That turned out really nice.
Can you take a photo of how you ran the throttle linkage for me? I'm trying various methods to control the butterfly valve in the carb.
I can get you an actual pic of my linkage this evening, but I pretty much just modified my stock snowblower linkage to mimic the minibike linkage pictured below (retaining the stock governor).
Mine had a detent set-up in the original application (for constant throttle), so I had to grind the pivot pin off (see #1) and remove the detent plate to allow for free movement of the pivot arms. When reattaching the the arms later, use a screw with a wide head or a washer, and back it up with a nylon locking screw so that you can allow for free movement of the arms, but not have the screw vibrate off
I added a cable housing clamp (probably off a riding mower engine) from my box of goodies at position #2. Sometimes a standard linkage will have the clamp screwed in at the bottom of the linkage (to work in the other direction), and you can just move it to the top.
I then drilled the main arm so that I could swage a cable end clamp into it out of a $2-3 cable repair kit I got off
eBay (kit link and specific part circled red in pic below). This mimics the barrel end cable socket at #3. Before swaging the cable end in (it's got a tubular projection that you can pass through the hole and use a taper punch to flare such that it is held in the hole but free to rotate). Before swaging, you'll need to drill a hole through it (see red dot in pic for location) that allows the throttle cable to pass though and be clamped by the bolt when threaded in. This reminds me, on my new throttle assembly, the throttle cable had a little end on it. I had to cut it off to pass through, but before doing so, soldered the line for about .5" from the end piece up. This allowed me to use my Dremel cut-off wheel to cut it off without any of the strands fraying.
Lastly, you need a throttle return spring of some sort. I used an old Predator one I had lying around and hooked one end to the swaged in cable end, and the other to a little bracket I made. This allows the #3 arm to always retract to the left for idle, and be pulled to the right by the cable for throttling up.
#4 is a throttle limiting tab that may or may not be present on your stock linkage. You can bend it flush or cut it off.
Overall, this is a bit of trouble to save $20 or so on buying a ready-made factory linkage, but when you pay $20-40 for your derelict snowblower engine donor, it just offends one's sensibilities, lol...
Kinda the same reason I made my own air filter mount for a $5 pod instead of buying a factory air cleaner.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=401776538323