Rat Rod/junk

#21
I just checked a couple of my 5 inch Manco wheels with the same drum you have and noticed that it fit perfectly onto a couple of them but not on two other halves. Just take a file to the center part of the drum until it fit over the wheel center. The drum will be centered onto the wheel with the six bolts anyways.
 
#22
i bought a file and it only took a few minutes to shave down the drum. everything fits very well and looks real nice. i'll post pics once i order a new axle. i miss-judged the length of what i needed. i ordered an 8" and there's only about 1 thread sticking out passed the frame. so i'll need a 9" or so. i got my intake in yesterday and my carburetor, mikuni 22mm, from affordablegokarts.com. picked up some bolts to mount it and got it installed this morning. came out pretty nice. the intake is a bit longer than the old one. i hear that boost some torque. we'll see. i'm nervous about adjusting the carb and the jetting. i'm obviously kinda new to all this.
 
#23
Good choice for the carb, is it a round slide? That carb will be easy to adjust and you shouldnt have to change any of the jets out. On the carb body there are 2 adj screws visible. The screw thats centered with the slide bore (usually a larger screw head) is your idle speed, turning it clockwise will increase idle speed, counter clockwise to slow it down. The other screw is for slow speed/idle mixture. That screw should be set at 1 turn out normally, a tad one way or the other for your weather. This screw makes it richer by turning it IN not out, turning it out leans the mixture. Tune this screw for good throttle response.

Mid rpm range mixture is controlled by raising (richening) or lowering (leaning) the long needle attached to your slide. Unscrew the big cap over the slide and pull the spring and slide assy out the top of the carb. Looking into the slide you will see how the needle is set with a c-clip. There are 5 notches in the top of the needle, the clip should be on the 3rd notch to start with.

Reading your spark plug will help you tune the carb, a black plug is too rich, a white plug is too lean, you want a tan colored plug. Try not to user your choke/enrichener.

Let us know how that works...

Will
 
#24
That post was exceptionally clear. That's exactly what I need! And yes the carb is a round slide. I upgraded carbs not only for the power increase and adjustability but also ease of connecting throttle cable directly and not messing with throttle linkage. My engine is ready to go in the bike but I'm waiting until I get my new back axle this week. Once I have my rear wheel and brake in perfect rolling order, I'll mount the engine and good to go!!! Next will be a round gas tank and a more appropriate seat. Also hoping to win a matching rim for the front off eBay. Thanks again for the help will and everyone else so far. I may be crying for help next week or 2 if I'm having carb problems.
 
#27
Got a few more things done on the bike. I was really hoping to score a matching front rim off ebay, but it went a little pricey for my liking. I got in some gaskets and got my crank case back on and all put back together without the governor. Got my Mikuni 22mm carb installed and my air filter for it as well. the original back axle when i bought it stuck out about 2 inches on each side. so i have ordered a new one, which was too short. i ordered another one that was a half inch longer, and it fits, but doesn't extend long enough to go all the way through the nut. i may have to order a 3rd one. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. bought a grinder and was able to cut some steel pipe spacers and got my back axle and brake assembly installed. i'm stuck with a couple problems i'll try and solve today:
1. the mikuni filter requires a special cable (which i didin't know). i was able to take my standard cheap throttle cable and file down the ball end into the perfect fit. and after all that, i was very proud of my success, installed it, and was not happy to see the cable wire has about an inch of extra slack. i'm not sure which end i want to mess with to try and shorten it. i've read about soldering, but i'm no welder. i'm a noob. i have soldered plumbing pipes for years..... but this makes me nervous. this is my love!
2. i need some kind of clamp to be able to keep the drum assembly from spinning. i thought about drilling a hole through the frame and using a long bolt, all the way through the frame and to the brake, but i don't like holes in my frame. still undecided on what to do.
 
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#28
if you wonder what that yellow spacer thing is on top of the carb, it's an electrical connecter that i drilled out a little tab and it worked great for now. i don't like cheap fixes like that so i'll be searching for a more permanent solution. i'm banking on a bicycle shop being able to shorten it for me with correct end/ends. on a side note, i've been searching ebay for one of those sexy little cylinder gas tanks, holy crap are those expensive!!! if anyone makes those as a side job, i'd love to give my money to the OldMiniBikes community and not some random ebay guy.
 
#30
1. the mikuni filter requires a special cable (which i didin't know). i was able to take my standard cheap throttle cable and file down the ball end into the perfect fit. and after all that, i was very proud of my success, installed it, and was not happy to see the cable wire has about an inch of extra slack. i'm not sure which end i want to mess with to try and shorten it. i've read about soldering, but i'm no welder. i'm a noob. i have soldered plumbing pipes for years..... but this makes me nervous. this is my love!
I didn't find adjusting the Mikuni to be "simple" and I had to get a few jets to get it dialed in, and after each jet change, I had to try different needle depths. LOL, just saying! I did get it in there though, and it's really good.

Regarding the cable, I used a piece of brass tube from ACE and soldered it on the cable. With your soldering experience, trust me, this will be a piece of cake. If I recall correctly, it was a 1/16 tube, and I used about an 1/8 length of it.
 
#31
Well i finally got a gas tank off ebay for a decent price. there's no petcock or cap. i think it fits quite nicely. i'm kinda stumped though......when looking at the mockup of where i want it, i'm not sure exactly how to mount it to the cross bar between the seat and forks. also, if anyone has any idea what caps these old tanks use, it'd save me from looking like an idiot when i go to ace and ask if they know. any input about anything would be very welcomed. i'm so close to having this thing up and running again!!!!
 
#33
Hey Erratic, what diameter is your tank? 4"? Try tacking some 4" exhaust clamp bases to the rail and sitting the tank on them or hanging it from them. You can get them at most big truck shops or Jegs...
 
#34
Hey Erratic, what diameter is your tank? 4"? Try tacking some 4" exhaust clamp bases to the rail and sitting the tank on them or hanging it from them. You can get them at most big truck shops or Jegs...
yes sir. it's basically 4". i'll take that advice. thx man.

PM sent to SimpleTom
 
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#35
It's been a while since i've updated my thread/build. i got the gas cap from simple tom - huge thanks again. the gas tank from ebay had some rust in it so i got a rust remover from home depot and it cleaned up nicely on the inside. i left the outside kinda beat up looking cuz i think it goes well with the bike. i got a longer bolt for my back axle and got all the spacers cut. had a local metal shop weld a little peg on the frame to act as a stopper for the brake setup so it doesn't spin when pressure applied. new bearing for back wheel. got the new key stock for clutch/drive shaft and installed the clutch again. according to max torque's website, they recommend not using the set screws. they prefer the shaft to have installed 2 small washers that act as spacers to allow the clutch to slide along the shaft. this morning i got a piece of 1/4 steel (kinda heavy) but created my own fuel pump plate. installed my new walbro fuel pump and ran the lines.
My to do list: install pulse fitting and line. fuel filter. kill switch (which i have). and find a seat.
eventually i'll replace the front tired/wheel setup with a 6" wheel to match the size of the back tire. let me know what ya think guys. i appreciate all the help.
 
#38
Do you have an oil fill cap up high on the case cover? If so you can make a pulse fitting by drilling and tapping the yellow plug or buy a fitting already made. It looks like you have a tall boss up there, like a dipstick tube, can you drill and tap the top of it to accept a fitting? I think your best pulse for the pump would be from the crankcase.
Heres one I made for mine:
 
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