Pro series mini bike

V

VPD66

New Member
#61
#61
MikeySpeeds said:
Yeah that but I do so I can see it better. If you turn the screw out too much the linkage doesnt even touch the screw at all anymore, i dont like that. I adjust it so its out as far as it goes but yet still touches.
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Mine out of the box didn't touch the screw. I have a tiny tach and I see 3800-3900 rpm. I've been playing around with the governor spring trying to get my rpm to 4500-4800 rpm so far no luck. I know there are kart racing classes that run clone motors that have to have all governor parts intact and working. They are limited to 5500 no load rpm so I know there is a way to get more rpms with the governor working. I tried moving the governor spring to the other 2 holes in the governor lever and I didn't gain any rpm. I then thought that maybe if I shortened the governor spring it would give me more rpm. No suck luck, all it did was not allow my throttle to go all the way back to idle. I then decided that maybe if the spring was stiffer but the same length would change rpm. I took a zip tie and ran it through the center of the governor spring then cut the lock part off another zip tie and put it on the other end of the zip tie that goes through the center of the governor spring. What this would do is limit how far the governor lever could stretch the spring. I tried two different adjustments of the length of the zip tie with no rpm change. I then decide to run the zip tie all the way down to basically make the spring a solid link. This gave me much more throttle response on take off and when giving it more throttle from a part throttle it made it more responsive. It did nothing for top rpm. I suggest you try the zip tie mod I really like it and costs nothing. Also if you don't like it just cut the zip tie off. So now I'm back to rethinking what to modify to get more rpms.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#65
#65
Nathannewbie said:
I got only 46.75 which is great but I would think If the price drop is 50 then I would get over 50 with tax coming back too like last time.
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Maybe because it was the second price reduction you got, or maybe just dealing with a different customer service rep with a different knowledge level (that would be my guess), who knows...

You've gotten $100 back, be happy! :D
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#66
#66
Charles S said:
Maybe because it was the second price reduction you got, or maybe just dealing with a different customer service rep with a different knowledge level (that would be my guess), who knows...

You've gotten $100 back, be happy! :D
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I know I am!!! I asked about the other 3.45 dollars and she actually gave them too me!!!
She said it didn't include tax but it went down from 39-34-31 with the most recent!!!!
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#67
#67
VPD66 said:
Its very simple to remove. Take your torque converter cover off, remove the bolt that goes into the crankshaft on the drive clutch. You will then be able to take your drive clutch a part. The speed limiting sleeve is what the belt rides on. There is a steel sleeve with a bronze sleeve under it. Take the steel sleeve out but not the bronze sleeve. Clean your clutch parts with brake cleaner or lauqer thinner and lube them with a dry lube ( TriFlow is what I use). Then reassemble. I have found no negative affects from removing the ring. I did not do any wide open speed runs before and after but in the field I have I see an easy 5 mph gain after removing the speed limiting ring. I believe the limiting ring keeps the torque converter from shifting into the overdrive ratio that these torque converters have built into them.
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I think I'm going to do this mod.
I looked on the parts manual for the cvt on mega moto and understand which sleeve to take off.
Do I really need the dry lube? Could I just dab a little oil?
 
V

VPD66

New Member
#71
#71
Nathannewbie said:
I think I'm going to do this mod.
I looked on the parts manual for the cvt on mega moto and understand which sleeve to take off.
Do I really need the dry lube? Could I just dab a little oil?
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Don't grease it. The grease will collect dirt and belt dust and eventually make your clutch stick. The picture shows mine how it looked when I took it apart after about the first hour of use. The factory must have greased it. I use Tri-flow on mine. Tri-flow is easy to find at any hardware or auto parts stores. The speed limiting ring is the one on higher up in the lower left corner of the picture.
 

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Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#72
#72
VPD66 said:
Don't grease it. The grease will collect dirt and belt dust and eventually make your clutch stick. The picture shows mine how it looked when I took it apart after about the first hour of use. The factory must have greased it. I use Tri-flow on mine. Tri-flow is easy to find at any hardware or auto parts stores. The speed limiting ring is the one on higher up in the lower left corner of the picture.
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I think I'll get triflow it's way cheaper!!!!
 
Nathannewbie

Nathannewbie

Active Member
#73
#73
VPD66 said:
Don't grease it. The grease will collect dirt and belt dust and eventually make your clutch stick. The picture shows mine how it looked when I took it apart after about the first hour of use. The factory must have greased it. I use Tri-flow on mine. Tri-flow is easy to find at any hardware or auto parts stores. The speed limiting ring is the one on higher up in the lower left corner of the picture.
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Will you get me a link to the exact one you have?
 
V

VPD66

New Member
#76
#76
Charles S said:
Because cheaper is always better, right? :rolleyes:

Actually, the price per oz is similar. The Tri-flow is oil with additives, the Comet is a dry lube. If you must pinch pennies, use CRC Dry Moly Lube which seems to be pretty much the same stuff as the Comet.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Lu...VACPQ3PAPJM&psc=1&refRID=H1GF4V1V4VACPQ3PAPJM
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Tri-flow is a dry lube. I use it on the chain and the twist throttle too. It sprays on wet but then evaporates and leaves a dry film. A reputable go kart/mini bike parts supplier told me that is what he uses on all his TAV2 clutches. Also its not about price for me its availability. I can't go to the local hardware store and buy the Comet spray lube but I have at least 2 cans of Tri-flow around my house and shop at all times.
 
Charles S

Charles S

#77
#77
VPD66 said:
Tri-flow is a dry lube. I use it on the chain and the twist throttle too. It sprays on wet but then evaporates and leaves a dry film. A reputable go kart/mini bike parts supplier told me that is what he uses on all his TAV2 clutches. Also its not about price for me its availability. I can't go to the local hardware store and buy the Comet spray lube but I have at least 2 cans of Tri-flow around my house and shop at all times.
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Description says it's petroleum oil with PTFE (Teflon).
 
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