Smog pump supercharger
- Thread starter Thepaetsguy
- Start date
Two years ago seems like last week? I might be picking up another model 10 this week just like the last one.
I picked up some polishing bits and some jewelers polish to polish the inside of the smog pump i’ll really get all the internals and internal parts clean and spinning real free.
I also am doing a slamjob style silver paint on this random 5hp I have laying about so when I’m working with the whole deal it‘s not a greasy mess.. (I’m trying to get away from all the dirt and grease)
If I don’t get the model 10 the smog pump will go on this 5hp. I’m making a boost storage box. Crude but I’ll allow it.
I picked up some polishing bits and some jewelers polish to polish the inside of the smog pump i’ll really get all the internals and internal parts clean and spinning real free.
I also am doing a slamjob style silver paint on this random 5hp I have laying about so when I’m working with the whole deal it‘s not a greasy mess.. (I’m trying to get away from all the dirt and grease)
If I don’t get the model 10 the smog pump will go on this 5hp. I’m making a boost storage box. Crude but I’ll allow it.
I have an ARC 3hp flywheel with the bracket. I need a 3hp coil. I LOST ONE keeper for the duel valve springs. I need a bearing for the PTO cover.
I think I will order the coil so I can atleast use the good flywheel. And I’m sure I can do a bit of research and find a cheap set of valve keepers in whatever MM valve stem a Briggs 5hp uses.
The bearing was a very very very very tight press fit onto the crankshaft and slipped into the sidecover easy. I’m having trouble finding a replacement bearing. Pressing it onto the crank isn‘t an issue it’s finding the actual bearing size is what i‘m not sure about.
I’m now thinking spending the cash to use these parts would be the better option over the stock stuff.
I think I will order the coil so I can atleast use the good flywheel. And I’m sure I can do a bit of research and find a cheap set of valve keepers in whatever MM valve stem a Briggs 5hp uses.
The bearing was a very very very very tight press fit onto the crankshaft and slipped into the sidecover easy. I’m having trouble finding a replacement bearing. Pressing it onto the crank isn‘t an issue it’s finding the actual bearing size is what i‘m not sure about.
I’m now thinking spending the cash to use these parts would be the better option over the stock stuff.
There should be 3 or 4 numbers and one or two letters on your original bearing. These numbers identify size and rating of the bearing. If these are not available you can measure OD/ID and cross section thickness and present these to a competent bearing distributer for replacement. Ask for high speed rating. The stock Briggs bearing has metal shield on outboard side of bearing. Replacement bearing sometimes has two metal shields. Remove one and proceed.
The coil on there now is junk but was a good test. I tossed it into the drill press and lengthened the slots. So this is a slotted 5hp stock coil being used on a 3hp flywheel drop bracket. We will find out if it works or not.
Next I have been building an accumulator. In the third picture the accumulator is being held to the inlet tube that goes to the intake port. This is wrong I just had a brain malfunction while taking the picture.
The tank will go directly to the outlet port of the pump and a 90 bend out of the back of the tank will go to the inlet tube.
Next I have been building an accumulator. In the third picture the accumulator is being held to the inlet tube that goes to the intake port. This is wrong I just had a brain malfunction while taking the picture.
The tank will go directly to the outlet port of the pump and a 90 bend out of the back of the tank will go to the inlet tube.
Is it an over simplification to think all boosted single cylinders would run lean due to a velocity problem?
I just don’t understand how to make a 5hp Briggs run 5-15psi on a boost gauge and the second you crack the throttle the velocity going into the carburetor inlet pulls all the fuel it could use and more.
The air velocity going into the carburetor and into the pump is not the same as the air velocity coming out of the pump?
A member on here posted a very very cool series he was following of the robot cantina and his workings with a 212cc port fuel injection. I feel like he unknowingly solved the issue and he wasn’t even trying to.
If the fuel doesn‘t even rely on velocity in the first place then it’s just air crammed in from the pump based on how the engine likes to run off the injector.
I just don’t understand how to make a 5hp Briggs run 5-15psi on a boost gauge and the second you crack the throttle the velocity going into the carburetor inlet pulls all the fuel it could use and more.
The air velocity going into the carburetor and into the pump is not the same as the air velocity coming out of the pump?
A member on here posted a very very cool series he was following of the robot cantina and his workings with a 212cc port fuel injection. I feel like he unknowingly solved the issue and he wasn’t even trying to.
If the fuel doesn‘t even rely on velocity in the first place then it’s just air crammed in from the pump based on how the engine likes to run off the injector.
I’m making a box to pressurize it has a baffle that’s just a piece of pipe that was bent into a curve and cut.
Instead of fuel going in and slamming the back of the box it has a curve to ride against throwing it towards the inlet tube. Hope this is sufficient.
If I can grab the 5hp in the second picture local it will absolutely gone through and lipsticked port ramped a good candidate for the pump. I have some ideas along with polishing the pump internals to make a lot more pressure.
Instead of fuel going in and slamming the back of the box it has a curve to ride against throwing it towards the inlet tube. Hope this is sufficient.
If I can grab the 5hp in the second picture local it will absolutely gone through and lipsticked port ramped a good candidate for the pump. I have some ideas along with polishing the pump internals to make a lot more pressure.