"Po' White Trash" VS newcomer call out/heads up $ street race this Sunday!

[Daniel Coop]

I have remained unchallenged for having likely the fastest mini bike in the Denver Metro area until now...
So, I have mentioned that I ride with a group of guys here in Denver from a FB group page called Denver Mini Bikes. I'm not a member of the group page or FB for that matter, but know a few of the guys who keep me in the loop. Heard through a friend about a guy I met once, who was talking a bunch of mess on the group page about how he was going to "drag my ass" Apparently, I had rubbed this fellow's feathers the wrong way after smoking him and a buddy on my newly finished black DB a few weeks earlier.

His bike is the whitish DB with a GX200. I guess he decided to put a different engine in the same bike and then thought it'd be a good idea to call out a bike he'd only heard about and seen in pictures, but didn't quite have the cohones to call me out directly. I found his phone number through Craigslist where he was trying to sell the bike in question and called him out myself. He refused to race for the hell of it and insisted on a cash bet, so I bet him only $50 with the agreement of a $500 punk out fee if he doesn't show, or has any other excuse. This is the only current picture I have of the contender...

From what I know, it's a Tecumseh Powersports H50 that he has supposedly rebuilt... It's supposed to have a Crane 91010 camshaft and he claims to have a 3.125" bore piston in it. It's obviously got a Tillotson carburetor and a fancy looking exhaust header, but outside of that, Idk... Nobody has seen the bike run down the street, and he said he only just had it running the previous day, but he sure seems confident. Seeing a recoil starter and a lack of billet head, sidecover, etc tends me to believe I don't have much to worry about, but who knows.
The defending champ...

Could this be the end of Po White Trash's reign at the top? Can an old flatty possibly take the throne from my stainless valve 212 hybrid?? We'll find out Sunday... Vanderbilt Park in Denver around noon. It's a 1/8 mile run, so I am making some changes and gearing accordingly. Stay tuned! Hopefully I can get it all in video and will post results, win or lose. There's supposed to be more riders out just to watch than any other time. People are betting hundreds on this race and we're expecting a small croud.

 

[OUTLAWD]

Nice...Good luck! you guys ever run with the clocks on? I understand if you can't share...

The altitude sure doesn't help...I lived in FoCo for a few years, I think I recall 20% power loss for every mile gain...

There is a mini only night at the track in a couple weeks, put on by Studz...I'll be lucky if I'm not the slowest thing there...

 

[danford1]

The pull start on both bikes means the cam has a compression release. Compression release cams can't handle a lot of spring pressure.
That means the engines aren't likely to turn 9000 rpm or higher. IMO That should help level the playing field.
Are both engines running gas or alcohol ? If one on gas and the other on Alky, the Alky engine could be the victory provided it is built right.
The short straight pipe on the flatty tells me it is for looks or sound but may not be for performance. Racing pipes made for tq and power have a stepped design. However that color change on the end of the pipe shows his pipe is cut to the correct length for whatever rpm the engine turns. More on this at the end of this post.

Weight to hp is a key factor in any form of racing. If you both have the same hp and the same set up, the guy that weighs less will most likely win. Do you know if you out weigh him? Did your race agreement state that you both are driving/riding your bikes? Some guys will claim they have a broken wrist, finger, arm etc and get a little tiny light weight friend to drive for them. Watch out for that kind of BS.

MASSIVE testing on your part with a practice strip the same length as your race strip and a stop watch will help you dial in your bike.
Write everything down about your set up, make a couple runs, record the time. Only Change ONE Thing at a time and make more runs, write it all down. If you make a run and changed jets and gearing at the same time, you won't know what helped and what didn't. One change at a time is the way to do it.

Be diligent in what you do, be consistent in your actions and moves, do everything the same, each and every time you make a run. It you get on the bike from the left side, get on it from the left every time. If you bend your neck left then right before the run, bend you neck left then right before every run. If you scratch your ass, scratch it every run. You have to train yourself to do the same things each run. I know drag racers (cars, not minibikes) that do the exact same thing each and every time they run. They will tell you how important it is although it sounds like complete nonsense. Getting in a rhythm will keep you focused on what you are doing. You can stay calmer under the stress of the race. There will be trash talking before the race, ignore it and don't let them get in your head as that is what they are trying to do. They want you to get upset and be off your game. Tell you posse to ignore the trash talk also.There will be plenty of time for trash talk after the race, save it for then but get your win money first!
Before you race, go over the rules. Are false starts OK, how many do you get, or do you lose the first time you jump? Are both front tires on the start line or is one guy set out front or behind? What happens if the other guys crosses over into your lane? (In real racing he loses the race). How many races is this, just one, 2 out of 3, 3 out of 5 ? Who is the starter? Is it an arm drop, arm raise, one arm, two arms, flashlight, gun shot etc? Have the starter demonstrate the action. Where is the finish line? Is it clearly marked on the pavement, if not have a piece of chalk with you and make a straight line so you both agree that is the finish line. What part of the minibike defines the winner? Does the front fender cross the line first? Does the front edge of the tire cross the line first? Does the tire contact patch on the ground define the winner of the race? This is all important when you review the recording of the photo finish. Make sure you have a few people record the finish line of the race and not move the camera around, keep it pointed at the finish line from the edge of the finish line. Also have someone record the "going over the rules" talk.
This is all important even though it sounds crazy. If the guy doesn't want to agree to any of it, do you think he is going to run a fair race? I don't.
Be prepared for him to up the anti from $50 to much more. Cocky guys like to do that especially in front of his posse. They are showing off. Again go over the rules before the race. Lock in the money with a hand shake before you race. Make sure each of you say you are locked in at the dollar amount. There are a hundred ways someone you beat will try to get out of paying you when they loose. Try to avoid that crap by going over the rules before the race.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Danford1

OK now a story. I mentioned the pipe color. I drag race cars as do a lot of friends. When running open headers, most times it is advantageous to use a "torque pipe" on the end of your headers. It is just a straight pipe the same diameter as your collector.
You start with about a 3 foot long pipe on each header. You paint it white with cheap paint, even thinned out latex. After you make a run you look to see where along the pipe the paint burned off it. It will be about 18" back give or take on a car engine. You cut the pipe off at the center of the burn area. That is supposed to give your engine and header combo the best torque. Sure it may be a tiny bit but in racing, a tiny bit is all you need sometimes...
I saw the color change on the end of his pipe and thought that is how someone determined where to cut the pipe.

 

[Chain Linkin]

I guess he decided to put a different engine in the same bike...I found his phone number through Craigslist where he was trying to sell the bike in question

Lol this part reads like a "did it myself" Craigslist horror story. I guess if he listed a price you would be able to see how much confidence he has in his bike.

Love a good grudge match though, best of luck to you! I think I speak for everyone when I say that OldMiniBikes stands behind you.

 

[ole4]

I run 37 lb springs and dual springs with Isky custom welded cams and the compression release works fine. Not sure why some would not work.

 

[ole4]

That motor does not look like a H50 as it has a cast mounting base and the h50 has a bolt on metal base. It appears to be the Tecumseh star and if so they can make a LOT of power properly modded and are much bigger engine.

 

[Studeman68]

That motor does not look like a H50 as it has a cast mounting base and the h50 has a bolt on metal base. It appears to be the Tecumseh star and if so they can make a LOT of power properly modded and are much bigger engine.

X2.... I'm with Ole... That is not an H50.. if it's a Motorsport engine it's probably a Star motor...

 

[SAS289]

Have someone record the race and post it here?

 

[Daniel Coop]

Ugh... I've been had in more ways than one. It is a Star motor and supposedly (according to him) he's friends with Mike at VKE Motorsports here in Aurora, CO. Supposed to be one of the foremost builder's of these motors? This is the rod and piston he says that's in there...

Then today a buddy asks me if I know it's on methanol, and yet another buddy tells me he's sold the DB roller today, that we had bet on and is trying to source a mini drag bike frame before the race somehow!? He's trying to play games, BS'n. Wants to bring a gun to a knife fight. I have a pump gas motor in a modified China frame... It's starting to sound like some BS, and he's doing his best to turn the crew against each other with all the BS and shit talk.
I have began getting my bike ready in the meantime, geared up, and mounted a slick on a spare DB wheel for easy switching... Still have to service my motor and do a little testing.

Thanks guys for the support and advice, but I'm not even sure it's going down at this point and ain't quite sure what to do about the whole situation... All the BS taking the fun out of it. Dude has a prepared race motor, I have a worked over utility motor.

 

[ole4]

Its not fair to race a big block against a small block. That carb looks like a mikuni BN. That motor is probably around 25HP with a ton of torque.

 

[OND]

Wasn't the Tecumseh Star engine rated at like 10hp from the factory ?

 

[Davis]

Well your the one that called him out so I guess just do it but your right on the discrepancy on not running the same bike win or loose who cares it's all in fun thank god it wasn't a huge bet.

 

[Daniel Coop]

Its not fair to race a big block against a small block. That carb looks like a mikuni BN. That motor is probably around 25HP with a ton of torque.

Shows my ignorance being relatively new to the game. Had never even heard of these motors until today. Makes sense as to why he said it kept snapping chains but it would seem he never really had a bike to drag my ass with if he had just put that together, and then sold the roller because he couldn't keep a chain on it...?

 

[ole4]

Star was based off the 10 hp engine and stated same 10hp rating but they had bigger valves a racing cam and springs better ports and tilotson carbs. You could get ally or gas.

 

[danbur55]

Sounds like the bet was with the other bike "he sold " so this would call for renegotiation as it doesn't sound like a "run what ya brung" bet. He's changing his stuff and intimidating you so you'll back out!! Copy the pics you were sent and anything else shows up "hey that ain't what was agreed on buddy boy" he is punking out in a different way. Hold him to the race that YOU agreed to. Not some other bike or motor. Show up head held high and make him hold to the integrity of of a gentleman's agreement!!!!! Don't fall for sucker punch or back down to internet hype. Granted you may have just got suck in and so be it "lesson learned". Pay the man and walk away knowing you stayed true to your word. Good luck and hoping you slam this prickster

 

[Baja_brandon96]

Sounds like the bet was with the other bike "he sold " so this would call for renegotiation as it doesn't sound like a "run what ya brung" bet. He's changing his stuff and intimidating you so you'll back out!! Copy the pics you were sent and anything else shows up "hey that ain't what was agreed on buddy boy" he is punking out in a different way. Hold him to the race that YOU agreed to. Not some other bike or motor. Show up head held high and make him hold to the integrity of of a gentleman's agreement!!!!! Don't fall for sucker punch or back down to internet hype. Granted you may have just got suck in and so be it "lesson learned". Pay the man and walk away knowing you stayed true to your word. Good luck and hoping you slam this prickster

Well said.

 

[Chain Linkin]

SO you're opposition is allegedly attempting to build a drag bike in four days. I would be impressed if he pulls that off but I do agree that this whole run about stuff is BS.

I'm with [MENTION=42823]danbur55[/MENTION] too. There's a big difference between "I have the fastest bike" and " I can build a faster bike".

 

[danford1]

If he shows up but doesn't have the bike you called out, doesn't that mean he owes you the $500 punk put fee?

You wrote "so I bet him only $50 with the agreement of a $500 punk out fee if he doesn't show, or has any other excuse."


Danford1

 

[Daniel Coop]

If he shows up but doesn't have the bike you called out, doesn't that mean he owes you the $500 punk put fee?

You wrote "so I bet him only $50 with the agreement of a $500 punk out fee if he doesn't show, or has any other excuse."


Danford1

Yeah, that's what we both agreed to and I guarantee I ain't paying a punk out fee. I'll be there ready, but I agree with Danbur, any bet at this point would need to be re-negotiated. I'm willing to race just for pride at this point, because I honestly believe that he can't​ put together a bike that will hold together and be capable of beating mine in 3 days now. Unless he next day aired a complete Nitro 44 roller or something... Even then, there's not much time to test if any.

I serviced my engine this morning. Changed the oil, checked and adjusted my valve lash, replaced the spark plug with a new NGK BPR6ES and replaced the fuel filter.

68t rear sprocket and chain installed. Time for some testing. It was a little cool and wet this afternoon due to some passing rain showers so I only got one hit in, but I'm going to try downsizing my main jet and try again tomorrow. It seemed to be getting too much fuel on the big end and was bucking/surging right before hitting the end of the 1/8th. If a jet change doesn't help, I will try a 66t in hopes of getting to the end of the strip before hitting the end of my rope.

 

[danford1]

I'm curious. I see a lot of minibikes with a slick on it. Yet when I watch minibike drags on youtube etc. Most of them don't have great out of the hole response. They have major top end but not bottom end. If you had a regular rear tire, would your minibike roast the tire taking off? I'm curious why you have a slick on it? Do you have or need a wheelie bar? Slicks are very dangerous if you hit a wet spot on the street or track... I read somewhere (must be true it was on the internet) that a slick tire takes more power to move the bike forward then a regular tire. Something about contact patch, rolling resistance, tire pressure etc.

Danford1