Predator 212 kicking back! Timing off?

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MattB203

New Member
#1
#1
Hey! I just rebuilt my non-hemi predator 212cc motor after running it for a few months after removing the governor and adding bigger jets/exhaust. I wanted to really build it this time so i cracked open the case and added these parts:
Mod 2 cheater cam
26lb valve springs
Chromoly push rods (stock length)
Honda Intake/exhaust valves (stock sizes)
High comp head (14cc)
22mm Mikuni carb
ARC Billet Rod (stock length)
ARC billet flywheel (32 timing BTDC)
New stock piston
Walbro fuel pump

Now the problem im having is the engine wont start. I did get it to start once but then it died after about 2 seconds. Its hard to pull and backfires every now and then pulling the cord right out of my hand which hurts like hell! I know my cam timing is correct , coil gap is at .030, valve lash was at .003 for intake/exhaust but recently just gapped to .004 to see if it does anything. Ive purchased timing degree keys 2,4,6, and tried them all. some make it back fire even more or nothing at all. Im going to try throwing in the stock key again since thats what made it start in the first place.. i just dont know if my timing may be off because everything else seems fine. Any help would be appreciated!
 
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Mariah

#2
#2
Matt...The flywheel already has 32* of advance built into it, try putting the 6* key in backwards to reduce your advance to 26*. That will help reduce the kickback so you can run it a while and adjust your carb. If you can't spin the engine fast enough with the pull starter, 32* of advance will certainly stop the piston and push it backwards. A faster idle will also be needed to overcome the timing advance.
 
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MattB203

New Member
#5
#5
Thanks for the input guys! Its been pouring rain where im at unfortunately, hopefully itll clear up and ill get a chance to get the beast started. I ordered a 130 main jet for the mikuni because ole told me it may be running too lean with the stock in there. I'll also check my lash about 10 degrees after top dead, might be too tight like you guys are saying. Once i get it started i'll reply here again!
 
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ole4

ole4

#7
#7
Pulling the rope out of your hand when starting is not from tight valves its from too loose exhaust clearance. This causes the decompressor not to work. Unless you are Briock Lesmar you are not going to pull start it without the decompressor working.
 
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stargazer7467

Member
#11
#11
i had the exact same issue with mine, broken handles, giant bruise on my leg from the handle, and many swear words later. I reset my valve lash to .002 intake and exhaust, and it starts smoothly everytime now, not even gloves required.
 
ole4

ole4

#12
#12
Crown to eliminate timing or a sheard key, turn off the run switch to prevent sparks and then pull the starter like you are trying to start it. If should pull over easily. if it still tries to pull the handle out of your hand and you are SURE you have adjusted the valves correctly according to the directions above then your decompressor is broken. To see if that is the case you should have a dial indicator or a good eye and watch the exhaust pushrod on the compression stroke to see if it opens slightly (.010) then closes near TDC.
 
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