snow minibike

[delray]

Leftythenub,the disc brake is going to get box off with the factory heating box cover, so the snow does not get on it.:thumbsup:
little bit of snow on it and it will stop like a train........
i think for the most part it will stop on it's own with the snow track. i still like to have a back up,so i know it will stop.:thumbsup:

 

[Fat Tony157]

fab a disc brake behind the rear torque converter.
i had two #25 chain sprockets laying around. one small and one larger sprocket. took the larger unit and turn down the teeth and turn it into a disc.:thumbsup:

I think you should consider getting a different caliper. I bought the same caliper for my go kart and it didn't stop it at all. It barely even slowed it down, and this kart is not big at all. I ended up buying a Wilwood mechanical brake and now it stops perfectly. Heres a link to the caliper i bought. Its worth the extra money.

WILWOOD MECHANICAL SPOT BRAKE CALIPER,PARKING BRAKE,ATV - eBay (item 290490772077 end time Dec-20-10 15:34:44 PST)

 

[delray]

ok tony157,i will keep the brake mounting simple,just in cast i have to switch it over to something better. wonder if it something to do with the brake material they ues?:shrug: i have it on another bike and it stops on a dime.
i do like that wilwood brake.

 

[delray]

couple more pictures added to my project,but far from being done......:doah:
fab up small bracket behind the engine mount for holding the brake unit and to keep the snow out from the bottom.

trim up up the jackshaft plate so the torque converter can clear. also the reason i went with this style torque converter/cover, because this style cover completely covers the mounting plate and belt. going to make a new fiberglass cover just like the original cover,but without the small holes. keeping all the snow out of the torque converter.

rear track is all setup now and also built a control arm that is mounted to the front part of the track unit side plate to keep the track unit straight when riding. control arm is mounted on the right side front. don't have a picture of that yet...:doah:

moch up picture of it. i no longer have the front ski on it. i will have to fab up a wider and flat style ski.

also going to have to fab up some skid plates on the side of the track unit and maybe in front of it to help balance the bike better when riding it. so you can see there is a ton of things i have to do still if i want this thing to ride real good and to handle real nice in the snow at higher speeds. just not going to happen this year...:doah:......:no:

 

[adamd]

Selling the other track by chance?

 

[Mr Graphic]

Looking pretty good!

 

[delray]

sorry adamd,sold all my extra tracks.

 

[67tempest]

Glad to see you didn't give up on this, looking good.

 

[rmm727]

I think you should consider getting a different caliper. I bought the same caliper for my go kart and it didn't stop it at all. It barely even slowed it down, and this kart is not big at all. I ended up buying a Wilwood mechanical brake and now it stops perfectly. Heres a link to the caliper i bought. Its worth the extra money.

WILWOOD MECHANICAL SPOT BRAKE CALIPER,PARKING BRAKE,ATV - eBay (item 290490772077 end time Dec-20-10 15:34:44 PST)

There's a $20 version of that brake that pops up every now and then on eBay. I have one on my BSR and it stops well.

 

[kyle moody]

I love your bike Delray. Cant wait to see it done,everything flows nice.

 

[charliechaindrve]

how do you think it would perform with a regular centrifugal clutch on the motor instead of a TAV unit?

 

[delray]

good question, not sure if i have the correct answer. with running this small block 5hp tecumseh with this lead sled project. i think a centrifugal clutch might be harder to move it from a dead stop.

 

[DR CPT G$]

Great blog/project! I love snow-peds! What kind of plastic are these type of drive sprockets? ABS?? I have a set just like it that I'm trying to reverse engineer. Also, is the bushing just pressed in?? If so, I can't imagine it can handle a lot of torque, right? Trying to think of a robust way to mount a metal sprocket to this plastic (i.e. ABS??) drive sprocket without weakening the plastic drive sprocket too much. Thoughts?

 

[Charles S]

Great blog/project! I love snow-peds! What kind of plastic are these type of drive sprockets? ABS?? I have a set just like it that I'm trying to reverse engineer. Also, is the bushing just pressed in?? If so, I can't imagine it can handle a lot of torque, right? Trying to think of a robust way to mount a metal sprocket to this plastic (i.e. ABS??) drive sprocket without weakening the plastic drive sprocket too much. Thoughts? View attachment 274601

I don't know, and MTD doesn't specify, but I would guess they're nylon, possibly Zytel. Zytel is fiberglass reinforced nylon, generally speaking, though there are variations, I think there's carbon fiber reinforced nylon and probably some others. Firearms manufactures produce handgun frames, rifle lowers, stocks, etc from Zytel. The steel insert is probably placed in the mold then the molten plastic is injected into the mold. I doubt that the outside of the insert is smooth, I'd think it would have splines or other physical features to lock it into the plastic. I've never seen one of these wheels in person so I'm just guessing here. Perhaps it would be better to mount the sprocket to the axle rather than to the wheel...

https://www.mtdparts.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/track-drive-wheel/731-1538A.html

https://www.dupont.co.uk/products/zytel.html

 

[delray]

Great blog/project! I love snow-peds! What kind of plastic are these type of drive sprockets? ABS?? I have a set just like it that I'm trying to reverse engineer. Also, is the bushing just pressed in?? If so, I can't imagine it can handle a lot of torque, right? Trying to think of a robust way to mount a metal sprocket to this plastic (i.e. ABS??) drive sprocket without weakening the plastic drive sprocket too much. Thoughts? View attachment 274601

yes that drive track needs to be modified with a good bushing with a grease insert or a bearing. i did test the bike out and it work and all. still needs a ton of mods if a guy really wants it to work real good. first it needs a double ski set up in the front. the small block needs to go and a big block H motor with alot of torque. this is one of them applications it needs torque not horse power. torque converter cover needs to be completely sealed off from the snow. air cleaner too and it wouldn't hurt to make a heat riser tube. for you young guys that don't know what that is? it would be a tube off the exhaust heat only going to a sealed air cleaner with maybe some very small holes for fresh air also to come in as long as the snow doesn't get into it.. heat will keep the carb from frosting up or maybe just a heat box setup from a snow blower engine.
maybe if i gear it low enough i might be able to run a clutch setup. i might be little hard on it. lot of slowing down and back on it again. good way to heat up the clutch even in the cold air around it. tons of things a guy could do....

 

[DR CPT G$]

I don't know, and MTD doesn't specify, but I would guess they're nylon, possibly Zytel. Zytel is fiberglass reinforced nylon, generally speaking, though there are variations, I think there's carbon fiber reinforced nylon and probably some others. Firearms manufactures produce handgun frames, rifle lowers, stocks, etc from Zytel. The steel insert is probably placed in the mold then the molten plastic is injected into the mold. I doubt that the outside of the insert is smooth, I'd think it would have splines or other physical features to lock it into the plastic. I've never seen one of these wheels in person so I'm just guessing here. Perhaps it would be better to mount the sprocket to the axle rather than to the wheel...

https://www.mtdparts.com/en_US/miscellaneous-classification/track-drive-wheel/731-1538A.html

https://www.dupont.co.uk/products/zytel.html

Thanks, @Charles S. The shaft connection to the cog (i.e. the pressed-in steel bushing) "torque sheared" into two pieces - one of which is still pressed into the cog. I think you're right, the bushings are molded in. The busted bushing looks like a screw now. No real access to weld back together and I don't want to unseat what's left of the bushing from the cog. Thus the thought of making the cog a sprocket. I don't plan on going crazy or sending a lot of torque through it, but I don't think it would tolerate much anyway. There's this disease I have that is calling me to salvage the cogs that I already have (both have torque sheared bushings). It's almost more about the challenge to resurrect the dead than it is a practical solution at this point. Either way, thanks for the links you sent.