Resurrecting Old Yeller

#1
This is what I started with. This 69 Rupp Banchi was my two brothers and myself first minibike. I snatched it out of the farm house basement back in 82 when my Dad sold the farm. I had it sitting around every since. Back at the beginning of February a close friend gave me a HS40 for it as the original HS25 was long gone before I snatched it. So I decided I better do something with this Old Yeller


 
#3
Nice bike, glad you had the foresight to snatch it when you did.

Keep us posted, and congrats, on still having your first mini bike...:thumbsup:
 
#7
I actually started working on the engine first. It was originally off a snow blower. The head came off to check the bore and the valves then one thing led to another. Anybody that knows me knows that I don't like to leave well enough alone. The next thing you know I am porting and polishing along with getting a cam from Tim Isky. The bore by the way still had all the cross hatches in it so I figured that engine didn't have a whole lot of hours.












 
#12
Yes it might be a little over done on the power but my motto is better too much than not enough. Yes it will be nice to go for a spin on the old girl again :smile:
 
#13
To answer your question Jim I was going to stay with points and condenser for now see how they work out. This is a bit of a science project in some ways. :shrug: :weld:
 
#16
To answer your question Jim I was going to stay with points and condenser for now see how they work out. This is a bit of a science project in some ways. :shrug: :weld:
Many moons ago I worked at and managed a repair shop that was a dealer for Briggs and Tecumseh. The old points worked fine, but were a pain to get too. We used to use a business card as a spacer for the coil/flywheel. New points 16 thou, old at 12.( in a pinch, the old pull tabs from pop cans would work as a feeler gauge.) New ones wore in was the idea. When the add on pointless ignition came out we thought it was a magic cure. We would also "tune" the points with different condensers. If you looked at the wear on the points contact surface there would be erosion on one side, build up on the other. But using different condensers we could make them wear more even and last longer. I had a chart at one time that showed which way to go on condensers and what the numbers meant. Sorry for rambling on, us old guys do that, lol.
 
#18
Hey there Jim I didn't mind the rambling as you put it at all. I like hearing another experienced point of view sounds like you been around done a few things like my self. The info you gave sounds similar to what I have seen and heard years ago in automotive. By the way your dating yourself when you talk about the pull tabs on cans. I think the points are set at around 16 but you reminded me I better check the coil. Thanks
 
#19
After porting and doing the valves it was time to work on changing the color. So I partial assembled and taped things up and went to town.
Before I sand blasted it I set it in the frame for grins and giggles. Which is getting ahead of things a little I know.











 
#20
After sand blasting the red off I was trying to decide which color to go with, the original white or go black. The black won out because I thought that would look better with the yellow that I was planning to paint the frame.
 
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