Speedway mini bike resurrection

#1
Has anybody here ever put a predator motor with a Comit TAV on a Speedway frame? If so were you able to bolt the motor and jack shaft in their respective stock locations. What I'm working with is pretty rough but I'd still hate to have to cut up the plate/jack shaft mount.
 
#2
The frame I have is identical to this one on fleabay now. I do not have the stock jack shaft or pulley in the pic. I'll be using a jack shaft kit and Comit TAV I baught at Northern Tool years ago. (Also, a real Honda 6.5 if it makes a differance.) My question arises because it looks like the snout on the driven pulley of my TAV will be too long if I don't move it right a little making considerable mods to the engine plate necessary. I'd appreciate any input. Pics of my actual project tomorrow.
 

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#3
Can't help with tab fit but I have used comet 340 and Salisbury 330 with 6 inch driven but had to grind a small amount of the folded metal over the hub for clearance.
 

2SlickNick

Well-Known Member
#4
I was unable too on my 1971 Speedway Scarab... Because my driven unit rubbed my swing arm. I guess it to bearing mounts are closer to swing arm on 1971 and earlier, I was told.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#5
I did an entire thread on mounting a 6" driven on a Speedway Scarab and Shrike (which originally used 5" driven.) You can search for it.
 
#8
So here's where I am on this.
In order to use the TAV2 near the stock location I would have to move the engine to the right a couple of inches giving it a hanging off the frame look. I'll also have to widen the slot at least 3/4". This makes the center line of the engine and the

My second option is is to mount the engine in the stock location and just run a cyntrifical clutch down yo the Jack shaft.

Option 3 and the one I'm leaning toward is to move the engine about 3" left. It will still be more centered than the move to the right would be and it would require no real modification to the plate. Doing it this way, the whole TAV2 assy. would sit outside the frame and the left foot peg bracket needs removed. I was considering moving them forward anyway.
 

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cfh

Well-Known Member
#9
I don't think you're approaching this correctly.
You need to use a 6" driven and driver that are Symmetric. You can't use an asymmetrical TAV on this speedway. That is you need a TAV20 not a TAV30. i've done this several times. never had to move the motor. a little cutting to open up the driven. I bought the driver and driven separately on ebay. got it all lined up and installed. and then measured to get the correct size symmetrical belt. It worked really well with minimal modifications. and kept the original design and look.

the way you're doing it will make the bike look weird. it may work, but it doesn't seem like a good idea to me. you will have a ton of motor/clutch sticking out on the left side.
 
#10
I have three running the 330/340 series with minor mods to get it to fit. The driven units are on ebay all the time for around 30 bucks. They use a symmetrical belt and if you could not find a 330/340 driver you could buy a cheap 20 series driver which also use a symmetrical belt.
 

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#11
Do what ole4 said. Get an nos Salisbury and use a 20 series comet. Late 73 speedways actually used the Salisbury 330. Not sure if your is 72 or 73 but all you have to do is bent a little section if it’s a 72. Here’s a photo of a stock setup on a late 73. The bent section is stock for mid 73 up.
 

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cfh

Well-Known Member
#12
Here's a shrike with a comet/china TAV20 clone. this works really well with just some small modifications to the driven opening.

 
#13
Here's a shrike with a comet/china TAV20 clone. this works really well with just some small modifications to the driven opening.

He has a 72-73 bike. They are different and had 6” converters (Fairbanks and salsbury) from the factory.
 
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