Score: Lincoln IdealArc 250 AC/DC

Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#1
#1
While I love my Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC stick welder, I scored a flat top Lincoln IdealArc 250 (300 Amps AC, 250 Amps DC) this morning.

Once I get the Lincoln fitted out with leads and wheels, I can start saving for the Hobart IronMan 230 with MIG torch + spoolgun. The Miller T-Bolt will be up for sale soon, offsetting the cost of leads for the Lincoln. Copper is expensive, so some shopping is in order. I have no plans to weld at more than 150 Amps so I can use the more flexible, slightly smaller leads.

If anybody knows of a deal on leads, that would be handy!

I have a local welding guy that does TIG and MIG for me now, he is an artist at it, and I think I will just pay him for what little TIG I have done.
 
Txpowdercoater

Txpowdercoater

New Member
#4
#4
you CAN tig with the new machine! get a torch and start practicing scratch start and current settings for various metals and thicknesses.
have fun!, that is a score indeed.
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#5
#5
Txpowdercoater said:
you CAN tig with the new machine! get a torch and start practicing scratch start and current settings for various metals and thicknesses.
have fun!, that is a score indeed.
Click to expand...
Yes Sir, a steal: $300 and drove 50 miles one way to get it.

Have a new TIG torch on hand. Never tried scratch start, but no time like today. Seems like the tungsten will get corrupted.

Spoiled by technology: I am accustomed to hi-frequency start, foot pedal Amp control, and post-flow.

Thanks for the encouragement!
 
Neck

Neck

Growing up is optional
#8
#8
Double ought or 2/0, is huge. Realistically, what kind of amps, or what size rod will you be burning?
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#10
#10
Neck, thank you for that particular chart which includes Voltage drop over distance.

Wow, a size 2 cable will pass 300 Amps, and even factoring in for AC as it advises, I doubt I will ever run rods big enough to use that.

Yes, double ought cable is heavy stuff and it does not bend as well as 2 gauge. I see how this can mess up my stinger hand, and according to this chart it is ridiculously over sized for my efforts.

Typically weld between 75 and 125 Amps, burning 6011, 6013, and 7018 rods. Rarely weld anything thicker than 1/4" because I have never owned a DC welder bigger than the 150 Amp Thunderbolt buzzbox. I would not want to buy cables too small, but double ought is way too big, I see.

Was wondering about connecting a shorter, thinner stinger to the end of the double ought, but its overkill.

Thank you very much for your time to advise.
 
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Neck

Neck

Growing up is optional
#11
#11
Well if your doing a Lot of welding at 125 amps or lower a short whip lead of 10 feet or less of #4 will take a lot of fatigue off your wrist and make stinger control much easier. But the cost of the quick disconnect might make you change your mind. Anyway, I have some leads I have been hanging onto for probably 20 years, somewhere out in my garage. So long I cant remember what size they were. The welder is long gone, and I have since bought a M.I.G., so chances of me ever using them again is slim.

If your interested I'll go see if I can dig them out.
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#12
#12
That one site offers a mechanical splicer (not a quick disconnect) that can splice dissimilar gauge wires. It would allow a 4 gauge whip to be put on a hefty welding lead.

The Miller Thunderbolt has size 2 leads and I get along with that thickness okay. For now I will just use those leads (the IdealArc has the factory lugs on the terminals) as they are about 25 feet long.

Would certainly consider buying the leads you have, no rush to dig those out. Shipping to Florida might be quite a bit, but I would like to know what you want for those.

Thank you very kindly.

Jon
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#15
#15
Always Read the Instructions

Before investing in long leads, slighty longer power cord and plug to match my shop, ground clamp, stinger, wheels, and making a handle for this machine, figured I ought to lay down some test welds.

Popped off the top and side panels for inspection, nice, looks brand new inside, dusty but great condition. Build date in 1993, no discernable wear on the polarity or power switches. Weird, some goofus dismantled the Amp indicator and kind of bent it. Easy enough to sort out, but curious.

Previous owner installed a 50 Amp 220 Volt three-prong cord, but omitted a strain relief at the rear panel. I hate wiring like that, which is a main reason I went inside it.

Additional Score: this welder has the power factor capacitors.

Unbolted the power cord, slid a strain relief in the chassis, and hooked it back up. Drilled and tapped the Tweco lugs so the Miller Thunderbolt leads could be used for a test weld. Left the panels off and fired it up at 90 Amps DC.

The fan barely turned, so quiet. I thought wow, this thing even has a thermostatically-controlled fan. Struck an arc with it and it barely welded. Aha, that bent Amp indicator is off... cranked up the Amps to 125 indicated, and it groaned and moaned and barely laid a bead on 14 gauge sheet metal running a tiny 6013 rod. Bad rectifiers?

Switched to AC and a 7018AC rod... awful.

Power off, disappointment setting in, I read the wiring diagram on an inside panel... it handles three Voltages, and is shipped from the factory wired to the highest Voltage. Checking the Volt tap... yep... wired for 480 Volts!

Moved the H5 tap to the low 230 Volt winding, plugged in and BOOM!!! The fan started with authority and made a big roar. Striking an arc, it has major Amps. This thing lays down a powerful, steady arc.

I have to imagine the prior owner never got it to work, and after 20 years parked in the corner, sold it for 300 bucks from a location without power to test it with at all. The leads probably went to whatever new welder he bought, no doubt concluded his shop "just didn't have enough power" to run this beast. Betcha they took apart the Amp indicator since it seemed to indicate too low.
 
Inventorpardue

Inventorpardue

Member
#17
#17
Neck, no its definitely single phase.

Changed one switched leg from the single phase power switch to a different transformer tap. The other switched leg is hardwired to one end of the windings.

Have wired many 3 phase machines, but have yet to see 480 Volt single phase in the USA. I have seen 460 single phase. If its a typo, they committed it twice on one label.

By using a clever combination of taps, it can do 208 Volt, 230 Volt, 480, and 575 Volt single phase, 50 and 60 Hertz is possible by changing the power correction capacitor taps.

Jon
 
Neck

Neck

Growing up is optional
#18
#18
Well I guess if you have a shop that's wired for 480 three phase you just run a single phase sub panel. I can see how that would come in handy, it's just odd.
I found the leads. Their size 1. Now I just need to stretch them out to see how long they are.
 
Neck

Neck

Growing up is optional
#20
#20
No problem! And they are both 50 ft. long, they both have the Tweco male quick disconnects, and one has a ground clamp. I could find no insulation breeches.
 
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