Newbie with some basic questions.

P

Paul Y

New Member
#1
#1
Gentlemen,

I have been lurking for the past few days after finding my way here from the HAMB.

Now, please treat me gently but could someone point me in the direction of Briggs & Stratton 101?

My son and I are in the process of building kart/rod using a 5hp B & S motor from a leaf blower that came with our house.

After checking for spark and pouring a little fuel down the carb it fired right up and ran quite nicely, quite a surprise as we have lived here for 10 years and have never used the blower!

What is needed to make this a suitable engine for use in our project?

I have read about using Tillotson carbs, Robertson kart pipes and K&N filters along with what sounds like all sorts of Voodoo to someone more used to 97's open headers and scoops....

Is there an easy way to tell if it has a 3/4 shaft or is it just a case of measuring it? Right now it has a huge fan attached to the shaft.

Can I attach a throttle cable to the existing carb? It has a slide throttle hare and tortoise type set up at this time.

The good news is that from a quick look over it doesnt seem as if it has that much use, the plug was the right colour when I took it out and from looking into the cylinder there is no heavy build up of carbon on the top of the piston.

Compression is good as is the spark.

An engine is an engine but they all have their little quips and foibles, as our first father and son project I want to ensure that Juniors interest is maintained by not making any stupid Newbie mistakes.

Many thanks

P.:biggrin:
 
G

GRE

New Member
#2
#2
well right off the bat, if you want us to know the motor. is there a model #or tag on it at all. More that likely if it is within 20 years old it is a 3/4 crank. If you are only worried about going a certain speed. you can hook up a throttle cable. to the throttle shaft. I you start dumping modified parts into it, stock they are not designed for the rpm you will turn with a tillotson, ehuast, and so on. plus a tilly will dump alot of fuel iton it, and the block is not tuned for it.
I have experienc from racing karts, i dont know all the trick but the basics to make it run like heck.
1st question, how far do you want to go.

clutch and everything like that is easy.
 
P

Paul Y

New Member
#3
#3
Thanks for the speedy reply.

I will get the model number in the morning (in the UK where it is 00.20...) which I really should have got before posting. Apologies.

As for how far do we want to go...... As far as possible on a modest budget without blowing the thing up!

Will post up the engine number am to help with your suggestions.

Thanks again,

P.
 
Motra

Motra

Active Member
#5
#5
Most of those blowers have a 1 inch crank but it might be a 3/4 inch. That large impeller can be very difficult to remove sometimes too.
 
P

Paul Y

New Member
#6
#6
Good morning Gentlemen,

I have the following coding from the blower motor.

Model 130212 - so that makes it a 5hP

Type 3245

Code 9102207

P.
 
B

beau5278

New Member
#7
#7
I see your in GB so I'm not sure what kind of parts you'll find over there,there are a lot of suppliers selling 5hp go fast parts over here but shipping will probably get expensive.If you want to start with what you have and work up from there,I would just mill the head and put a Tillotson carb,intake of your choosing and a straight pipe on it,you can make the pipe,most are in the 1in range and anywhere from 12-15 or 16in long,if you get into the longer pipes,it's best to run a brace to one of the head bolts,to support the pipe some.The stock piston and rod will serve your purpose for awhile until you want to go faster,I've run stock parts on engines up to about 7000rpm without much trouble,the stock oil slinger is the weakest link,so it would be a good idea to put an aftermarket oil slinger in it unless you feel like changing them about once a week.
 
P

Paul Y

New Member
#8
#8
Beau,

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I will have to invest in a workshop manual as a starting point then as I have no idea where the oil slinger is!

How much is it worth skimming the head by? 10thou or more?

My initial thoughts are to make an exhaust, and add a carb to it. This is more in the name of ease as, looking at the stock carb, rigging up a throttle linkage is going to prove to be challenging, as it the placement of the fuel tank.

For a fairly 'stock' motor which is the best carb to use? I have read a number of opinions about sticking to a 22-24mm carb which seems like sound advice on something with quite small valves.

I have to say that this project is becoming quite addictive having pushed my full size wheels to the back of the garage!

Any and all advice greatly accepted and appreciated.

Thanks again.

P.
 
P

Paul Y

New Member
#10
#10
Good afternoon Gentlemen.

Now have stripped the leaf blower down to extract our powerplant and, as Motra noted it is indeed a 1" shaft.

Good news is that the impeller was very easy to remove so at least that was something!

In regards for a clutch, are there any recommendations for a 1" variety? As most people run a 3/4" crank the choice is slightly limited. As I am probably going to have one shipped over to me want to make sure that I get it right first time.

Many thanks

P:biggrin:
 
B

beau5278

New Member
#11
#11
That 1in shaft might be a problem,Max Torque makes a decent clutch but I'm pretty sure they only have 5/8in and 3/4in hubs.Noram makes a much better clutch,they're pretty much bulletproof but again,I'm not sure about about a 1in hub although I did pick up a clutch a few weeks ago that looks a lot like a Noram with a 1in hub but it has a vbelt pulley on it.

Sorry I didn't get back to you about your other question,.010 is pretty mild as far as shaving a 5hp B&S head goes,you can cut the whole gasket surface off,usually around .030 or .040 and install a gasket as thin as .030,which is less than half the thickness of stock and not have any issues with valve clearance or anything until you start putting in high lift cams and such.That said your also putting more strain on stock parts by putting the RPMs in a range that gets hairy with stock parts.You would probably be safer to stay with .010-.020,see where that takes you an then decide what you want from there.
 
G

GRE

New Member
#12
#12
The general mods you would like to do for durability are important cause as you turn more rpm, with the factory valve springs, and such the lifters are gonna bottom out on the bore. the engine is not gonna run correctly cause of valve float at high rpm. And with a stock rod, you could get 2 years out of it, or 2 days. I dont mean to detur you, it is just that the engine from briggs is not designed to turn more that 3800 rpm without the proper mods. you might even be able to buy a machined block for around 200 or less. which means the ports are done, steel sleeve, they can get you a proper rod. Is the motor you have a steel sleeve, or a aluminum bore. Put a magnet on the bore, and see if it sticks. If it sticks good, doesnt just mean harder to get parts. Just tring to save you money, or pain and suffering in the long run.
 
P

Paul Y

New Member
#13
#13
Gents,

Thank you very much for the advice.

As the engine was in effect 'free' we are going to stick a carb and exhaust on it and see what happens!

GRE, passed the magnet test so we have a steel bore!

Think it might be time to start a new thread titled...

What are the basic, inexpensive mods that you MUST carry out of a Briggs?

P.
 
milo raptors

milo raptors

New Member
#14
#14
some more popular ones are k& n air filter tilly carb header and bilet rod bye the way a titan star clutch at smokin joe race store is made for 1 inch shaft
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top