Rattling then won’t run

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#41
I don’t think I put enough oil in cause I had to put it in through the dip stick cause the jackshaft was in the way of the other. I’ll get it off and put more in
I would not run that engine long before you change the oil again. The new predator motors I have used I ran 15 minutes and charged the oil, then 30 minutes and charged it again, then just change at recommended frequency. I always be told there may be some sand left over from casting and wanted to make sure I didn't have any problems.
 
#42
And it also wasn’t idling. And it took many pulls to start it even after the first few starts. The chain is straight and is all sliding into place well. I did have to loosen the back wheel to tighten it if that has anything to do with it
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#43
I put mine on a milk crate and spin the back tire by hand to make sure everything spins freely. You can just have someone hold the back up and spin the tire by hand to see if it makes the noise or you you can see something out of alignment.
 

Mr. Pink

Well-Known Member
#47
So I filled it up all the way in the dip stick plug. I should be fine right. Or does it have to be the other one. I just didn’t want to have to take the jackshaft off again to get to it.
Both the front and rear oil fill ports connect to the same sump.
You can use the the plug with the dipstick in whichever port is most convenient.
 
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#48
Then I did fill it all the way up. Must be the rear wheel. I lifted it and tried to turn it and it was pretty tight. Tighter than before. The chain is aligned straight so what could be that clanking noice? Maybe the stupid jackshaft?
 
#49
You say you filled it all the way up with oil. What do you mean. The engine requires 16oz of oil. NO more, and NO less. Not very hard to figure out when you have added 16oz. A empty water bottle if you don't have anything else to measure with. Like Mr Pink told you, it doesn't matter which side port you put the oil in. Have you even bothered to read the owners manual, because it sure doesn't sound like it.
 
#50
You say you filled it all the way up with oil. What do you mean. The engine requires 16oz of oil. NO more, and NO less. Not very hard to figure out when you have added 16oz. A empty water bottle if you don't have anything else to measure with. Like Mr Pink told you, it doesn't matter which side port you put the oil in. Have you even bothered to read the owners manual, because it sure doesn't sound like it.
I put enough oil in. I just needed to know if it mattered which plug.
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#51
Then I did fill it all the way up. Must be the rear wheel. I lifted it and tried to turn it and it was pretty tight. Tighter than before. The chain is aligned straight so what could be that clanking noice? Maybe the stupid jackshaft?
Could be the bearings in the jackshaft. Alot of people complain that the bearings from the factory are junk. Take the back chain of and spin the tire again and see if it still tight.
 
#52
The banging noice is coming from something on the rear when hitting the frame. If I lift up and drop the rear wheel it almost sounds the same. I loosened the sprocket and it pretty much stopped. But now I can’t get the engine to idle. I hold down the gas a little to get it to start but as soon as I let go it goes out.
Edit: when I spin the back tire hard it still bangs. It’s not the chain. Just from inside the sprocket it sounds like
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#53
The banging noice is coming from something on the rear when hitting the frame. If I lift up and drop the rear wheel it almost sounds the same. I loosened the sprocket and it pretty much stopped. But now I can’t get the engine to idle. I hold down the gas a little to get it to start but as soon as I let go it goes out.
Edit: when I spin the back tire hard it still bangs. It’s not the chain. Just from inside the sprocket it sounds like
Sounds like might be the bearings in the rim. Can't help with the motor issue because I was assuming that the engine was new. I would focus on fixing one thing at a time, figure out the wheel problem then move on to the engine.
 
#54
Well I’ve loosened and tightened and changed some stuff and for now it’s stopped. So the can get it to start more easily now but it won’t idle and when I hold the throttle there’s a squealing sound. I lubricated the clutch but it’s still doing. Sorry for being such of a pain I just want it running
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#55
Since it's not running correctly the first thing I would do is take all the aftermarket stuff off the engine and put on the original parts. If it runs correctly with the original parts then you know what the problem is and can change 1 thing at a time to try and find the problem. If you think the clutch is squealing just get a max torque not a cheap amazon one because they can be hit or miss as far as quality goes.
 
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