Rebuild question briggs 2 hp

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Uncle mike

Member
#1
#1
My first briggs rebuild for my little cat. Model 61102. 2 hp . I had it bored .010 , new piston and rings. Ring gap.011 . Piston to wall .003. This thing is tight! I need a wrench to turn it. Is this normal or am I missing something?
 
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Uncle mike

Member
#6
#6
Briggs 2 hp

creia said:
What technique/tools were used to measure the piston to cylinder wall clearance?
Michael
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I'm not sure, but a reputable machine shop did it with piston on site , the piston slides good without the rings. I will check gap again and give another try tomorrow ..
 
creia

creia

#7
#7
Uncle mike said:
I'm not sure, but a reputable machine shop did it with piston on site , the piston slides good without the rings. I will check gap again and give another try tomorrow ..
Click to expand...
OK- I would assume (hope?) that they did it accurately with a T-Bore gauge for the cylinder bore and a micrometer or caliper for the piston. I asked because the "backyard mechanic" way is to stick a feeler gauge between the piston and the cylinder wall which is not very accurate at all.
Michael
 
The_Ruppster_86

The_Ruppster_86

New Member
#8
#8
Were the internal components properly lubricated during assembly? There's more resistance when turning over a dry engine. Also check and make sure the flywheel isn't binding on the ignition coil.
 
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creia

creia

#9
#9
X2 what the Ruppster said above^^^^ Who put the engine back together? Best practice is to use "assembly lube" on all of the internals which is specifically made for this purpose.
Michael
 
U

Uncle mike

Member
#10
#10
briggs 2 hp LESSON LEARNED

Hey Fellas , Thanks for the guidance. The machinist did use a bore gauge and micrometer for the piston fit. He also checked the crank , it was round and well within tolerance. The ring gap was triple checked and good. Engine assembly lube was used liberally and I was the assembler, ( herein lies the problem ! ). After reading the manual 20 times on line and multiple youtube videos I got a little over confidant/Excited and had the piston and rod on/in back wards ( binding?). Rookie Move! :eek:ut: . I assumed this little engine was " simple" as I have rebuilt much larger flathead and OHV engines ( many years ago) . After re installing rod and piston it spins freely as it should .

MY LESSONS LEARNED. Pay attention. Be Patient. I need hard copy directions and data in front of me. Don't be afraid to ask for help. And be prepared for the whippin post when you tell on yourself.

My next "Feat of Strength" will be the recoil rewinding process.. I hope it wont be a finger pinchin dog cussin fiasco like the last one I did 40 years ago..

Thanks again for all the help guys... More to follow and Back to the project.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#12
#12
Uncle mike said:
My next "Feat of Strength" will be the recoil rewinding process.. I hope it wont be a finger pinchin dog cussin fiasco like the last one I did 40 years ago..
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I knew you'd figure it out. I'm going to be doing a Briggs rewinding job in a couple of days myself. You should be getting that Cat guard and decal today.
 
U

Uncle mike

Member
#13
#13
Havasu Dave said:
I knew you'd figure it out. I'm going to be doing a Briggs rewinding job in a couple of days myself. You should be getting that Cat guard and decal today.
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Dave, I got the Cat guard and Decal, opened it last night. Awesome!!! Thank you kindly for reaching out and helping. I will return the favor anytime.

Thanks again, Mike
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#14
#14
:thumbsup: About that recoil...I also have some bumpers coming in, (68848) since the old ones were worn enough to allow some movement. Also have a 5 mm cord coming. Anyway, having wrestled these a few times myself I found a video with a technique I'll try. I also have some instructions with the new spring, but haven't broke out my magnifying glass yet to read them.

[video=youtube;2X4NvvAuqoo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X4NvvAuqoo[/video]
 
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