Paint Codes
- Thread starter crazycarts4us
- Start date
Not to sound like a wet blanket, but yes, having one place to go for all of the several thousand codes and possible codes used from 1958 to 1975 on mini bikes and cycles would be great. And totally subjective.
By the way, the Rupp code chart above has been on Blackwidow Motorsports Website for years, and has been referenced to several times over the years, and re-posted several times in this forum giving credit to the owner of that data.
Other paint codes have been documented here on several builds, including my own. I like to use the search feature.
In many cases, individual builders have decided what the color code is going to be, and then a few more people paint a particular model that color, and so it is written. Plum Crazy purple for example comes to mind. Seems like suddenly every purple vintage bike was "Plum Crazy." And the photos I've seen of that color, both in paint and in powder vary widely. In none of the instances I can recall, was the color "Plum Crazy" listed on the brochure.
And marketing strategies don't help. What color is "Flam Pineapple," or "Sporty Red?" So we research, and see what others have done, and if we like it, we copy with no proof that was indeed the actual color. Or we have the parts gopher behind the counter at NAPA use a spetrophotometer, on a sample we've brought in, not realizing it's faded from fifty years of sun, or that the meter is going to pick up on the one tiny piece of mica or silica in the paint, giving us a completely different code than what the color actually is. I have stopped bothering with them.
Even if we did have the codes used in say 1970, who's to say we're matching the batches used during a run? Matching the base coat, matching the primer? And if we're using clear urethane, acrylic enamel, or powder coat, we've made it more glossy than an original ever was. Is your painter using a modern base/clear two stage system? Sure won't look original.
A lot of these codes are "subjective." Others are obvious, like the "Competition Orange" we know was used on low end Cats. This was a popular color, and is the color and nomenclature given to Mercury in the 70's under Ford M1730, which is completely different than Ford Competition Orange M7117 in 2004. Yet if you walk into a paint shop and tell them you want "Competition Orange," or see the term on a Cat brochure, chances are you are going to paint your bike the wrong orange.
Here is an interesting article on Muscle Car paint colors.
Here are some Briggs engine codes I posted 3 1/2 years ago from a Briggs site I believe. Rattle can, so they'll wash off with gasoline unless you clear coat them.
I've stated the paint code used in every one of my builds. Few have expressed interest in those, and that's okay. I understand the need to have someone else do this work, or to opt for powder coating. If nothing else, I give the interested builder a visual look and a code with which to make their own determination on. But 90% of these codes are subjective, and unless I am doing a 100% accurate vintage representation, I stopped worrying about precise codes anyway. The new colors and coating products are simply too much fun to ignore!
By the way, the Rupp code chart above has been on Blackwidow Motorsports Website for years, and has been referenced to several times over the years, and re-posted several times in this forum giving credit to the owner of that data.
Other paint codes have been documented here on several builds, including my own. I like to use the search feature.
In many cases, individual builders have decided what the color code is going to be, and then a few more people paint a particular model that color, and so it is written. Plum Crazy purple for example comes to mind. Seems like suddenly every purple vintage bike was "Plum Crazy." And the photos I've seen of that color, both in paint and in powder vary widely. In none of the instances I can recall, was the color "Plum Crazy" listed on the brochure.
And marketing strategies don't help. What color is "Flam Pineapple," or "Sporty Red?" So we research, and see what others have done, and if we like it, we copy with no proof that was indeed the actual color. Or we have the parts gopher behind the counter at NAPA use a spetrophotometer, on a sample we've brought in, not realizing it's faded from fifty years of sun, or that the meter is going to pick up on the one tiny piece of mica or silica in the paint, giving us a completely different code than what the color actually is. I have stopped bothering with them.
Even if we did have the codes used in say 1970, who's to say we're matching the batches used during a run? Matching the base coat, matching the primer? And if we're using clear urethane, acrylic enamel, or powder coat, we've made it more glossy than an original ever was. Is your painter using a modern base/clear two stage system? Sure won't look original.
A lot of these codes are "subjective." Others are obvious, like the "Competition Orange" we know was used on low end Cats. This was a popular color, and is the color and nomenclature given to Mercury in the 70's under Ford M1730, which is completely different than Ford Competition Orange M7117 in 2004. Yet if you walk into a paint shop and tell them you want "Competition Orange," or see the term on a Cat brochure, chances are you are going to paint your bike the wrong orange.
Here is an interesting article on Muscle Car paint colors.
Here are some Briggs engine codes I posted 3 1/2 years ago from a Briggs site I believe. Rattle can, so they'll wash off with gasoline unless you clear coat them.
I've stated the paint code used in every one of my builds. Few have expressed interest in those, and that's okay. I understand the need to have someone else do this work, or to opt for powder coating. If nothing else, I give the interested builder a visual look and a code with which to make their own determination on. But 90% of these codes are subjective, and unless I am doing a 100% accurate vintage representation, I stopped worrying about precise codes anyway. The new colors and coating products are simply too much fun to ignore!
Nice post. I agree on everything you said and yes I know many have been posted but if there is a chance this can help anyone that would be nice.
Having attended schooling for two years in this field and working at a paint shop for over 15 years I still find it very enjoyable to look at all the variations of colors throughout the years. I just received some samples of powder coating swatches that caught my interest and I must say they look awesome.
Everyone has different taste and there are so MANY choices! Pick what color you like and enjoy the hobbie to the fullest
Having attended schooling for two years in this field and working at a paint shop for over 15 years I still find it very enjoyable to look at all the variations of colors throughout the years. I just received some samples of powder coating swatches that caught my interest and I must say they look awesome.
Everyone has different taste and there are so MANY choices! Pick what color you like and enjoy the hobbie to the fullest
Remember how restorers would argue whether the original "Bonanza Blue" paint color was Corvette Blue or Nassau Blue or Marina Blue ? When asked about it, Mike Farrand (founder of Bonanza) said it was none of that. "I had a graduation ring (Freemason ) which had a "Masonic Blue" setting in it that I greatly admired so I took it to a paint supplier (Dupont) and asked them to match it". That is the color which became Bonanza Blue.
You are correct on the Bonanza Blue color. It was not Nassau or Marina blue. I restored my Bonanza and took the time to correctly match the Bonanza blue to a factory painted Bonanza frame that had the original paint. I made sure to match the color to the areas that never were exposed to sun fade being underneath the fork badge serial # plate after I removed it and the under side of the engine mount plate. The color matching took some time but I got it spot on. I used PPG paint. It had the correct metallic size as original. A lot of the paints today have metallic flakes that are too large which makes the paint not look right. I used the paint codes of the 66' Corvette Nassau blue ( 976 ) and the 68' Corvette International blue ( 978 ) and intermixed them several ounces at a time back and forth and doing test panel spray out each time and checking it to the areas mentioned above that were not exposed to sun fade until I got a perfect match. It was a little time consuming but very well worth it.
If I remember correctly it was aprox. 2/3 International blue to 1/3 Nassau blue and then lightly intermixing back and forth after that until I got the exact match. I had 2 full unreduced pints left over. I did sell one of the full unreduced pints last year or so and still have one left but I am keeping that one in case I do another Bonanza restoration or damage and scratch the one I have now.
I was going to follow this path, but my local PPG dealer says he does not have the formula information for the 1968 Corvette International Blue (#978).
(He has the Nassau Blue #976)
I've looked at a number of web-based paint providers, but either I'm worried about the quality or I'm up into the gallons. The Nassau Blue look too light to me.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
(He has the Nassau Blue #976)
I've looked at a number of web-based paint providers, but either I'm worried about the quality or I'm up into the gallons. The Nassau Blue look too light to me.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill