a pinned on tag located the front of the shroud and not stamped across the top of the shroud? If that is correct then it is a 1970's engine (your case 1972) and there is no question of it using .065 btdc setting unless its bolted to an HS40 or 50 engine.
 
#15
I finally got to mess with it a bit more...

Markus, you are correct. I meant the tag on the shroud.

I set some more time checking the points gap and setting the timing. Got it as close to 0.065” as I could and put a carb from a running engine on it. It wasn’t easy starting. It popped a few times ripping the handle out of my hand forcing me to cuss a bit but I got it running and I could get it to rev with the jets set much closer to “normal” settings. Too soon to call it done but it’s running better.

I noticed a head gasket leak so I got the torque wrench out and next thing you know the threads were stripped. I quit at that point. I’ll have to get a helicoil and go from there...I haven’t given up yet.
 
#17
Yup but I’ve got good gaskets on it so whatever’s going is further in...

it was almost running right on my last go around. Getting it started was the biggest problem. I’ll have better info once I get the head bolt sorted.
 
#19
I only have a pic of setting the timing. I‘ll get a pic of the engine this weekend. It’s at my house in NJ and half my weeks are spent in PA so I don’t have as much time as I’d like to have for it.

CC0E1186-FBFA-4176-8129-B245BDC0919F.jpeg
 
#20
Ran out of time to edit my last post...

Anyway, having already checked the point gap I zero out the dial indicator at tdc, remove all leads from the terminal post on the points (making sure to put the nut back on) and using the continuity setting on my multi meter I set the ignition to 0.065 btdc. Like I said it was running better with the “new” carb I put on it. When the head bolt stripped out my will to give a crap vanished for the night so I moved on to another engine. I hope to get some time with it this weekend...

View attachment 257068
 

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