Quick and dirty Honda-Doodle

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#1
While I'm waiting on the paint to get here for my ARCO build, I thought I'd make use of the GX200 Honda engine that came in it.

I got the Baja DB30 rolling chassis for cheap in another deal and it's sorta been sitting there, so...

Anyway, the chassis is nice, but the PO went a little a little crazy with the spray paint/primer (note tires, rear brake caliper, rotor, and cable overspray). I need to deal with that... Engine is just set in there, so I plan to cut the center out of the current mounting plate and weld a new one with the GX200 mounting pattern on top. The engine has no signs of a governor (got it that way), so rather than get a new throttle linkage, air filter assembly, etc. for the current carb, I'm just going with a Chi-kuni 22mm (since I have all the necessary parts to do that already, and the cost is more or less a wash).

I may order a new tank... The current tank needs painted and the cap leaks. I figure by the time I buy the stuff to take care of that, $22 for a new one might be the way to go. Anyone have any bad experience with the repop tanks? These seem to rate well:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=233442876553

IMG_2097SM.jpg
 
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Davis

Well-Known Member
#2
While I'm waiting on the paint to get here for my ARCO build, I thought I'd make use of the GX200 Honda engine that came in it.

I got the Baja DB30 rolling chassis for cheap in another deal and it's sorta been sitting there, so...

Anyway, the chassis is nice, but the PO went a little a little crazy with the spray paint/primer (note tires, rear brake caliper, rotor, and cable overspray). I need to deal with that... Engine is just set in there, so I plan to cut the center out of the current mounting plate and weld a new one with the GX200 mounting pattern on top. The engine has no signs of a governor (got it that way), so rather than get a new throttle linkage, air filter assembly, etc. for the current carb, I'm just going with a Chi-kuni 22mm (since I have all the necessary parts to do that already, and the cost is more or less a wash).

I may order a new tank... The current tank needs painted and the cap leaks. I figure by the time I buy the stuff to take care of that, $22 for a new one might be the way to go. Anyone have any bad experience with the repop tanks? These seem to rate well:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=233442876553

View attachment 262443
I’d buy a coleman tank. The cap is on the far right front on them.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#3
I’d buy a coleman tank. The cap is on the far right front on them.
Too late; I already ordered that one...:( That would be nice though!

With these, I'm looking at needing a long funnel to sneak between the upper frame rails (as is also usual with Predator conversions I've done)
 
#4
Love the maaco special. If you don't remove it or mask it off, its getting painted! Lol

I've used a couple of those ebay repop tanks and have never had an issue with any of them. Pretty decent for the price. Just wish they came in black at that price.
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#6
Ugh, got to cleaning the grunge off the engine and found out it’s only a GX160...:(

Ah well, a bit of a downgrade, but still a good motor that I don’t have much in!

Hope that 22mm carb isn’t too much for it...
 
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DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#7
Banged some dents out of the blower housing and painted it. Extracted the old carb mess and added the new stuff. Should look good with the new tank!

I noticed that the flywheel in this engine is aluminum. It doesn’t look aftermarket though... Seeing pics of these with steel flywheels, so that’s weird.
 

Attachments

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#15
Getting there...

Still need to hook-up a brake system, bend the exhaust out a little to clear the frame, install throttle and cable, install and tension chain (may or may not need roller), attach the chain guard, wire the kill switch, add fuel line and shut-off, and lol... see if it runs. :D

Anyone know what the bolt size should be to attach my chain guard? I expected metric, but an M8x1.25 (most frequently used motorcycle bolt in that diameter) starts but hangs up. Tried a 5/16-24, and the same thing. It's either a weird thread size, or the holes are just dirty... If someone here doesn't know off the top of their head, I'll keep investigating and figure it out eventually I guess...;) IMG_2108sm.jpg IMG_2109.JPG
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#17
Got it all put together last night (finally), and hope to test ride this eve.
Chain guard attached with 5/16-24 bolts; I guess the threads were dirty.
I went with the standard cable-operated caliper for the brake, fuel shut-off is a Briggs inline jobby from a mower.
The chain is adjusted with jack screws facing forward on the back end of the motor plate, so no roller.

The engine runs really nice and picks-up revs pretty quickly with the slide carb. Hoping it rides well!
 
#19
Very nice job restoring the DB-30 mini bike you have. The front number plate & custom chain guard is awesome looking & adds a cool custom look to it. I also like the key switch you added instead of using a normal kill switch. I did a restoration on a Dirt Bug DB-30S Mini Bike for my older brother last year & it turned out pretty good. Here is a few pictures of it completed I figured I would share with you.
 

Attachments

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#20
Very nice job restoring the DB-30 mini bike you have. The front number plate & custom chain guard is awesome looking & adds a cool custom look to it. I also like the key switch you added instead of using a normal kill switch. I did a restoration on a Dirt Bug DB-30S Mini Bike for my older brother last year & it turned out pretty good. Here is a few pictures of it completed I figured I would share with you.
Nice job, looks great!
 
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