Ohh I’m kind of exited Japanese 2 stroke??
- Thread starter Thepaetsguy
- Start date
Back to our normal programming I have to make some slightly shorter bolts that all match.
I have to mill the 17mm bearing out to fit over the very sloppy 18mm but not 17mm output. Then I can trace the bearing and mill a hole in the case for it to go through so it sets the end play.
Then I can start looking for a sprocket to fit to the output.
If I put this transmission on say an old jap bike I thought maybe I could retro a new mountain bike rear wheel onto an older jap bicycle.
So the sprocket off the transmissions output goes to the 5 sprockets on the back mountain bike wheel. retrofit the cable shifter and I would have first/second on the manual transmission and say 5 speeds on the cable transmission.
I have to mill the 17mm bearing out to fit over the very sloppy 18mm but not 17mm output. Then I can trace the bearing and mill a hole in the case for it to go through so it sets the end play.
Then I can start looking for a sprocket to fit to the output.
If I put this transmission on say an old jap bike I thought maybe I could retro a new mountain bike rear wheel onto an older jap bicycle.
So the sprocket off the transmissions output goes to the 5 sprockets on the back mountain bike wheel. retrofit the cable shifter and I would have first/second on the manual transmission and say 5 speeds on the cable transmission.
I would think a 5- or 8-speed internally geared bicycle hub would be a good choice.
https://www.performancebike.com/shi...ke-rear-hub-silver-36h-isgc60018vasa/p1298063
https://www.performancebike.com/shi...ke-rear-hub-silver-36h-isgc60018vasa/p1298063
In a big way i have done the wrong thing. In a small way I have done the right thing.
The output shaft bushing in the aluminum side cover measured 17.8 and the output shaft itself measured 17.4 So this caused a TON of slop on the output. This is why I’m trying to upgrade to a bearing steel sidecover so everything is ROCK SOLID.
I cannot mill out hardened bearings. So I have very very slowly filed off about 4mm from the output shaft so it fits the bearing.
If it turns out it powered something stupid rare like a prototype motorcycle and I milled 4mm of slop into 8mm of slop when they go to stick the aluminum sidecover back on I’m gonna feel kind of stupid.
The only thing that makes me feel at ease about it is if it powered something rare then it wouldn’t be impossible to have a bushing made for the aluminum sidecover that is just 8mm smaller to support everything.
I want to find or make a steel reduced pipe with the threads on the end to stick over the locking collar so whatever it powered would directly bolt back it would just have the upgraded bearing.
The output shaft bushing in the aluminum side cover measured 17.8 and the output shaft itself measured 17.4 So this caused a TON of slop on the output. This is why I’m trying to upgrade to a bearing steel sidecover so everything is ROCK SOLID.
I cannot mill out hardened bearings. So I have very very slowly filed off about 4mm from the output shaft so it fits the bearing.
If it turns out it powered something stupid rare like a prototype motorcycle and I milled 4mm of slop into 8mm of slop when they go to stick the aluminum sidecover back on I’m gonna feel kind of stupid.
The only thing that makes me feel at ease about it is if it powered something rare then it wouldn’t be impossible to have a bushing made for the aluminum sidecover that is just 8mm smaller to support everything.
I want to find or make a steel reduced pipe with the threads on the end to stick over the locking collar so whatever it powered would directly bolt back it would just have the upgraded bearing.
Got the bearing slip fit onto the output. I need a 17mm bushing that goes inside of the case up against the steel side cover and the gear so the gear cannot slip back and forth and the shaft cannot either.
And I’m still waiting on the locking collar. That is all I need to finish this project up. Then I can grind the plate to shape and paint it.
And I’m still waiting on the locking collar. That is all I need to finish this project up. Then I can grind the plate to shape and paint it.
Last night I had a OHH that’s how that works moment! I have the original shift lever bracket that sets how far the clutch lever goes forward/backward. The springloaded tensioner is still present it needs cleaned up.
I’m so happy I found out I have this bracket now I don’t have to make something out of welded bolts!
I’m so happy I found out I have this bracket now I don’t have to make something out of welded bolts!
Taking breaks on some projects and working on others due to the parts god shining down on me I was driving down the street and got two snowblowers for free out of the trash.
One small Chinese two stroke snowblower and also a massive industrial tecumseh 9hp snowblower.
The carburetor off the small junk one fit the two stroke engine after slightly widening the mounting holes. PERFECT!
One small Chinese two stroke snowblower and also a massive industrial tecumseh 9hp snowblower.
The carburetor off the small junk one fit the two stroke engine after slightly widening the mounting holes. PERFECT!
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It worked! The problem I thought was going to end this whole deal just ended up not being a problem at all?
I received the locking collar and clamped the bearing inside of it and placed it against the sidecover. It was as if the the output was slightly bent? The locking collar would slightly lift off the sidecover as the output was spun.
I welded it solid expecting the output to lock up but it just spins as normal? I was 100% sure it would lock up as it was then welded solid and couldn’t lift the collar off the plate?
It just worked the transmission spins shifts no binding issues it works as it did. The output is rock solid ready for a milled out c-sprocket.
Might even hit it with a bit of paint?
I received the locking collar and clamped the bearing inside of it and placed it against the sidecover. It was as if the the output was slightly bent? The locking collar would slightly lift off the sidecover as the output was spun.
I welded it solid expecting the output to lock up but it just spins as normal? I was 100% sure it would lock up as it was then welded solid and couldn’t lift the collar off the plate?
It just worked the transmission spins shifts no binding issues it works as it did. The output is rock solid ready for a milled out c-sprocket.
Might even hit it with a bit of paint?
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The output shaft is bent.
I think that is why the bushing for the output in the original aluminum sidecover is so sloppy.
My sidecover worked amazing and everything is rock solid but if i used a c-sprocket the chain would tension/loosen as it spins.
I would like to stick this all on a bicycle and I’m now kicking around ideas of a belt drive as I think that would be plenty forgiving enough with the pulley spinning a bit out of round.
I think that is why the bushing for the output in the original aluminum sidecover is so sloppy.
My sidecover worked amazing and everything is rock solid but if i used a c-sprocket the chain would tension/loosen as it spins.
I would like to stick this all on a bicycle and I’m now kicking around ideas of a belt drive as I think that would be plenty forgiving enough with the pulley spinning a bit out of round.
Again doing things most likely the wrong way but I won’t know if it’s feasible at all if I don‘t try. I shimmed and laid a small tac weld on a 5/8 12t c-sprocket and was able to line it up well.
Dare I say good enough if I run a tensioner it would even hold a chain.
The work isn‘t done though as I still need back inside this gearbox to add a shim Inside the case.
But what I learned today is that yes I’ll be cutting this lightly tacked sprocket that is lined up very well back off. It was not hard to align it in the first time. (I bet I can do it again) I have zero idea of the gear ratio or if a 12t sprocket is even acceptable. But I’m getting ever so closer to making this able to power chain driven stuff.
Dare I say good enough if I run a tensioner it would even hold a chain.
The work isn‘t done though as I still need back inside this gearbox to add a shim Inside the case.
But what I learned today is that yes I’ll be cutting this lightly tacked sprocket that is lined up very well back off. It was not hard to align it in the first time. (I bet I can do it again) I have zero idea of the gear ratio or if a 12t sprocket is even acceptable. But I’m getting ever so closer to making this able to power chain driven stuff.
Ok installed a shim and again lining that sprocket up was easy. I can pour in oil from the top no problem.
I’m reconfiguring the whole kart this engine and transmission is bolted to. Once it’s all set up it will be ready to set down in the middle of a mini bike chassis easy work.
With the engine running and the transmission having a solid output with a sprocket it’s on the path to being more usable then it was.
I’m reconfiguring the whole kart this engine and transmission is bolted to. Once it’s all set up it will be ready to set down in the middle of a mini bike chassis easy work.
With the engine running and the transmission having a solid output with a sprocket it’s on the path to being more usable then it was.