PLEASE HELP ME! CT-200U-ex problems!

#1
Hey y’all, I recently installed a OldMiniBikes Stage 1 + Torque converter kit for my CT-200U-EX, as soon as I started it up the bike was actually slower than before. It would only run with the choke on. I fixed that by replacing the carburetor from the stage 1 kit with the original stock carburetor. I drove it and it went super fast! I was doing at least 45 MPH!! I took it back to my garage turned it off, and when I tried to ride it again, it was only able to go about 15 MPH and the rear wheel kept locking up and the engine was accelerating very wierd and the throttle didn’t seem to respond properly. It felt very scary and unpredictable. Any help?? How can I fix this????? Please help
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#3
Have you pulled the wheel off to see if anything came apart on the drum brake? I have heard of the friction material breaking away from the shoe on those. A lot of guys swap out to better quality shoes on the Colemans.
 
#4
Have you pulled the wheel off to see if anything came apart on the drum brake? I have heard of the friction material breaking away from the shoe on those. A lot of guys swap out to better quality shoes on the Colemans.
i have not. What would be the result of that happening? It’s not only my wheel though, my engine is very jumpy and weird. When I go full throttle my engine does not respond and when I let go of throttle it jerks me forward. I can tell it is struggling very much to let me go full speed. Could this be the carburetor?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#5
i have not. What would be the result of that happening? It’s not only my wheel though, my engine is very jumpy and weird. When I go full throttle my engine does not respond and when I let go of throttle it jerks me forward. I can tell it is struggling very much to let me go full speed. Could this be the carburetor?
The bike isn't going to perform well with a dragging and locking brake. Try to find out why the rear wheel is locking up first and fix that, then go to seeing why you are having a problem with the engine after the stage 1 kit install. Perhaps the "Grey Goat" has heard of these engine issues after his kits were bought and installed? You may want to contact them, especially if their carb didn't work properly.
 
#6
The bike isn't going to perform well with a dragging and locking brake. Try to find out why the rear wheel is locking up first and fix that, then go to seeing why you are having a problem with the engine after the stage 1 kit install. Perhaps the "Grey Goat" has heard of these engine issues after his kits were bought and installed? You may want to contact them, especially if their carb didn't work properly.
i loosened off the brake and found out that was why the wheel was locking up. However it still does not go full speed and it capping out at a bout 15 mph. The engine is struggling a lot
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#12
Yes. The driven pulley is out to far or the driver is too in. One or the other needs shimmed.

The back of the sheave(the flat side) needs to be perfectly in line. If not your belt will wear, it will jerk and the belt will slip.

They sell shims or you can use washers.
 
#13
Yes. The driven pulley is out to far or the driver is too in. One or the other needs shimmed.

The back of the sheave(the flat side) needs to be perfectly in line. If not your belt will wear, it will jerk and the belt will slip.

They sell shims or you can use washers.
Do you know why it won’t start any more?
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#14
Do you know why it won’t start any more?
You need fuel, spark, and compression for an engine to start.

Verify each one. DId you remove the gas tank during your install? Pinch a fuel line? Is the carb on correctly? Gaskets, fully sealed, ect.

Did you leave the governor intact when you installed the new carb? Did you try to zip tie the governor?

Those are big ones that lead right away usually to a no start issue.

You can spray starting fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it starts there you have a carb or fuel problem.
 
#15
You need fuel, spark, and compression for an engine to start.

Verify each one. DId you remove the gas tank during your install? Pinch a fuel line? Is the carb on correctly? Gaskets, fully sealed, ect.

Did you leave the governor intact when you installed the new carb? Did you try to zip tie the governor?

Those are big ones that lead right away usually to a no start issue.

You can spray starting fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it starts there you have a carb or fuel problem.
I did not Remove the gas tank. I did plug the fuel line with a bolt while I was changing the carburetor, it leaked gas everywhere. Maybe the spark plug got wet or something? I did by pass the governor, not with a zip tie but by drilling a hole in the arm to the farthest point to the right where the holes are ( under the gas tank) and slipping the spring into there. And that worked good.
i only had starting problems after I put the grey goats OldMiniBikes carburetor on. The stock carb gives me no issues.
 

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#16
It's probably time to throw a new spark plug at it. The one you have may spark outside the motor but not under compression. Get it from an auto parts store not the internet
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#19
What would a partial shear look like
If the engine runs properly with the stock carb but does not with a different carb there should be no concern about a sheared flywheel key. The issue sounds like the stage 1 carb.

Your "governor bypass" is unnecessary with the stock gearing and torque converter because you will not see the RPM you were going for and no increase in top speed. The only benefit you have is that there will be no governor operation at top speed that you seen when the bike was new.
 
#20
You need fuel, spark, and compression for an engine to start.

Verify each one. DId you remove the gas tank during your install? Pinch a fuel line? Is the carb on correctly? Gaskets, fully sealed, ect.

Did you leave the governor intact when you installed the new carb? Did you try to zip tie the governor?

Those are big ones that lead right away usually to a no start issue.

You can spray starting fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it starts there you have a carb or fuel problem.
So I narrowed it down to to he spark plug because when I removed it, the spark plug was burnt out and black, i went and got a new one, and i plugged it in to the ignition coil, and I’m not even getting a spark when I pull the chain. What could be causing this and how do I fix it? Thanks y’all
 
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