new sbh engine build.

[delray]

yep you might have to take little off with the 255 and 275, it's very little material or none and should not effect anything. bigger cams it's lot more.
but then again you really can't go to big on a small block or the valve could smack the head. 275 isky cam is a bad ass cam. it may only have 275 lift ,but the duration will make up for it all day. besides who want's to spin a small block more then 8500 rpm's. there is a point a guy can go over on these little engines and have big problems. like I said earlier you can smack the head with to much lift and another big problem is the cam gear on the crank can easily break at those rpm's. that would have to be made out of a good steel material and be keyway in also. I have also found that gear with the correct pitch and number of teeth made out of good material in the pass. the only thing a guy would have to do is bore it to the correct size and keyway it correct(timing).

 

[anthonyg9819]

i am trying to be practical and learn from each one of these i build. money is also a factor. if i do a real hot motor i will need a beefier frame. probably something like o rupp or similar with shocks front and rear. that won't happen for a while. again money. if i do start the project it will be motor first. anthony.

 

[anthonyg9819]

markus. this is the the new 1/32 over exhaust valve. it measures the same as the last two i bought. also my new old stock ballbearing small taper crank. it came with a seal. dyno cam sent my reground hs50 now a 245 grind with 18 lb animal springs aluminum keepers and split locks. it was supposed to be hear today and i get an email from ups. delay do to sorting mistake. i call them up and they can't even tell me witch direction it went. figures.

 

[anthonyg9819]

my two new pan american piloted guide reamers 1/32 over exhaust valve and neway 9/32+2 cutter pilot worked real nice. the reamers went in so strait the old seat was almost perfectly concentric. just four turns by hand very light pressur no t handle almost no metal removed yealded these results. factory stock intake and new exhaust. no lapping. im waiting for my clover 280 grit lapping compound to come. cut electronic ignition posts of to clear round blower cover. cleaned up the ports. block work just about done. i can't go any further til the cam and springs retainers and keepers come. well iv got my 0.004 valve clearance. hope that exhaust valve don't hang up. anthony.

 

[markus]

Looks good, thanks for the measurement on the OS, I'll see how/if My Briggs reamer will cut through the tec guide on that junk block and what kind of ID it leaves when the deed is done, as long as we can find all the parts to start rebuilding it (not my engine, so its boxed up in limbo till he sends mea another care packages of parts).

Yea, thats like a nice little bonus when the seal comes with the cranks, Think I got one with the clip as well one time, You would have thought I just got a red rider BB Gun when I opened the box

As an FYI there is no need to cut off the electronic ignition mount posts, they are made to clear the old shrouds.

 

[anthonyg9819]

about those posts. i had the cover right there to check, because i was tapping the two bosses for the shroud baffle they did not come tapped. they give you two self threading bolts and a little note. any way i dont like the way the posts look and with the small round cover i couldn't fit electronic ignition. anthony.

 

[anthonyg9819]

just finished my new hs50. it started second pull on choke both needles set at 1-1/2 turns out. it sat at idle with no protest. i have never seen one of these do that. the small h35 carb i tested it with must have ben about right for that to hapen. my pleasure was short lived. i held it down onto the board using a contractor glove to not get burnt or shocked hit the throttle and it spun up instantly and stoped. i figured it was the flywheel key took it apart and the key sheared. put it back together started it back up let it warm up at idle then adjusted the needles just to get the stumble between low and hight speed transition out. this is a brand new engine. all i used from the new sbh was the block piston and intake valve. it has a fresh ground dyno 245 and new lifters. the spec sheet said 0.006 intake and exhaust. so its exactly at there spec. i thought the 18 lb springs might tighten the lash but i checked it again after assembly and it was still good. well i am letting the thing cool down so i can put the good carb i built on.i wanted to eliminate the possibility of a faulty carb at first start. i assembled it with that red permatex on the cam and crank but used oil on rings cylinder wall and valve guides. can someone tell me what is the break-in period for the cam before i start it back up. anthony.

 

[anthonyg9819]