Rupp TC1 Jackshaft Disassembly

furyus

furyus

New Member
#1
#1
Wow, taking my Black Widow down to the bare frame has turned out to be a lot more work than I anticipated. A previous owner either was a massive gorilla or used power tools to install the rear shocks. The little bushings in the shock eyes were completely distorted and had actually started pulling through the nuts. the seat pan was also bent from the amount of torque used to install the shocks. Took a bunch of time to remove those rear shocks.

Now I'm trying to disassemble the torque converter jackshaft. I've never done so before, and know squat about how these things go together or come apart. I've done a search, and saw "set screws" mentioned, but I don't think that applies to the Rupp set up for '71. I do not see set screws in my parts break down. I do see a key, but don't see how to get at it. I'm sure corrosion is part of the problem, even though the shaft itself spins freely. I've got the shaft soaking in Liquid Wrench right now. My fear is that Magilla Gorilla put the jack shaft together, too, because that pup will not break loose. It may be optical illusion, but the end of the shaft by the flanges looks a little egg-shaped. I'm guessing I'm going to have to apply heat, but that'll mean taking it to work and spending lunchtime on it, which is fine except that I want to work on it today, dang it!

Any good tips or help on TC1 tear-down would be sincerely appreciated.

furyus
 
minibikedude

minibikedude

Active Member
#2
#2
You will need to break both nuts loose on the jackshaft before removing the rear wheel and chain,It will make it easier. What I do, Is remove the Driven pieces first. If the three prong guide will not come off, do not pry or pull on it!, They will break and there 40 bucks for a new one. Take a drift pin and hammer and tap on end of the jackshaft carefully.You may want to put the nut on to cover the ends of the threads to protect them. Tap it through until you can pull it out the sprocket side. them you can drive the 10 tooth sprocket out the same way, You can set the jackshaft in your vise instead of the bike to drive it off.
Here's a break down Brandt has on his site of the Rupp T/C.
 
furyus

furyus

New Member
#3
#3
minibikedude said:
You will need to break both nuts loose on the jackshaft before removing the rear wheel and chain,It will make it easier. What I do, Is remove the Driven pieces first. If the three prong guide will not come off, do not pry or pull on it!, They will break and there 40 bucks for a new one. Take a drift pin and hammer and tap on end of the jackshaft carefully.You may want to put the nut on to cover the ends of the threads to protect them. Tap it through until you can pull it out the sprocket side. them you can drive the 10 tooth sprocket out the same way, You can set the jackshaft in your vise instead of the bike to drive it off.
Click to expand...
I guess I like to learn things the hard way, minibikedude. The rear wheel is already off. I can't even get to point you're discussing because I can even get either nut off the shaft by the flanges or the sprocket! The nut by the flanges is distorted and oblong ever so slightly - someone over did it when they put it together. The shaft itself moves freely in the frame. Here's a question that shows how much I know: are these nuts standard or are the threads reversed, as in tighten counter-clockwise and loosen clockwise (lefty tighty righty loosey?)

I appreciate you taking the time to write.

furyus
 
minibikedude

minibikedude

Active Member
#4
#4
Standard threaded nuts, You can use two sockets wrenches to break them loose, Which ever nut breaks loose. drive out the T/C assemble from the bike, Then clamp the center part of the jackshaft in a vise and get the other nut off,
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#5
#5
I think they're def. lefty loosy. You should've left the tire on. with the chain. It's a lot easier to sit on the bike while trying to get the nut off. you have to pry up the little tab the turn the screw
. I sat on the seat and used a 1/2" ratchet. I held the driven with my right hand and the sprocket with my left. you'll get it. Be careful when you get it loose. There's a bunch of stuff in there you def. don't want to lose. There's a spring, and a key in there. I took everything off real slow, one piece at a time and wrote down everything that came out and when. then put everything in a large zip lock bag. I also bought a new spring and bearings for the jackshaft.
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#6
#6
oh yeah! your gonna need an impact wrench to get the Drive off the engine(if you're removing the clutch). I bought one of those manual ones that have a spring in them where you place the wrench on a bolt or a screw, then hit the end with a hammer or mallet. The thing sorta spins as you bang the hell out of it and knocks the rust loose from the bolt! someone told me to just use a hammer, but it didn't work.
 
furyus

furyus

New Member
#8
#8
jrzmac said:
I think they're def. lefty loosy. You should've left the tire on. with the chain. It's a lot easier to sit on the bike while trying to get the nut off. you have to pry up the little tab the turn the . I sat on the seat and used a 1/2" ratchet. I held the driven with my right hand and the sprocket with my left. you'll get it. Be careful when you get it loose. There's a bunch of stuff in there you def. don't want to lose. There's a spring, and a key in there. I took everything off real slow, one piece at a time and wrote down everything that came out and when. then put everything in a large zip lock bag. I also bought a new spring and bearings for the jackshaft.
Click to expand...

I'm a little late on doing this while the wheel is still on! Maybe next time. The Liquid Wrench did the job, at least partially. I was able to break the nut loose on the sprocket side, but the sprocket itself won't budge. It's keyed, right? I see a key way but I don't see how I'm going to get the little bugger out.

This bike looks like it hasn't been cleaned in a couple of decades. The amount of grease mixed in with dirt is amazing. I can't wait to get it all cleaned up. The original paint still looks good in many places.

You can bet I'll be paying close attention when I finally do get this assembly apart. I use zip-lock bags and 3x5 cards, too. Keeps everything organized and dry.

Thanks for writing, jrzmac.

furyus
 
minibikedude

minibikedude

Active Member
#9
#9
The jackshaft is keyed and there's a key in there with the sprocket. There should not be a set screw. Soak it penetrating lube and the use a punch and tap on the end of the jackshaft until you drive it through, Make sure someone holds on to the driven assemble, If it falls to the floor you will ding the aluminum drive flanges,
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#10
#10
I never got the sprocket side off. I couldnt get the chain cover thing off, so I just slid everything off from the driven side. If you get the nut off, theres a keyed washer that rides in the keyway. slide that off then theres a washer. everything should slide right off and the key should stay on the shaft. A hammer and a punch should knock the key off. dont loose anything though. then when you put it all back, slide the key in a little and tap it home with the a little nail set and hammer. it'll slide right in, dont force it....
 
furyus

furyus

New Member
#12
#12
jrzmac said:
I never got the sprocket side off. I couldnt get the chain cover thing off, so I just slid everything off from the driven side. If you get the nut off, theres a keyed washer that rides in the keyway. slide that off then theres a washer. everything should slide right off and the key should stay on the shaft. A hammer and a punch should knock the key off. dont loose anything though. then when you put it all back, slide the key in a little and tap it home with the a little nail set and hammer. it'll slide right in, dont force it....
Click to expand...

I removed the chain cover so I have excellent access. I do not see a keyed washer. The nut was right next to the sprocket. There is a hole in the side of the sprocket like it was made for a set screw, but I don't see a screw in there.

Thanks for the help.

furyus
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#13
#13
yeah I think there should be a set screw holding the sprocket on? Minibikedude might know better. I would think when you get that sprocket off, you could just slide the whole thing out the driver side. then try to get everything off on a vise or something!
 
furyus

furyus

New Member
#14
#14
No set screw, and the sprocket is not threaded. I've got it almost all the way off now, but I'm by myself and need another set of hands to hold the flanges while I get the last bit out. Trying to hold a punch and hammer while holding the flanges doesn't work, but I did try contorting myself enough to do it.

Thanks minibikedude and jrzmac very much for walking me through this.

furyus
 
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