starting the build! :)

predator bike

predator bike

New Member
#1
#1
ok hf 6.5 275 lift 230 duration cam 26lb springs autolite race plug gx160 flywheel lapped on and bolted down correctly gx160 connecting rod gx160 14cc head port and polish exhaust ported intake 22mm mikuni i think of i may send my japan made gx200 carb to my engine buider and have him bore it and rework it if he cant get me a mikuni set up or a gx390 carb




just wanted to say sorry for the way i acted just tired fro my job to pay for all of this

if you guys counld give my any advice about the lapping of the flywheel or anything else im doing it would be appreiciated
 
D

Davidgx200

New Member
#7
#7
with 26lb springs I would go with a billet rod and flywheel. Are you running with the governor or removing it? I'm curious why the gx160 rod. Is it longer? If it's shorter that will lower compression some, surely thats the reason for the 14cc heads, right? I'm just asking cause I've never built a gx160 so I'm not fimilar with the rod. When I removed my governor at the biginning I added 18lb springs, k&n filter and adapter, header, billet flywheel and #90 jet with gx140 emulsion tube went for a ride the stock rod shattered in bout 5 minutes. ARC Racing has a good cheap gx200 to gx390 adapter, and NR Racing has a race prepped gx390 carb for cheap. Just be careful and keep it safe. Good Luck
 
predator bike

predator bike

New Member
#8
#8
gx160 flywheel because it can last till 7000 if put on correctly and the rod is same length but stronger because its a honda im only twisting 4700 for a brief second i have a micron 4 to watch and record rpm and temp
 
R

r_chez_08

New Member
#13
#13
Yeah but you said 4700rpm max?
Heavier valve springs prevent valve float. However on a stocker with stock cam this occurs around 5500rpm.
I would say 18lb springs are all that is required. 26lb springs take away power, and put extra strain on all your valve components.
 
graygoose420

graygoose420

New Member
#15
#15
predator bike said:
thats just the springs that cam with the package
Click to expand...
Use the 26lbs. You will pass 5k easy. So easy that you'll love it and keep going. Lol. Build it ass bullet proof as you can. All my motors spin high 9k and that's with 55lbs springs . Yes its harder on parts but it is required in my build. Your build should be fine with the 26s.
 
R

r_chez_08

New Member
#18
#18
graygoose420 said:
Use the 26lbs. You will pass 5k easy. So easy that you'll love it and keep going. Lol. Build it ass bullet proof as you can. All my motors spin high 9k and that's with 55lbs springs . Yes its harder on parts but it is required in my build. Your build should be fine with the 26s.
Click to expand...
Are you nuts-
You will pass 5k easy. So easy that you'll love it and keep going.
Click to expand...
He is using the stock rod and flywheel. OldMiniBikes reccomends billet rod and flywheel as soon as the governor is removed. This is not my opinion but I certantly would install a billet rod and flywheel with 26lb springs in the motor.
I personally would use some lighter springs and use them as a form of limiter so that you do not kill the motor, or worse, serverely damage yourself. C'mon predatorbike, you're 14 (IIRC). It ain't worth it, they may be honda parts but they still are cast. If you are going to use the stock parts, stay lower in RPM.
OR upgrade, protect yourself and motor, and open up a much larger RPM range.

JMO.
 
R

r_chez_08

New Member
#20
#20
I would just use the 10.8's and see whether they are OK. I understand that high lift cams require a stiffer spring to get the valves back down, but considering trick springs and a cl-1 can twist pretty much 6k, you should be fine with trick springs and your cam.
 
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