Soon I will be getting a '72 Moto Skeeter 650, and I really want to do this bike right, so I am going to be phoning a few local powder coating shops and taking quotes on what it will cost to get the frame, tank, fenders, engine shroud, clutch covers, etc powder coated. I was just wondering what you guys are paying for powder coating? :shrug:
sears roper:
frame (2pcs), forks, rims,fender bracket
scat cat
frame, forks,springs
rupp hustler
frame,swingarm,forks,footpegs,couple other small pieces
i had all this done for $250.00[/b
THAT INCLUDED BLASTING EVERYTHING AND THE ROPER TANK.
THEY WOULDN'T COAT THE GAS TANK CAUSE THEY HAVE HAD TANKS BLOW UP IN THE OVEN BEFORE
frame (2pcs), forks, rims,fender bracket
scat cat
frame, forks,springs
rupp hustler
frame,swingarm,forks,footpegs,couple other small pieces
i had all this done for $250.00[/b
THAT INCLUDED BLASTING EVERYTHING AND THE ROPER TANK.
THEY WOULDN'T COAT THE GAS TANK CAUSE THEY HAVE HAD TANKS BLOW UP IN THE OVEN BEFORE
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They'll probly say to bring the parts in for an estimate. My guy did my Skat Kitty frame, forks, chain guard, wheel hubs and gas tank in red. They were already blasted. He also did my foot pegs, brake parts, rims, kick stand and jack shaft in chrome. He had to blast those parts. He did all the work for $125. Everything came out beautiful except the frame which suffered from outgassing.
I do my own powder coating. Only black parts. Reworked an electric oven and bought a cheap 'gun'. Absolutely no complaints with quality. But I gotta say that it is not all it is cracked up to be in the biker-build mags and other non-reality sources.
If it is a restoration then the proper color very often will not be available.
Powder, if the object is to be stock looking, is as bad a choice as 'clear coating' regular paint. If it is to be a Custom anything is OK.
You will be really pissed when you have to try to patch powder coat. In general can't be done. Found out on final assembly that a 'tab' needs to be added to the frame? You are then screwed.
Lapped metal that has oil and etc. trapped in-between will not often cause a problem when a spray gun is used. The necessary heat used in powder coating will usually cause a mess. Crap can and will come boiling out of everything that can trap it.
Ever tried to strip powder coat when a mistake has been made? You'll do it once and then have nothing but fear of the next time it has to be done.
As mentioned above: A gas tank may not be able to be done. Worse, if there is ANY body filler, putty, plastic part or ANYTHING that will not take the heat you are in for a really bad experience. Even a tiny flake of original paint or primer in a pit.
I never blast a frame or almost anything else before painting. Not necessary. With powder coat it is generally necessary and is an 'extra cost' item. Then you have to deal with the sand that got inside tubes that had holes in them.
Then there is the outrageous cost involved. Not only the price but the gas running back and forth.
Powder coat changes the appearance of a part because it is so damned thick. For instance, I want to see the form of the original welds. Powder coat makes it look like the joints were ground. OK for a custom. OK for an Old Mini Bike? The only rational answer is NO.
How about the time element? If you do your own painting [anyone can because it requires less skill than roasting a turkey with stuffing and gibbet gravy] the job is done quickly at home. I refuse to sit on my hands for a week [maybe two, maybe three] waiting for powder coat.
Like I said above, I do my own but only 'accessory' parts like an engine shroud or a brake rod or caliper mount. But almost never on a restoration or a bike for a child.
All that glitters is not gold.
If it is a restoration then the proper color very often will not be available.
Powder, if the object is to be stock looking, is as bad a choice as 'clear coating' regular paint. If it is to be a Custom anything is OK.
You will be really pissed when you have to try to patch powder coat. In general can't be done. Found out on final assembly that a 'tab' needs to be added to the frame? You are then screwed.
Lapped metal that has oil and etc. trapped in-between will not often cause a problem when a spray gun is used. The necessary heat used in powder coating will usually cause a mess. Crap can and will come boiling out of everything that can trap it.
Ever tried to strip powder coat when a mistake has been made? You'll do it once and then have nothing but fear of the next time it has to be done.
As mentioned above: A gas tank may not be able to be done. Worse, if there is ANY body filler, putty, plastic part or ANYTHING that will not take the heat you are in for a really bad experience. Even a tiny flake of original paint or primer in a pit.
I never blast a frame or almost anything else before painting. Not necessary. With powder coat it is generally necessary and is an 'extra cost' item. Then you have to deal with the sand that got inside tubes that had holes in them.
Then there is the outrageous cost involved. Not only the price but the gas running back and forth.
Powder coat changes the appearance of a part because it is so damned thick. For instance, I want to see the form of the original welds. Powder coat makes it look like the joints were ground. OK for a custom. OK for an Old Mini Bike? The only rational answer is NO.
How about the time element? If you do your own painting [anyone can because it requires less skill than roasting a turkey with stuffing and gibbet gravy] the job is done quickly at home. I refuse to sit on my hands for a week [maybe two, maybe three] waiting for powder coat.
Like I said above, I do my own but only 'accessory' parts like an engine shroud or a brake rod or caliper mount. But almost never on a restoration or a bike for a child.
All that glitters is not gold.
