New Briggs build

#1
Hey everyone, back in the game again. I'm starting a new Briggs build, my first one, I have everything torn apart right now cleaning and degreasing it. I'm planning on doing a mild build on this one. So far I have removed the governor, threaded a 1/4-20 bolt and red lock tighted it in the hole. I measured the piston pop out and I'm .006" below the deck, I'm am going to be shaving the head since it's fairly easy to do. How much should I take off? I was thinking .015-.020".

Also I shaved the eyebrows, ported intake and exhaust.

Parts list is. Billet flywheel, billet rod, duel valve spring kit, new piston rings, billet lifters and a bigger cam ( leaning toward a 94ss cheater cam) and a 22mm mikuni carb.

With that being said, does anyone have suggestions on what else I can do or other parts I should use???

I will post pics of stuff later on....

Thanks
 
#10
I'm trying to upload my pics from my phone. Doesn't work says there to big, Uploaded them to the computer and same thing not wanting to upload What gives ?
 
#11
until I get pictures posted I'll just say what's going n on, As I broke the engine down I noticed that the cylinder bore was scratched somewhat bad, I guess a piece of trash got in between cylinder wall. The piston also has scratches on it, Should it be bored out or can it be honed and re-ringed. I know it's hard to visualize without pics but at the moment I don't have any
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#12
Old school rule is if you can catch your finger nail in the scratch, time fir a boring job! If you are the performance build, you should have it bored and an over sized piston installed. Don't waste money on all the other parts if your block is not in great shape!
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#15
Yikes! next! Move on! That will not hone out! A rebore is in order there, but it may not be worth the expense!
You don't have an I/C block to start with? I/C's have an iron liner instead of the "cool bore", which is the aluminum bore. They are a bit more forgiving and stronger!
 
#16
Yikes! next! Move on! That will not hone out! A rebore is in order there, but it may not be worth the expense!
You don't have an I/C block to start with? I/C's have an iron liner instead of the "cool bore", which is the aluminum bore. They are a bit more forgiving and stronger!
well that just sucks nuggets!!!!

I know for a fact the other 2 are kool bores to, well I guess this is on hold until I can find one. Im factoring in at least another $150 in the build if I have to bore it out.......new piston, rings, cost of boring...... wasnt planning on this:mad2:

this is the piston
piston1.jpg
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#17
Yeah, I'd move on from that piston and block!

Pop those other two open and have a look. The cool bore's will hold up ok, just gotta take care of them!
 
#19
Good news!!!! I cracked open the other 2 motors...... 1 still had fairly deep scratches in the bore, The 2nd and minimal scratches, so I'm Guns use this one. I would rather have the block with the steel sleeve but prob not guna find one local that's in good shape. The only bad thing is that the compression was almost gone, so I'm guessing a honing job and new rings?
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#20
Good news!!!! I cracked open the other 2 motors...... 1 still had fairly deep scratches in the bore, The 2nd and minimal scratches, so I'm Guns use this one. I would rather have the block with the steel sleeve but prob not guna find one local that's in good shape. The only bad thing is that the compression was almost gone, so I'm guessing a honing job and new rings?
Briggs says you don't have to hone them...just throw new rings in. I have always honed them and had no issues though! Make sure you buy the correct rings for the aluminum bore. Might be a good idea to measure the bore and make sure it is not tapered.

Buy new valves while you are shopping. The old valves may not work with the new cam. Typically they will have too much gap!
 
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