Shed construction advice

Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#1
#1
My tumble down work shop has reached th end of its usefull life.

No debating or repair its 30 years old and rotten.

So I am considering a 2 by 4 construction 12 by 16 to replace it.

Here are my thoughts....

2 by 6 presure treated with 16 inch centers on the joices, floor with 3/4 inch tounge and groove on 6 piller blocks .

2 by 4 8 foot walls two walls with no door or window so I thought maybe I could cheat and use 24 inch centers.
For the other two walls ( one 12 foot one 16 both with 48 by 24 windows and a the long wall witha 36 inch door ) I will use 16 inch centers.

Outside 1/2 or what ever sheeting I can find on the cheap and same for the roof ( there I will probablty use 16 inch center because of snow load ).

Inside will be insulated and sheeted too as will the celing.

Contents, my minis and projects, tools compressor drill press welder grinder ect nothing too heavy

How does that sound?
Do I need 16 inch center walls on on such a small building?

I am not a carpenter, but every kit shed I looked at left me feeling I was wasting my money because there is just no dam wood in them these days.

All opinoins welcome

NOS
 
catfishman

catfishman

Active Member
#2
#2
my mother purchased me a shed kit from lowes a few years back, she bought the 10x10, or 10x8, i cannot remember, anyway i paid the difference to make it a 12x10, now it is filled up wish i woul have went bigger. the kits are not worth the money, you can look up plans for free. also mine are 16 on center
 
TeamCheap

TeamCheap

New Member
#4
#4
It sounds pretty good but I'd just go with 16" O.C, it will only be a few extra boards and make it stronger.

I plan on building the same sized shed myself but i'll pour a monolithic slab for the floor/footing and set J-bolts into the concrete to bolt the wall studs down.

Carter lumber sells the long boards I'd need to make matching rafters to my garage even though the shed will be 20 feet from the back of the garage.I plan to later fill that gap with a concrete pad and a "carport".:smile:
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#5
#5
catfishman said:
my mother purchased me a shed kit from lowes a few years back, she bought the 10x10, or 10x8, i cannot remember, anyway i paid the difference to make it a 12x10, now it is filled up wish i woul have went bigger. the kits are not worth the money, you can look up plans for free. also mine are 16 on center
Click to expand...
I looked at lowes.
10 by 12 for 900 everything included.
But it felt cheap and those were not even realy 2 by 4 and not on even a 24 inch center so insulation was out of the question.

Also how do you insulate a floor ?
Easiest way that is....
I was thinking of some 2 inch foam glued with construction adheazive

I already have the windows from my last house renovation.

I can't buy a kit localy and US venders are not available up here.

No ground hogs up in Norther Ontario ( well there are some but they live in the woods.
I live in teh burbs and only have to worry about bears and moose lol
 
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TeamCheap

TeamCheap

New Member
#6
#6
I have two sheds right now that have wood floors...............the ground hogs love living under there.:shrug:

My old shed I built was 14 by 20 and shaped like a barn and was fully insulated downstairs the upstairs was not completely insulated.
i used an electric heater with themrostat setting and it kept it 50 degrees all winter (tools didnt rust) and I could go out there and turn up the heat and be working in a tee shirt in about 1/2 hour.
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#8
#8
buckeye said:
Insulate under the floor joists. Just roll fiberglass inbetween the joists.
Click to expand...
How do you deal with the mice?
I can seal up the wall well enough but the open floor underneath not so easy...
And I worry about moister since this will be sitting on pier blocks.
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#10
#10
This is what I mean to replace...
Its 12 by 12 and sitting on logs ( log floor too ) with ruble at the corners.

I figuere it was built inthe early 70s and is made of scrap.
I tried to dig it up and jack it up to replace the floor last months and the building begane to fall apart.

It does not owe me anything andI have enough room behind for the extra 4 feet.

Build the floor and walls and rip down the old and move the new in its place sdo I can get my stuff in ASAP.

I have procrastinated too long time to build
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#13
#13
You can use 2X6 for the walls on 2' centers. Give you lots more insulating quality. Solid wood is a poor insulator. 6" fiberglass is much better. Use pressure treated on your bottom sill piece. I wouldn't use tongue and groove either. You can buy pressure treated 4X8 plywood. Or use regular 4X8 and paint the bottom before you install it. Make sure your finished framing is less then 12X16 so you can use 4X8 v grooved sheeting on the outside and not have any waste. I like 3/4" but you might find some 5/8" that will work. You can pre paint the sheeting on the inside with mis matched color paint to seal it from moisture. Make sure you get the ends sealed up so they don't wick up moisture. Finish the outside with stain and top coat or prime and paint.
 
oldsledz

oldsledz

Active Member
#15
#15
I would go with 16 inch centers it will only cost 15-20 dollars more on such a small building.
Heat goes up so I wouldn't bother insulating the floor.

For mice get some poison from a farm supply store.
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#17
#17
It gets cold up here in Canada.
So I keep flip flopping on the floor.

Hmm.....

I'll price the foam in 1 inch and maybe I can glue and strap it to the underside of the plywood floor between the joices.

Depends I know foam is expnsive these days....

I don't like to poison anything.
I have a dog, and inspite of the troubles with wildlife around here ( except the bears I wsih I could shoot them on sight ) I would not want to do them any harm not even the mice....
Lots of snakes around here and I like them ( even the rattle snakes, we just have little ones and they are rare I would not want to harm them. )

So 16 inch center seems like comon advice.
presure treat the wall sill sounds good....
And I have a gallon of left over presure treating stuff my chum used on his floor I was going to hit the floor with anyways....

I intended on sealing and painting everything already but I will be sure to do the endges well

Why not use tounge and grove on the floor?
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#18
#18
It is high dollar, for good TnG. You get cheap stuff and the knots will fall out and you will have holes in the floor. PITA to lay it right. Takes forever and you really need a special floor nailer to do it right. It really is not made for what you are trying to do, you need a subfloor first.
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#19
#19
If you want a real sturdy floor out of 3/4" plywood, take some carpenters wood glue, you know the yellow stuff. Lay it on your joists before you lay your plywood and nail the dog dookey out of it. 4" on the outside and 6" everywhere else. It will not move
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#20
#20
Not specific enough with my information.....
Tounge and grove 3.4 inch plywood, not planks

My house has planks, squeeked like hell.
In 07 I ripped out all the flooring and hard wood right down to the planks and screwed ( 10,000 screws it feels like lol ) the 3/4 too it.
NO SQUEEKS now, but a lot of work....

I go it in my head that is the best plywood you can buy for flooring but I am not an expert.

I was going top use construction adheasive on every joice and where everything could be glued.

You fellows may not be familiar with Robertson screws.
Up here they are the defacto screw head for everything.
Put a #2 Robertsom bit in you electric drill and they don't cam out or strip.
I had it in my head to do the floor in 2 inch deck screws.....
Actualy I think I might screw everything.

Itys more expensive but I can drive in screws a lot faster than nail.
Not as a fast as an air nailer, but pretty darn fast.....
 
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