Opinions on this hydraulic brake setup please

#2
It's the piston size and volume of juice it will accept to move it against the higher mass that is the difference. And those rotors are tiny and thin.

I would not assume that brake is superior to a scrub brake at all. A scrub brake does not fail completely. A juice brake can, and a too small juice brake will.

If you're going to let cost drive your project, better to do something else.

Written in blood, is an axiom that says cost driving safety is dangerous.

However, if you are about 100 pounds, and your bike weighs about 30 pounds, and you don't exceed 15 MPH, these brakes should be fine.
 
#4
The cast aluminum scrub brake shoe on our Bird Sears Runabout works really well. I attribute it’s performance to the design of the shoe. And maybe we got lucky on the tire design, composition and pressure. It’s not a piece of flat bar steel stock. We like the positive braking ability on the bike with little chance of failure.
 
#5
That rotor looks pretty thin to use on a powered vehicle imho
You would have to have a pretty sophisticated wheel to take advantage of that brake rotor
 
#6
That rotor looks pretty thin to use on a powered vehicle imho
You would have to have a pretty sophisticated wheel to take advantage of that brake rotor
compare them to the pocket bike stuff a lot of guys use and I don't see much difference at all. not tryin to be a wise guy but why would a person need a sophisticated wheel to take advantage of that?
 

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
#8
These might work. Just my opinion.
These racing bicycles are very lightweight. For a minibike they'll have to stop more mass. Most minibike riders are heavier, too.
The fast bicycle riders can reach speeds of 30mph. With those big diameter wheels the rotor of 160mm isn't making a lot of rpm. On a minibike riding 30mph the rotor makes more rpm's and therefor I think it might work.
Just try it, you've got the insurance covered. Keep us posted.
My rotors are 3mm thick and they hold up without breaking, so they can be lighter.
 
#10
These might work. Just my opinion.
These racing bicycles are very lightweight. For a minibike they'll have to stop more mass. Most minibike riders are heavier, too.
The fast bicycle riders can reach speeds of 30mph. With those big diameter wheels the rotor of 160mm isn't making a lot of rpm. On a minibike riding 30mph the rotor makes more rpm's and therefor I think it might work.
Just try it, you've got the insurance covered. Keep us posted.
My rotors are 3mm thick and they hold up without breaking, so they can be lighter.
that was kinda my thoughts on them, for 22.00, i might get them to simply check em out more. if they never get used, they can collect dust. not like i don't have dust collectors now lol I do appreciate all the input though and brakes are one area you don't want to really skimp out on. I just don't care for the paddle brake on the t birds at all. a little dew on them from the grass and they are useless. plus they take up room that could be used for tav, caliper mounts, etc maybe i'll try to add some sort of conveyor belt or old tire to them to see if that helps. then i just have front brakes to add on.
 

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
#11
My minibikes use the cheap, cable operated, calipers. With the very small pads in them. They are used on pocketbikes with 3mm thick 140-160mm diameter rotors. I have made my own rotors of 180mm and 3mm thick.
I have front- and rear brakes and for an emergency stop, they're just not good enough. They do not lock the wheel on asphalt roads, but it does stop the minibike when I want it to.
 
#12
I have 2 bikes with hydraulic brakes
I bought the material and had my waterjet guy cut the rotors to my specification.

1 has 1/4” thick aluminum rotor which requires special pads. The other is i think 3/16” steel.
The aluminum rotor bike uses a wilwood snowmobile M/C and MCP dual piston caliper with the green pads.
Steel rotor bike uses one of those kits that comes with M/C, lines and caliper all included.

Nothing stops a bike like juice brakes, that’s for sure
 
#13
I have 2 bikes with hydraulic brakes
I bought the material and had my waterjet guy cut the rotors to my specification.

1 has 1/4” thick aluminum rotor which requires special pads. The other is i think 3/16” steel.
The aluminum rotor bike uses a wilwood snowmobile M/C and MCP dual piston caliper with the green pads.
Steel rotor bike uses one of those kits that comes with M/C, lines and caliper all included.

Nothing stops a bike like juice brakes, that’s for sure

I can agree there, I built a mini chopper years ago, i used a pretty nice rear hyd disc setup on it (forget brand) and it would stop my big butt and that large mini pretty easily from 50 mph.
 

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