Ohh I’m kind of exited Japanese 2 stroke??
- Thread starter Thepaetsguy
- Start date
I will say this if any real load is put on this transmission it would rip apart.
Don’t mind the ripped cardboard gasket I intended to fill it with oil but never got to it.
It’s just a bunch of stacked bushings and one single bearing. I have a thick steel plate. I really wonder with a drillpress grinder and a welder if I could make a steel plate sidecover with bearings instead of the aluminum stock bushing sidecover. Clamp the part circled in red into a locking collar and weld the locking collar to the steel plate. Weld a small collar to to the plate that holds the shift fork circled in blue. Drill a big hole the output goes out through.
Don’t mind the ripped cardboard gasket I intended to fill it with oil but never got to it.
It’s just a bunch of stacked bushings and one single bearing. I have a thick steel plate. I really wonder with a drillpress grinder and a welder if I could make a steel plate sidecover with bearings instead of the aluminum stock bushing sidecover. Clamp the part circled in red into a locking collar and weld the locking collar to the steel plate. Weld a small collar to to the plate that holds the shift fork circled in blue. Drill a big hole the output goes out through.
Ok so making a steel plate bearing sidecover. I have to cut a steel plate to the rough shape of the aluminum sidecover. I will need to drill 6 holes in the steel plate so it bolts up to the transmission.
Now we focus on that piece on the sidecover circled in blue in the first picture and the two red lines in the second picture.
Once the steel plate is ground to shape with 6 holes drilled in it and bolted to the transmission all I have to do I grind a square notch into the steel plate at the red lines to expose the hole for the shift fork rod. Slip a nut over it and weld the nut to the steel plate. When done it will directly resemble the piece circled in blue.
It’s all very very easy to do stuff UNTIL I get to drilling out the holes for both the gears.
Now we focus on that piece on the sidecover circled in blue in the first picture and the two red lines in the second picture.
Once the steel plate is ground to shape with 6 holes drilled in it and bolted to the transmission all I have to do I grind a square notch into the steel plate at the red lines to expose the hole for the shift fork rod. Slip a nut over it and weld the nut to the steel plate. When done it will directly resemble the piece circled in blue.
It’s all very very easy to do stuff UNTIL I get to drilling out the holes for both the gears.
Eureka!! I can lay The aluminum plate flat against the steel plate and bolt them together with 6 bolts and the shift fork rod holder nut welded to the plate. Then just drill straight down the middle of each gear hole that’s already centered on the aluminum plate straight into the steel plate!
I‘ll get some letter punches and start stamping stuff PA co. Apocalypse manufacturing
I‘ll get some letter punches and start stamping stuff PA co. Apocalypse manufacturing
Bare with me I’m building it slowly in my head.
So the shift fork rod rides in two places in the actual case the sidecover just has a small “cap” to keep the shift fork rod from wiggling out. This is why making the cap on the steel plate for the shift fork rod will be so easy.
Next I can clamp the 35mm OD bearing into the locking collar and use a big circular hole bit to cut a roughly 40mm hole in the steel plate. I can adjust the gear endplay by clamping the locking collar around the middle of the bearing or leaving the bearing slightly proud of either side of the collar. The bearings inner race butting up against the end of the small output that currently buts up against a bushing.
THEN I CAN INSTALL THE SHIFT FORK ITSELF! The shift fork rod is centered by the case and capped by the sidecover. The shift fork itself WILL NOT slip over the gear selector collar that rides on the main gear unless the gear is centered inside of the case right/left AND THEN up/down play is set by tension against the bottom of the shift fork!
The very last bearing/collar is set by setting the lash between the gears with a piece of paper. Stick one sheet between the gears press them together tight with the last gear roughly straight as I can get it and tac weld the collar. Roll out the piece of paper.
So the shift fork rod rides in two places in the actual case the sidecover just has a small “cap” to keep the shift fork rod from wiggling out. This is why making the cap on the steel plate for the shift fork rod will be so easy.
Next I can clamp the 35mm OD bearing into the locking collar and use a big circular hole bit to cut a roughly 40mm hole in the steel plate. I can adjust the gear endplay by clamping the locking collar around the middle of the bearing or leaving the bearing slightly proud of either side of the collar. The bearings inner race butting up against the end of the small output that currently buts up against a bushing.
THEN I CAN INSTALL THE SHIFT FORK ITSELF! The shift fork rod is centered by the case and capped by the sidecover. The shift fork itself WILL NOT slip over the gear selector collar that rides on the main gear unless the gear is centered inside of the case right/left AND THEN up/down play is set by tension against the bottom of the shift fork!
The very last bearing/collar is set by setting the lash between the gears with a piece of paper. Stick one sheet between the gears press them together tight with the last gear roughly straight as I can get it and tac weld the collar. Roll out the piece of paper.
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16mm bearing fit like it was made for it.
I’m heading out later to pick through the locals scrap piles I’m sure I can find a steel plate before I have to go buy one from the lumber yard.
35mm inner diameter locking collar has an OD of 57mm and again building it in my head I already know two 57mm locking collars are not gonna fit side by side welded to the steel plate.
areas of each the locking collar will need ground down back to something like 42mm or as far as discretion let’s me grind. Once the locking collar is ground down this could expose part of the hole drilled for the bearing to go through. No matter.
I’m heading out later to pick through the locals scrap piles I’m sure I can find a steel plate before I have to go buy one from the lumber yard.
35mm inner diameter locking collar has an OD of 57mm and again building it in my head I already know two 57mm locking collars are not gonna fit side by side welded to the steel plate.
areas of each the locking collar will need ground down back to something like 42mm or as far as discretion let’s me grind. Once the locking collar is ground down this could expose part of the hole drilled for the bearing to go through. No matter.
