Predator Engines
- Thread starter Chuzz
- Start date
The 212 Predators have a 3/4" shaft/PTO; if your current engine doesn't have a 3/4" shaft, you will need a new clutch. I would suggest getting a good brand name clutch, such as a Max-Torque SS, or getting a torque converter (AKA: CVT, TAV). You won't "need" an adjustable engine plate but some people like them. An old #35 chain may not last long with the 212 and a new RLV chain would be a good investment (I suggest a 10' length w/ 4 master links to have spares), gold if you like bling, black if you don't.
Thank you, Charles. I'll keep that in mind. I'm thinking about taking the Predator back, because the same person I got the Doodle Bug from gave me a pressure washer with a 7 hp Briggs on it. I can't find a gas tank to fit the pressure washer anywhere, so am considering taking THAT engine and putting it on the Doodle Bug and having an accessory type tank behind the seat for it. That would be a little more hp and less investment. I'm on a fixed income and am getting into the grocery money already and I like to eat. LOL I appreciate the informative input.
Well, after a SPIRITED discussion with the wife about "pissing away $100 on a TOY", I took the Predator back to Harbor Freight. I pulled the 7.5 off the pressure washer and I THINK by building my own adapter plate and purchasing a new, 3/4" clutch, I can make this thing work. It runs great already, so I'm a step ahead on that. I will most likely spend this afternoon trying to work out the geometry for the chain and see if I can use the old one or have to get a new one. I know I said 7 hp in previous post, but it's actually a 7.5. I removed both engines last night and ran out of time so will have to continue this afternoon after church. I'm going to have to come up with a remote tank and a new configuration for the exhaust, but first things first!
Okay, after church today, I went out and started tinkering around. I actually found out that the Generac engine is a 7.8 hp and not 7.5, but no big deal. Anyway, I cut out the pressure washer engine mounting plate and then using it as a template, I drilled new holes in the Doodle Bug plate and mounted the Generac. I'm not sure if I have the geometry exact, so I cut slots in the plate so I can move the engine in or out. Now, I guess I need to find a 3/4 clutch. Anyone have an old one that's shot that you'd want to donate before I buy a new one? I'd like to try it and make sure that everything is going to line up before I bite the bullet and then find out it's not going to work. My new tires SHOULD be here tomorrow. I just wonder how much of a pain it's going to be to remove the old ones and put the new ones on. I might wind up taking them to the shop where I buy tires. Ramon is a good dude and will probably do it for a $10 bill. If not, I'm sure a $20 will do it. Getting excited about this ride, fellas. After I get it all back together, I'll get a shot of it and show you. I'm going to have to remote mount a gas tank and think I'll just use the one off the 3.5 as a temporary until I know everything will work. Let me know if you have a clutch to donate. I'll be happy to pay the shipping.
Yeah, you'll need to have the clutch to locate the engine. Flipping the clutch (sprocket inboard) will keep the larger engine more centered in the frame. Usually, the plate is slotted longitudinally to facilitate chain adjustment, rather than transversally (which is why you need the clutch to locate the engine). Some people use an aluminum plate that allows adjustment in both axes.
https://www.bmikarts.com/Motor-Moun...ikes-Doodle-Bug-Baja-Motovox-etc_p_10542.html
I'm no expert on clutches but I think this would be a good choice. A higher tooth count might be good with the stock rear sprocket and larger engine but it seems to double the price.
https://www.bmikarts.com/Max-Torque...-a-34-Bore-for-Go-Kart-or-Minibike_p_721.html
See the second paragraph, and linked article, in post #4.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...he-large-mini-baja-bikes.167273/#post-1221718
https://www.bmikarts.com/Motor-Moun...ikes-Doodle-Bug-Baja-Motovox-etc_p_10542.html
I'm no expert on clutches but I think this would be a good choice. A higher tooth count might be good with the stock rear sprocket and larger engine but it seems to double the price.
https://www.bmikarts.com/Max-Torque...-a-34-Bore-for-Go-Kart-or-Minibike_p_721.html
See the second paragraph, and linked article, in post #4.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...he-large-mini-baja-bikes.167273/#post-1221718
I hate losing the ability to edit after 5 minutes. I meant a #35 chain CLUTCH for 16 bucks.
For just a little more money, I think the Max-Torque SS would be a much better, longer lasting clutch than the cheapest Chinese clutch you can find.
For max-cheap, here's a clutch and chain combo for $21.66 w/ free shipping but I wouldn't expect either to last very long.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=352174816308
Thanks for the replies and references, guys. I have a couple more questions. Should I go with the 10 tooth or 12 tooth clutch? I'm curious as to what difference either would make. I'm not sure if the chain is a 32 or 35. How do I tell the difference? I removed a master link and have it all soaking in motor oil right now. It was a tad rusty, so I'm soaking it to limber it up. And Rapidrob, yes, it does have a screw off oil filter. It's such a tight fit, I may have to remove the engine every time I change the oil. LOL Good to know that it's a tough engine. I thought it might be since it was on a pressure washer. It even has an oil pressure switch that will shut the engine down if the oil level gets too low!
