New Member-Muskin Dune Cat Project

#21
Day 17 (today)

This drop-bar I welded into the roll cage is intended to be the mount for a head-rest, to keep my kid from getting whiplash when he wrecks this cart. I made a paper pattern of the shape of the headrest, a ¾ plywood version, and an aluminum plate version, and put them all together to create a headrest that will be covered in the same vinyl as the seats- hopefully the pictures explain the plan but if not I’m pretty sure it will look sharp when it’s finished. I went ahead and covered the headrest with an old T-shirt. This gives an idea of what it will look like when I skin it in the vinyl (except orange)













 
#22
That is looking really sharp. You have a really good talent with your hands. The best thing I ever built was a wheelchair for my wife's bunny (made out of pvc and roller blade wheels.) I noticed you made a comment about keeping the steel from rusting. I have a simple solution for you. Some local custom chrome plating shops have an anti-rust or an anti-tarnish bath solution for steel, copper, brass, and nickel. They would charge very little or may even do it as a favor for free. I have it in my shop and I just dip the steel in the solution for 10-15 seconds and let it air dry. Job done. Simple easy. Some mixes can last up to 6 months before rusting. Higher humidity in the area of storage of the steel will cause it to rust sooner. Do not wrap parts in plastic because it holds in the humidity. In my shop it will start rusting after a couple days, but better than in minutes like it had been. :laugh:

I think, I paid around $100-150 for a 5 gallon pail. I did a 3% mix to water and I have tons left over since I made a 50 gallon tank of it, which I used a 55 gallon drum for it. I just used my skill saw and cut the top off of the barrel.

Just food for thought for everyone's next projects.
 
#23
Thanks for the tip- I’m in NM and rust is usually not a real problem here although I don’t like to leave shiny clean steel naked if I can avoid it.

All we did today is paint the head rest parts.







My quick detach paint-booth (My garage does not have a garage door- been replaced with these double doors)


I expect the project (and my post rate) to slow down- right now I’m WOP (waiting on parts) and have hit a wall on go-cart budget.


Right now I’ve ordered and am waiting on the following:


Cheapy Chinese racing seatbelt- should be plenty considering it’s going to be bolted to the fiberglass body which is not exactly race ready- but it should hold him in fine if (when) he rolls the thing.



Orange vinyl seat fabric:



Upholstery tack strip- will be necessary to attach my vinyl to my fiberglass seatback-



Will wait until payday to purchase a clutch and chain.. and paint for the body if I don’t get inpatient and decide to go with spray-can paint. I don’t have a paint sprayer but I do have a compressor, so I may have to get a new tool to finish this job right (Ohh bummer-please don’t throw me in the briar-patch)

????????????????????????????QUESTION:??????????????????????????
Does anyone have templetes for the Dune Cat decals. My fiancé is a professional graphic designer and can build me any kind of decal I want if I can give her a template. I have a few pictures, but do not know the exact size.

??????????????Another Question: CLUTCH GEAR RATIOS ?????????????
Does anyone have any guidance on what clutch to get. My motor has a ¾ shaft, and there are several clutches available with anywhere from 10-14 teeth (#35 chain) I’ve seen others caution that it is important to get a clutch that matches up (ratio wise), or risk burning out your clutch. My drive sprocket on the axel is 84 teeth- I’m told that these clutches all are set for around 1500rpm engagement, does this sound right? And I want to govern to avoid having it rev over 3500 rpm, is this correct? Any help here would be appreciated, I’m not familiar at all with this type of thing- am hoping someone can explain what I should be concerned about. I do understand that different ratios give me more acceleration, versus more top end speed, I’m mainly looking to hit it right down the middle to insure that the motor-clutch-gear is optimized to last.
Also, I assume there is a special tool to press the clutch on- is this something I can do myself, or should I bring the thing into a small motor shop and have them do it? Seems like a bolt down the shaft and some and shims could do it, but figure I’M probably oversimplifying, right? Wrong?

~~~~~~~~~~~WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE INPUT~~~~~~~~~~~~

I’m thinking of this as a paint scheme- anyone want to try and talk me out of it- I’m open to ideas.Not sure which way I’ll go, maybe a modernized version of the original decals, I can have chrome mirror “dune cat” decals made, which would be cool.




 
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#24
Well I’ve been going nuts waiting for parts and supplies to continue this project- I started looking at how the body fit and realized I made a little mistake in my build. The fiberglass body does not fit centered properly. It’s only off a little bit, and it’s a little late in the game to try and bend the rear mounting brackets to center it up. So I’m going to roll with it since you have to look pretty hard at it before you can even tell that the F-glass body is off center.

The real problem is that the rear bracket mounts were inadequate to hold the shell down and the thing needed some mounting points in the front, or at least in the middle. I didn’t want to drill any more holes in this body than I had to, and came up with a good catch-all plan. Also, the body sat too low- (which is what caused the rub points that I had to repair), and also had the body sitting down too close to the 22” rear tires.

So I cut a ¾ plywood to fit in the frame- this lifts the body up enough that it doesn’t rub in front, and gives me a good positive mounting base- I’ll be adding a large foam gasket between the body and the board (My fiancés old yoga mat which she long ago gave up on and told me to keep since I used it as a gun mat for working on guns)




I decided to mount the board-rubber mat-body- and seat with bolts from the bottom up into the seat using threaded female inserts in the seat bottom- Solves all the problems I have at once and allows me to remove the bolts from the bottom to take it all apart- the critical issue will be making sure that I have the right length bolts so that they don’t stick up into the seat more than ¼ of an inch or so.





I also trimmed the back seat board, and mounted it using the same threaded female inserts (1/4x20) J-B welded into the board- the same concerns apply that I use the right length of bolts so they don’t stick out into the seat-





I trimmed and attached all of my foam elements, and stretched some old fabric over them to get a feel for how the job of covering them in vinyl is going to go and how they’ll look.




Then a sat around and looked at it alot and tried to think of something I could do on the project while I waited on parts. I came up with a cool side project- to follow.......
 
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#25
So Like I said- I was kinda in killing-time mode. I had been thinking of how to make some kind of cool looking air induction cowl for the air cleaner. There may be some benefit to inducing cooler fresh air instead of the hot air of the motor, maybe not- but the truth is, this thing is primarily to look cool and “racy”.

I thought for sure there would be someone on this forum who hadn’t thought of doing this type of thing who might get inspired- and I realized there are a gillion things that they could custom fabricate using this method for their OldMiniBikes projects.

So I had some foam blocks (for just this type of project). FYI- there are two types of foam, this is not Styrofoam, do not use Styrofoam for this type of project, as fiberglass resin will melt it and then you’ve got a big melted mess. This stuff is the type used for stabbing fake flowers into- I forget what it’s called. I glued these things into a larger block using spray adhesive- Which worked to keep them stuck together, but just barely.



Then I carved them into the shape I had envisioned- In retrospect, I wish I would have been more imaginative in the shape of this thing, but the simpler the design, the easier to build. This is very delicate work as this foam is easy to crush or scar-



Then I fiberglassed the heck out of it- For something like this, you want to make sure that you’ll have at least 3 but more like 4-5 layers of fiberglass cloth to make sure the thing is hard and rigid and tough when you’re finished. In this case, it took 3 separate batches of resin- I.E. 3 coats- pre-cut the fiberglass cloth to fit different sections of your project- overlapping each other, apply them one at a time as long as you have enough resin to wet them. Then you let it dry up and start over. Unless you are some kind of master fiberglasser (which I am not) this thing will be bumpy and ugly when you’re done. Try to grind off the largest of bumps and do a little smoothing between layers- but be careful not to grind out the fiberglass cloth that is giving your widget it’s shape and strength. Also, make sure you make your mold just a little bigger than what you want- you can trim the edges back to your desired size, after the things built.



Once the thing was ridged, and dried, I went ahead and carved out all the foam- simple, like a 5 minute project. I used fiberglass filler to cover the entire thing in a thin (smoothish) layer- They make a short fiber filler that would be much easier and smoother, but I did not have any at the moment. I have done this type of thing professionally a few decades ago, so It may look a little easier than it is- it’s like herding cats to get all of this stuff covered and laid down smooth before it starts to harden (gel) up, which happens pretty quick. Don’t worry, anyone can do this. Don’t expect to get a smooth surface without at least one more coat of this stuff. The key is to sand it off until you start sanding down into the fiberglass cloth, and then you stop and lay another coat- repeat if necessary.








I made an internal bracket out of aluminum plate and J-B Welded it in. Noticed I really roughed up the aluminum where the J-B weld attached it, giving it lots of rough surfaces in several planes to hold on to. I also roughed up the inside of the fiberglass as well. I know it’s attached pretty good because I accidently tripped on the stairs and crash tested it.



Once I got this thing mostly smooth, I used primer and spot filler (sand and repeat until you run out of flaws or patience)- then I painted it with a hammered texture metallic silver paint, but it could have been any paint as the thing was as smooth as glass when I was done. I cut a piece of scotchbright to fit inside and painted it silver too- I’ll probably do something different eventually.




I wanted smooth flat surfaces to make it easy, but in hindsight, I wish I had incorporated the curves of the dune cat body more- but either way, I think it looks pretty cool and dune buggy-y.





 
#26
That's looking really good, and thanks for all the "how-to" tips. I know for sure I'll be taking advantage of some of the fiberglassing ones next time I do some. My previous attempts are a little sad....

As far as your clutch questions.... if you're using a 5 or 6 hp motor I wouldn't worry about it too much. Since the buggy is going to be heavier than a bike I might err towards more torque (fewer teeth). Mostly the problems with clutches come up when people start with a lot of mods, or just swap engines to something bigger.

Installing a clutch is a breeze. Gear puller to remove the old one (probably not relevant in your case) and then use a piece of wood as a buffer and hammer the new one on. Almost all of them can go chain-inward or chain-outward, so do whatever lines the chain up better. Then you typically screw a bolt into the end of the crankshaft to keep it from vibrating off and you're good to go. If the engine spins on you try an impact wrench, or if you don't have one, you can always pull the spark plug and fill the cylinder with some rope, then use a normal wrench.

As far as paint... I think it's a little too orange. Some contrast would do a lot for it. Maybe, like that jet, sort of a black-over-orange look?
 
#27
Hey thanks! Mindhacker, I was wondering if anyone was going to step in on my questions.

I agree, I 've hit a plateau with the orange- (especially after you see the orange seats) I'm thinking chromey silver, or maybe even some of that chrome vinyl wrap- I'm kind of stuck on the aircraft- shark jaw theme and trying to think up something to replace it in my head. But I'm not in a hurry for paint as there are plenty of other chores to do yet.
 
#28
So my vinyl came in and I skinned the seat. The headrest and vertical (back) seat look better than the pictures indicate, but the bottom (Butt) seat I am not happy with. I have extra fabric, and will probably re-do that seat eventually (if not all of them). To do them Class-A properly I will need to do some sewing, I have a sewing machine so that makes a good excuse to learn how to use it.










I worked over 30 hours this weekend, so I’ve got lots of time off this week to work on the cart- I still have not ordered my clutch and chain, so I’ll probably work on the fiberglass and get it prepped to paint- If anyone has any ideas on the paint scheme- now is the time to chime in- Save me from myself- I’m still stuck on an aircraft-shark-jaw theme. Right now I’m thinking of painting the inside of the cockpit bucket orange, and the outside (fenders) silver. I had toyed with some chrome spray paint. It does not look chrome, but I do like the shiney silver look. Problem is the finish is not great- it scratches very easy, and picks up fingerprints. I tried some clear coat, but that melts the paint (even after it is dried) and turned it into an ugly grey color. So far the best silver I can find in spray paint is the hammered metal silver paint I used on the motor- and it takes a clear coat that dries hard and is pretty scratch resistant. My go-kart budget does not allow for me to purchase a sprayer and buy real paint, and I’m too impatient to wait until it does unless someone can talk me out of using spray paint. I’m pretty handy with paint, and feel I can use rattle-can paint to pretty good effect.
 
#32
Yeah, the seat looks tacky and I put too much work into the thing already to let something like the seat go half-azzed. Plus, I kinda jumped the gun as the seatbelt is going to be attached to the bottom of the seat so that it will be bolted to the frame. Major seat mods to happen, eventually.

In the meantime, I’ve got another small project that I’m going to share in (the usual way-too-much) detail as I think it might be useful to some OldMiniBikes-ers. homemade, removable, fully-adjustable, foot pedals.

The pedals on the cart when I got it were basically just bent rusty rods. I had to cut them with a sawzall to get them out.



I was determined that the new pedals could be removed, repaired, replaced, adjusted etc. I scratch built the hinges using bolts and couplers. I also made male/female “Jump Couplers”, this allows me to attach the pedals to the hinges much easier and gives me a lot of freedom of adjustment in the pedals. These middle “jump couplers” can be replaced with longer angled couplers if need be to adjust the pedals further for smaller (or bigger) riders.



For the pedals themselves, I took a piece of steel rod and bent both ends using the exact same method out on my gate hinge. The bends turned out pretty well identical. I cut the ends of the bends off using a straight edge to eyeball an angle.



The key to doing this right: I created a jig to hold the bends up into my ¼x20 threaded coupler, and welded them. Both sides turned out pretty close to identical.



I have a local sign-making business that sells me aluminum sign blanks of different sizes and gauge on the cheap- I keep lots if them around as they are very handy. I band-sawed some heavy gauge aluminum plate into pedal faces. I cleaned them up on the belt sander, and then polished them on the wheel.



I then measured the length and angle of the pedals using a couple of squares bolted together. I measured from the installed “Jump Coupler” to where my kid’s foot would go.



I welded the pedals and cleaned them up on the belt sander- Since these are pretty highly visible parts, I ultimately used primer and spot putty on my welds to make them look pretty- (as seen in the last 3 pics.)



Test fit- I had measured my kid’s legs earlier and marked his leg length with the orange masking tape. After he went to school I could used his empty shoes to measure the length and angle of the pedals.



I put some of that non-slip tread tape on the pedals.



Ta-Da!- foot pedals.





 
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#35
WOW,What can't you do?,Very impressive fabrication work,
I appreciate the compliment- (My hobby has always been collecting hobbies, and I've gotten pretty skilled at getting skilled :facepalm: ) But really my point in posting all these kinda "How-To" details is to show that any shlub with the right tools and half a garage can do it. I just thought that there would be someone on OldMiniBikes who hadn't thought of doing it my way.
 
#36
That is some very impressive work. I really like the "how to" on the fiberglass work. I'm getting knee deep in a Alsport 3 wheeler body shortly and will be paying close attention to all your posts as reference! Thank you.
As for your color,I have to agree,,it's getting to be a lot of orange.Maybe breaking it up some silver will be good,,or even white,,say a white GT stripe? or carrying your silver over a good portion of the front clip,then fade to orange? Who knows?? It's still lightyears ahead of what ya started with,,,keep up the good work!:grind:
 
#38
Well- I painted this thing Yesterday- It was a 14 hour series of disaster after disaster after disaster. This morning I'm looking at it and Heck, It looks pretty decent.

I'll post some pics when I get home from work later.
 
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