Predator 212 Electric Oil Pump

#1
I have a ungoverned predator 212 and would like to keep it running for as long as possible. Im wondering if it is possible to run an electric oil pump to suck oil from the bottom of the block and pump it up to above the crank and rod to keep it lubed. I have 22Lb valve springs and chromoly push rods but I don't have the money to buy a billet rod. Im just wondering if there is too much pressure in the case for a pump to run or if it is bad to pump oil directly onto the crank and rod. Here is a picture of my Idea. Drawing.png


Let me know if this is a bad idea or if it won't work. Thanks :laugh:
 
#2
You're using the governor hole, right? I've wanted to try this myself more because I wanted to have an oil cooler and filter, not necessarily because of lubrication. I'm not sure how much better the stock rod will hold up with this system. Personally, I would just run a heavier oil and fuller crankcase for that problem. I would also suggest putting a tee at the governor hole and running a second, smaller line to the valve cover for a little lubrication up there.

All and all, this won't turn a stock rod into a billet rod.

Curious how many rpms you turn.
 

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#3
Personally, I would just run a quality kart oil or one designed for these splash oil systems, and keep it under 6500RPM until you can afford a rod. You didn't mention a cam so if just running the stock cam, I think you'll be fine. Save the money you'd spend on this oil pump setup for a proper rod.
 

noseoil

Active Member
#4
An oil pump isn't going to help with this engine type. The oil is forced into the main journal under pressure by the rod dipper as it slaps against the oil in the crankcase. I made a couple of passes this weekend (one at 8400 rpm) without any trouble (yet) at the main bearing on the rod. I run Mobile1 5w-30 & keep it clean.

The right rod, bearing clearance, oil type & level is what you need to maintain these motors, it's pretty basic. An electric pump won't force oil into the bearings & might just starve the crankcase at some point when it needs a level to splash for the rod to hit.
 
#7
Thanks for all of the feedback, I have a tachometer on the the way and I am still running the stock cam. I currently have my throttle setup still ran through the governor arm with the little paddle on the inside of the case cut off right below the washer. Then a return spring pulling the governor arm back. Any recommendations for a cam?
 
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Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#8
IMHO... You should have saved the money you spent on the tach for a rod, cam and flywheel (If you don't already have one). You're not blowing anything up with the stock cam...There are already numerous threads about cam recommendations for the Predators, so I won't bother to comment on that... Look in the Honda/Clone/Predator section. Oh well, at least you'll have the tach for tuning and shit later. Not a waste...
 
#9
I would have to agree with the others on multiple points.
The splash system has worked well for a long long time, and is used by most manufacturers.

And running ungoverned without a billet rod and flywheel is just asking for trouble, above spec rpms.

A high quality oil is very important.
 
#11
You're using the governor hole, right? I've wanted to try this myself more because I wanted to have an oil cooler and filter, not necessarily because of lubrication. I'm not sure how much better the stock rod will hold up with this system. Personally, I would just run a heavier oil and fuller crankcase for that problem. I would also suggest putting a tee at the governor hole and running a second, smaller line to the valve cover for a little lubrication up there.

All and all, this won't turn a stock rod into a billet rod.

Curious how many rpms you turn.
I am trying to install an oil cooler as well did you ever end up doing it? If so how?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#12
I am trying to install an oil cooler as well did you ever end up doing it? If so how?
I've been wondering for years if anyone has put a gauge on these engines and looked at the oil temp. After pointing an infrared thermometer at different parts of a hot engine I have found that these engines don't run as hot as I thought they did. The only impressive temps I seen were of course right at the exhaust side of the head. Everything else was cooler than I thought it would be. I don't think an oil cooler is needed unless you are seeing very high oil temps.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#13
here you go guys. they do make a small block clone with a oil pump and cooler. i don't think you would need a oil cooler unless your running it in a enclose area? now the oil pump/filter would be a plus. motor would last for a very long time.
shedder engine.PNG
 

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#14
I've been wondering for years if anyone has put a gauge on these engines and looked at the oil temp...
Good idea. There's such a thing as an oil temperature dipstick. Tons of 'em, some digital some analog. Problem is, at anything above idle speed all (or most) of the oil is basically stirred up into a mist by the slinger (if I understand correctly).



Assuming that's correct, checking oil temp would require stopping and idling if not a complete shutoff.
I wonder what the thread type/size is for the Predator oil fill plug?

Here's a hack for making your own with a Harbor Freight digital thermometer:
https://advrider.com/f/threads/xr650l-oil-dipstick-digital-thermometer.936192/
Yes, that motorcycle carries oil in the frame, which explains the location of the dipstick.
 
#15
Ok thanks for the info everyone I just have a universal oil cooler kit sitting in the garage and am looking for an excuse to use it and the engine seemed to run hot to me. Just for kicks if I was to install the cooler would my best bet be to tap and thread theb get an adapter for both in and out ports there or have the in at my drain plug and return at the governor? Would I need an a extra sender or oil pump?
 
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