New MaxTorque clutch won't fit on stock shaft

#1
I just got a Max Torque clutch (5/8") for the stock DB engine. The stock clutch slides nicely off the crankshaft, but the new clutch won't go on. Even with key removed from clutch, no go. Caliper shows shaft is 5/8" and clutch ID is 5/8".

I tried sanding the crankshaft down, but still no fit after moderate sanding.

Should I keep sanding?
 
#3
Bigger hammer

i just got a max torque clutch (5/8") for the stock db engine. The stock clutch slides nicely off the crankshaft, but the new clutch won't go on. Even with key removed from clutch, no go. Caliper shows shaft is 5/8" and clutch id is 5/8".

I tried sanding the crankshaft down, but still no fit after moderate sanding.

Should i keep sanding?
use a 3# sledge that should do it!!

I bought the same clutch for the same m,it went right on try using a dremel to lightly smooth out the opening for the shaft on the clutch!
 

fonz

New Member
#6
I have some experience here:
#1 Don't screw up the shaft! Mess with the clutch all you want but the master is the shaft and there is no way you are going to take off an even amount for the entire length.
#2 You sure you have all the set screws out of the clutch? Check for burrs the entire surface of the clutch with your fingers.
#3 you need to hone out the bore of the clutch.

#4 the best way is a flapper arbor I made myself and used for 40 years as a Die Maker.
That would be too involved to describe here, but it's the perfect tool.
#5 Next best would be a Dremel Flapper wheel. Look them up on their web site under accessories/sanding tools.
#6 Hone out the I.D. of the clutch using the flapper wheel till it slides on.:grind:

McMaster Carr has small flapper wheels of industrial quality that would be far better the the Dremel product. Check out their web site.
 
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#7
i'm sure the clutch just has some burs. when i got my first Max Torque (pretty sure it was one, might have been a Comet) it didn't want to go on. i made it fit with some taps of a hammer though.

sanding on the shaft isn't a great idea. mess with the clutch because it's much cheaper if you hahahaha something up.
 
#8
no luck

I sanded off the bore on the clutch, and still doesn't fit. lightly tapped it onto shaft with rubber mallet, and it goes on 1/64" at best. Feels like a lot of metal will have to be ground out of the clutch shaft to make this thing fit.

Tried it on a 2nd stock engine shaft, and same thing.

conclusion:
BAD MAX Torque clutch
 
#10
Battery man....listen to the fonz above....the flapper wheel is your best bet....I use them all the time and they work great....get one with a 1/4 inch shaft and chuck it in your drill press or in a pneumatic die grinder....you'll be surprised how much they will take off...Ogy
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#11
really need to mic that thing out. it's to bad you can't clean that up in a lathe. all that banging around on it and grinding :doah: not good at all:grind::doah: looks like somebody at max was sleeping on the job:doah:
goodluck........i hope you can fix it:thumbsup:
 
#12
Just bought a dremel flap wheel, but it's too big to fit in the 5/8" shaft for this clutch. Will keep looking.

Sucks a big one that I may end up buying $30 worth of hardware to get a $24 clutch on the bike.
 
#14
Instead of a flap wheel, I used a dremel sanding drum bit to open up the bore on the clutch just a smidge. Finally got this thing on the stock engine.

I think I get about 10% more torque on the low-end during take-off with the new clutch. 11 teeth instead of 12. Also higher RPM engagement than the stock clutch. Not much improvement, but some.

 
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