Roadster 2 brake shoes
- Thread starter frankthetank
- Start date
someone suggested this to me, and it worked well. you can buy brake material from McMaster Carr. cut to length, and JB weld it to the old shoe plate (after you remove the old brake pad.) I've done this on several bikes i could not get shoes for and it works pretty well. about $10 of brake material does a bunch of bikes. But to be honest, if it's only $30 to get new shoes, frankly i would probably just pay that. It's not a lot of money and way less hassle. and it's a rupp... that's generally an expensive bike.
I've done research on bonding disc brake shoes (properly) and it is more of a process than one would imagine. Even in refacing the band brake of my tote gote, I found it a process, and somewhat difficult to do properly using the limited tools in my garage. A big problem is the "asbestos free" strips of junk McMaster-carr sells. It is not as pliable, and seems thicker than the original asbestos cloth commonly used 50+ years ago. I still need to re-do mine with something more similar to the asbestos cloth it originally had.
First off, even with band brakes, you're supposed to tape off the faces of the brake shoes (wearing gloves) because any oil, even from your skin can affect the stopping ability of the brakes. If you have band brakes, such as mine, most in the 20th century were riveted to the band using special brake lining rivets which are punched together. This means you have to buy a brake riveting jig (mine was made for model-T brakes), which can be bought as a kit that includes the important countersink drill bit used to countersink the brake shoe lining, as so the brake hub does not become scored by the rivets. The brake jig clamps in your vice. After countersinking the band to accept the rivet, you strike the rivet with a precise size punch to permanently clamp the brake shoe lining to the band. Old rivets may be drilled out and new, precise length ones, purchased online. Make sure axle grease does not get on the shoes. In some cases, glue or an adhesive may have been applied in addition or in replacement of the rivets. Using adhesive is a more contemporary way of bonding band brake linings to the band.
Disc brakes are actually meant, in a professional sense, to be bonded in a high-temp infrared oven under clamped pressure using a special high-temp adhesive made specifically for brakes. This is not JB Weld - but rather is made specifically for brake purposes. This brake adhesive is not a product commonly available to the public, but brake manufacturers and select brake shops may have this brake adhesive. Nor do most people have access to an industrial electric oven which runs on 240/480 volts to cure some minibike/classic car brake pads.
I have seen services online offering to re-line brakes, primarily catering to the classic car market. I have wondered how good some of those services are, might be best to have the brake sent out to be re-lined. The downside of shelling things out is worrying about places (or courrier) loosing the often one-of-a-kind parts some vintage toys have, not to mention the loss in satisfaction of "doing it yourself". And if they'll do the job right at all.
But I honestly get the feeling that to "properly" bond brakes, especially disc brakes, it will take more specialized adhesives/ovens/clamps than most garages and hobbyists will readily have access to.
Edit: I would be interested in trying this Raybond adhesive from Raybestos to bond some brakes. http://adhesives.raybestospowertrain.com/
First off, even with band brakes, you're supposed to tape off the faces of the brake shoes (wearing gloves) because any oil, even from your skin can affect the stopping ability of the brakes. If you have band brakes, such as mine, most in the 20th century were riveted to the band using special brake lining rivets which are punched together. This means you have to buy a brake riveting jig (mine was made for model-T brakes), which can be bought as a kit that includes the important countersink drill bit used to countersink the brake shoe lining, as so the brake hub does not become scored by the rivets. The brake jig clamps in your vice. After countersinking the band to accept the rivet, you strike the rivet with a precise size punch to permanently clamp the brake shoe lining to the band. Old rivets may be drilled out and new, precise length ones, purchased online. Make sure axle grease does not get on the shoes. In some cases, glue or an adhesive may have been applied in addition or in replacement of the rivets. Using adhesive is a more contemporary way of bonding band brake linings to the band.
Disc brakes are actually meant, in a professional sense, to be bonded in a high-temp infrared oven under clamped pressure using a special high-temp adhesive made specifically for brakes. This is not JB Weld - but rather is made specifically for brake purposes. This brake adhesive is not a product commonly available to the public, but brake manufacturers and select brake shops may have this brake adhesive. Nor do most people have access to an industrial electric oven which runs on 240/480 volts to cure some minibike/classic car brake pads.
I have seen services online offering to re-line brakes, primarily catering to the classic car market. I have wondered how good some of those services are, might be best to have the brake sent out to be re-lined. The downside of shelling things out is worrying about places (or courrier) loosing the often one-of-a-kind parts some vintage toys have, not to mention the loss in satisfaction of "doing it yourself". And if they'll do the job right at all.
But I honestly get the feeling that to "properly" bond brakes, especially disc brakes, it will take more specialized adhesives/ovens/clamps than most garages and hobbyists will readily have access to.
Edit: I would be interested in trying this Raybond adhesive from Raybestos to bond some brakes. http://adhesives.raybestospowertrain.com/