Quality Drill Bits

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

I discovered Fastenal the other day when a member shipped a bike using their shipping service. Store was less than a mile from the house and never knew what they stocked. Any way, I went back to because I needed decent drill bits. I've given up on the DeWalts and other brands available at the big boxes.

Fastenal's store brand bits are terrific and pretty reasonably priced. Drilled right through bolts with not a problem. If you have a store nearby, you might want to check them out.

 

[Sixpac440]

It also saves a few bucks if you can sharpen your own bits. There are videos on You Tube.

 

[massacre]

I have been using a drill index from Kimball Midwest, they last ok but if not they are cheap enough to replace.
Also Lawson gets an honorable mention, I bought a set of drill bits from them and have been happy with them so far.

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

It also saves a few bucks if you can sharpen your own bits. There are videos on You Tube.

Yes, I learned that skill a long time ago. The problem with today's bits seems to be how brittle they are and/or how fast they dull--I've had them dull on their first use (with cutting oil). I have a 20 yr old set of HSS Craftsman bits that are still serviceable, but over time I've lost a few.

 

[Sixpac440]

Buy Cobalt bits and avoid HSS (High Speed Steel) bits, that will help with longevity.

Split point bits tend to have a wider center web, they don't work as well after sharpening unless you put the split point back on.

I prefer coolant to cutting fluid, it helps eject the chips and doesn't leave behind residue. Also when the coolant is no longer making steam its time to add more. Cutting fluid can case harden tool steels if your not careful.

Speeds and feeds are important but harder to control with a hand drill so bits tend to get dull quicker than in a drill press.

When opening a hole from a smaller size to a larger size slow the drill down and keep the coolant on it.
The heat that is normally spread out on the whole major cutting edge of the drill bit is now only on the outer area and will heat up much faster dulling or heat checking your bit.

I make my living with drill bits ... I've smoked ALOT of them!

 

[massacre]

Some of the wax type lubes are OK, drilling oil is not a magic elixir like some of the old timers that I have met seem to think lol.

 

[Sixpac440]

The only time I can think that I might use anything but coolant (water with a rust inhibitor) is when drilling aluminum to keep it from loading on the bit.

Counter boars turn slowly, I like to use cutting/tap fluid when using them.

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

Buy Cobalt bits and avoid HSS (High Speed Steel) bits, that will help with longevity.

Split point bits tend to have a wider center web, they don't work as well after sharpening unless you put the split point back on.

I prefer coolant to cutting fluid, it helps eject the chips and doesn't leave behind residue. Also when the coolant is no longer making steam its time to add more. Cutting fluid can case harden tool steels if your not careful.

Speeds and feeds are important but harder to control with a hand drill so bits tend to get dull quicker than in a drill press.

When opening a hole from a smaller size to a larger size slow the drill down and keep the coolant on it.
The heat that is normally spread out on the whole major cutting edge of the drill bit is now only on the outer area and will heat up much faster dulling or heat checking your bit.

I make my living with drill bits ... I've smoked ALOT of them!

I bought a set of DeWalt Cobalts, and had nothing but problems with them--they broke easily even with light to moderate feed pressure. I use cutting oil and my drill press where I can. You give great advice on how best to keep from smokin'!!!:thumbsup:

 

[creia]

I can tell you which drill bits NOT to buy- Harbor Freight! They are really crappy and get dull very quickly.
Michael

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

I can tell you which drill bits NOT to buy- Harbor Freight! They are really crappy and get dull very quickly.
Michael

You are absolutely right...I won't touch them. I'm on my 4th "burn up and replace" angle grinder from them. I'm a glutton for driving over and swapping grinders out. Some of their tools are ok but others horrible.

 

[Clayon]

The key to making your drill bits last is your RPM. If you run too slow you can burn them up, run too fast the same thing. Once a high speed steel bit is overheated it is pretty much ruined. That's why when sharpening your bits dip in water every few strokes on the grinder. If your bit gets a burnt look to it you waited too long. A good set of high speed steel bits can last you a long time.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FOMOGO]

I know there are a lot more people on here with a lot more experience with this than me. I like to use a product called Rapid Tap. It drills the easiest of anything I have ever used. Here is a link. Rapid Tap Cutting Fluid I say if you are looking for something to help drilling holes that it is worth a try. I use it for everything I drill. And it taps a hole like nothing I have ever used. Give it a try, you can buy a 4 oz. bottle for $3.39. Anybody on here ever used it?

I will add that Travers Tool Co. is the link I posted and they have any kind of drill bit you could ever want or need. Look at there selection. Not cheap but they have good stuff.

And we have Fastenal's all over the place here because of all the suppliers for the BMW plant. I avoid them like the plague... There pricing is out of site here. Maybe it is regional pricing because of BMW and maybe it isn't but I have found Travers to be cheaper with a better product. Your mileage my vary....

 

[Clayon]

I agree, Rapid Tap is a great product. All the machine shops I've been to use Rapid Tap over others. I don't recommend Rapid Tap for aluminum drilling, I think it even says on the container. I use a product called A-9. It comes in a green container, and the fluid itself is also green, it stops the aluminum chips from clinging to your drill bit or tap and you get a much better finish on drilled holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cdownie3]

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Tw...sr=1-2&keywords=precision+twist+drill+bit+set

Best ones I have found . Go slow and use lube or coolant . I have fair success with a Drill Doctor on the smaller bits that I can't see well enough to sharpen anymore.

 

[Marv W]

Tools and their price. I ran a small job shop that made motorcycle tools. Chain breakers, special sockets.spring hooks.wrist pin pullers etc.
My experience with drills is that it almost always costs the same per. hole drilled. For home shop use I'd buy split point stub drills from a place like Travers Tool. The drills that you get from the local hardware store or chain stores are good for the occasional hole in wood but not much else.
Other tools like grinders that you are going to use a lot I'd buy a name US made brand. For occasional use the cheap import store ones will work. Buy 2 when they are on sale so when the first on craps out you can keep going.