Old Tecumseh engine oil, Synthetic or regular?
- Thread starter copyman
- Start date
Cross Keys Airport? I live less than 15 minutes from there in Erial. Leaded gas is not the best choice for living beings. Yes, the engine will like it but our kids can do without additional lead in their bodies. My solution is expensive but is readily available. Head over to Tractor Supply on Berlin Cross Keys Road and get you some of this:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...cle-small-engine-fuel-1-gal-6201?cm_vc=-10005
Yes, $22/gallon is insane, however my high compression Predator loves the stuff. It smells good and the exhaust smells even better. My bike is a street cruiser and goes on short blasts around the neighborhood. A gallon lasts me a year. If I rode four times as much it would still be reasonable. This fuel is designed for small engines and contains no ethanol or detergents. Also, it has a 2-year shelf life in the can and 1-year in the tank. Of course this is probably not the optimal solution for someone who rides a lot. But the racing fuel exhaust smell....oh yeah!
-Ray
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...cle-small-engine-fuel-1-gal-6201?cm_vc=-10005
Yes, $22/gallon is insane, however my high compression Predator loves the stuff. It smells good and the exhaust smells even better. My bike is a street cruiser and goes on short blasts around the neighborhood. A gallon lasts me a year. If I rode four times as much it would still be reasonable. This fuel is designed for small engines and contains no ethanol or detergents. Also, it has a 2-year shelf life in the can and 1-year in the tank. Of course this is probably not the optimal solution for someone who rides a lot. But the racing fuel exhaust smell....oh yeah!
-Ray
Look at table 2.2 and you will see why ethanol s*cks. Octane is the delay in combustion, low octane causes the fuel to burn while still in the compression stroke.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/british-thermal-unit
http://convert-to.com/conversion/power/convert-hp-to-btu-per-hr.html#:~:text=1 hp = 2,544.43 btu/h
https://ethanolrfa.org/high-octane-fuels/#:~:text=With a blending octane rating,a fuel known as E10.
All right science class is over.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/british-thermal-unit
http://convert-to.com/conversion/power/convert-hp-to-btu-per-hr.html#:~:text=1 hp = 2,544.43 btu/h
https://ethanolrfa.org/high-octane-fuels/#:~:text=With a blending octane rating,a fuel known as E10.
All right science class is over.
I hear you. A public forum isn't the place to talk about that personal stuff anyway.
I'm thinking about selling my business and retiring but afraid will miss it like you do. I hope to have something setup before retiring. Think about golfing more but how much can you do. Not sure if I could get the wife to do it but would love to rent a motor home and travel the USA for a few months a year.
I'm thinking about selling my business and retiring but afraid will miss it like you do. I hope to have something setup before retiring. Think about golfing more but how much can you do. Not sure if I could get the wife to do it but would love to rent a motor home and travel the USA for a few months a year.
I remember the Clark stations ect....
My 70' pro street 'cuda, with a ''highly massaged'' X head 340+ ect., wouldn't run on any octane less than 97.
Comp. on that was around 11.7-1.
Had a 15 gal fuel cell in it, & used to carry a 5 gal. jug of VP 114 , & mixed that with pump premium,, when we went on trips.
I exclusively use 92 octane ''TRU FUEL'' in all my small engines under 250cc.
It is expensive @ 5 - 6 bucks a qt.,, & that's why I just use it & recommend it for engines under 250cc.
Great stuff to use on larger engines at the ''last run'' of the season,, instead of ''Stabil'' ect. though.
The stuff is the best ''hands down'' out of all the ''canned'' fuel,, also has a shelf life of over 3 years !
It burns super clean,, has stabilizers & friction modifiers ect., & you can just leave it in till next season ect. & fire right back up.
I
My 70' pro street 'cuda, with a ''highly massaged'' X head 340+ ect., wouldn't run on any octane less than 97.
Comp. on that was around 11.7-1.
Had a 15 gal fuel cell in it, & used to carry a 5 gal. jug of VP 114 , & mixed that with pump premium,, when we went on trips.
I exclusively use 92 octane ''TRU FUEL'' in all my small engines under 250cc.
It is expensive @ 5 - 6 bucks a qt.,, & that's why I just use it & recommend it for engines under 250cc.
Great stuff to use on larger engines at the ''last run'' of the season,, instead of ''Stabil'' ect. though.
The stuff is the best ''hands down'' out of all the ''canned'' fuel,, also has a shelf life of over 3 years !
It burns super clean,, has stabilizers & friction modifiers ect., & you can just leave it in till next season ect. & fire right back up.
I
Last edited:
Yellow Tygon fuel line seems to hold up best, from my years of messing with that stuff.
Any small engine fuel line though that's constantly exposed to ''pump fuel'' in this day & age, is only going to last so long,, regardless if it's ethanol or not.
Best thing to do is drain the shit out, & ''at least'' run a bit of Marvel oil just to coat things,,, ''not WD-40'',,,,- ''BAAAAADDD''!!!
Better yet,, like my previous post,, run & store it with can fuel that's at least rated for a couple of years shelf life.
There is so much crap & additives in pump gas these days, it doesn't even smell like gas.
Pump gas in a fuel can/jug or tank,, will generally start going bad after 30 days or so.
Remember especially in the 70's,, that gas in a can, would be good for months,,, as long as it was sealed.
Any small engine fuel line though that's constantly exposed to ''pump fuel'' in this day & age, is only going to last so long,, regardless if it's ethanol or not.
Best thing to do is drain the shit out, & ''at least'' run a bit of Marvel oil just to coat things,,, ''not WD-40'',,,,- ''BAAAAADDD''!!!
Better yet,, like my previous post,, run & store it with can fuel that's at least rated for a couple of years shelf life.
There is so much crap & additives in pump gas these days, it doesn't even smell like gas.
Pump gas in a fuel can/jug or tank,, will generally start going bad after 30 days or so.
Remember especially in the 70's,, that gas in a can, would be good for months,,, as long as it was sealed.
Last edited:
Township eh? I graduated from Washington Twp High school in...well a long frickin' time ago. Used to live in Wedgewood, near the golf course.
I74 mentions Tru Fuel, that stuff is good too. Tru Fuel is 92 octane while VP SEF is 94 octane but that will not make much of a difference in a stock compression engine.
I've used Tru Fuel in my antique model airplane engines during contests. We typically use a 4:1 mix of Tru Fuel and Klotz Benol for Texaco fuel allotment classes, for increased run time. For limited engine run classes we use a 4:1 mix of methanol and Klotz Benol for more power. For those not familiar with these little engines, they are cross-scavenged, spark ignited two-stroke engines typically built in the 1930's and 1940's before the invention of the glow plug. While these engines will run on modern nitro fuel, it is not permitted by the rules and certainly not advised since the antique engines are not strong enough to tolerate the cylinder pressures generated by the nitro.
I74 mentions Tru Fuel, that stuff is good too. Tru Fuel is 92 octane while VP SEF is 94 octane but that will not make much of a difference in a stock compression engine.
I've used Tru Fuel in my antique model airplane engines during contests. We typically use a 4:1 mix of Tru Fuel and Klotz Benol for Texaco fuel allotment classes, for increased run time. For limited engine run classes we use a 4:1 mix of methanol and Klotz Benol for more power. For those not familiar with these little engines, they are cross-scavenged, spark ignited two-stroke engines typically built in the 1930's and 1940's before the invention of the glow plug. While these engines will run on modern nitro fuel, it is not permitted by the rules and certainly not advised since the antique engines are not strong enough to tolerate the cylinder pressures generated by the nitro.
i live in michigan. i only run tecumseh engines. used regular pump gas but it's a freaking nightmare. the ethanol makes of mess of the original carbs. changed to china carbs, and the problem got worse. carbs would leak. take float bowl off and the bowl gasket would be 30% larger than it should be. let it dry out on the workbench for a few days, and gasket would return to original size. And to boot i would run gas out of the bikes (turn off the gas tank value and ride until it quits.) still had carb problems (though this really did help, but did not eliminate all problems.)
changed to non-ethanol gas. which is *really* easy to find in michigan due to all the lakes. yes it's $5/gallon, but well worth it. all my carb problems went away. it's well worth the extra money.
changed to non-ethanol gas. which is *really* easy to find in michigan due to all the lakes. yes it's $5/gallon, but well worth it. all my carb problems went away. it's well worth the extra money.