starting the build! :)
- Thread starter predator bike
- Start date
- Tags build! starting
At the tender age of....
What is he 15?
You can't tell jack shit.
The boys growing and won't be fully formed for another decade.
At that point it could be another 5 years before he is truely skilled and in his prime.
Let me ask you Biker scum.
How long does it take to train up a tool and die maker?
And how many more years before he's realy good at it.
Long time eh?
What is he 15?
You can't tell jack shit.
The boys growing and won't be fully formed for another decade.
At that point it could be another 5 years before he is truely skilled and in his prime.
Let me ask you Biker scum.
How long does it take to train up a tool and die maker?
And how many more years before he's realy good at it.
Long time eh?
To train, about 6 years. To be good, sometimes never. And I can tell who is who going in. I never said he would never amount to anything. I said I can tell who's worth the time. He's here because people give him attention. Nothing more.
Do I know "jack shit"? Maybe, maybe not.
I know it's 6 days into starting the build, without starting the build.
Glad to see he found his hero.
Do I know "jack shit"? Maybe, maybe not.
I know it's 6 days into starting the build, without starting the build.
Glad to see he found his hero.
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Re read that.
I didn't say you don't know jack shit.
I said he's 15 years old and to expand my thought a little with refernce to him.
You can't tell "jack shit" what he will amount too at 15.......
Nothing more infered
Clear the air a little?
Hmm....
Does sound like I said you don't know jack shit though I guess.
Well I don't know Jack shit about you.
I thought you were a general machinist and not a tool and die maker.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2tMY8n2EhU
I didn't say you don't know jack shit.
I said he's 15 years old and to expand my thought a little with refernce to him.
You can't tell "jack shit" what he will amount too at 15.......
Nothing more infered
Clear the air a little?
Hmm....
Does sound like I said you don't know jack shit though I guess.
Well I don't know Jack shit about you.
I thought you were a general machinist and not a tool and die maker.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2tMY8n2EhU
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imp: im rootin for the underdog!!! Lol seriously .. a few people on here can be a little bit rough on the newcommers...i can reremembe15.. about 18 years ago.... and on my own could not afford :censure: and had to bust my ass to get something that at the time i didnt know my parents didnt have the money for... there is the possibility that this may happen... but timing he may not habe controll of.. but to you(predator bike). .. if you have a question. Ask it.. but dont air your business out.. and people wont fell they are being dragged along. Ask a question, write down the answer... and continue on your own path. Because although you may get the answer you need in one post. You might get ridiculed in another. Theses people are behind you with great anticipation to what you may do.. but if your not completely ready, just ask fet the answer... and show and prove when its time. You will never be in the position to argue... because they all have been there and dont that on most of the things you may ask..and this is where you should ask and learn. Or... do what you want.. and let us know how it turns out.. you might have something with the builder... but you should have done yourself.. the info is here.. and tools are at the store. Just my 2¢
I think your asking me if the combination of the GX160 head and pistion will cause increased fuel consumption?
Answere is no.
Infact the combination will liekly reduce fuel consumption because compression increases the efficiency of engines.
The piston however may not fit.
There is a long and short skirt version of he GX160 piston.
You will need to careful trim the skirt to make it fit.
Answere is no.
Infact the combination will liekly reduce fuel consumption because compression increases the efficiency of engines.
The piston however may not fit.
There is a long and short skirt version of he GX160 piston.
You will need to careful trim the skirt to make it fit.
Well.....
Its hard to predict these things.
A lot depends what else you do.
If your jetting is good ( richened up from stock ).
Timing is correct and the engine is breathing well 89 is probably ok.
But you need to watch and listen carefuly.
AS is with justthe compression artio increase most of the improvement will be increased torque and the power will be developed a little lower.
But also the increase in compression will mean the top end is enhanced too.
The engine will carry forward a little longer before the power starts to drop off.
Why this happens is because at lower speeds the fuel charge is packed tighter and combustion efficiency is improved.
Higher up the need for more timing is decreased somewhat and smaller volume of the combustion chamber means the piston can pull a little harder and draw ina fresh charge more effectively as well as exhaust spent gasses without actualy doing anything to improve the VE of the engine.
How and where the changes in compression will truely start to effect the octane requirements has more to do with the VE and the cylinder presure before ignition ( and shortly there after as cylinder presure rises before combustion is complete ).
Preignitions and detonation are factors related more to the heat of compression and not actualy the compression itself.
Also the smaller the combustion chamber the more quickly the flame front can cross the chamber. This enhances everything.
Perosnaly I like the 14cc heads more than milling the 18 or 22 because I feel I am better served with a more compact chamber of simmilar volume than a more shallow and wider chamber.
The trade off is I have a lower volume efficency because of shrouded valves.
If you look at heads by MDB you will notice they have both very shallow and small diameter chambers. He makes his heads as tight as his valves will allow for without hitting the piston and then welds mills and shapes them for maximum effect to produce both peak flow and low volume.
There is a lot of science here.
Thats is why he can build an engine than needs higher octane at a lower static compression than others ( myself included ).
Now back to you.
89 octane might be ok.
I ran a dished piston 14cc head engine with no issues related to detonation or ping because it could not flow enough to realy generate the kinds of cylinder presure to make trouble.
Air fuel ratio also plays a part.
A rich mixture for maximum power and low speed jet set for best throttle response will reduce the need for high octane compared to an engine that is lean.
This is why aviation fuels used to have two rating for octane.
One was higher for rich mixtures when power was maximum.
And the other was for lower power setting when the pilot would lean up his carbs for crusie and maximum economy.
Does that help?
Its hard to predict these things.
A lot depends what else you do.
If your jetting is good ( richened up from stock ).
Timing is correct and the engine is breathing well 89 is probably ok.
But you need to watch and listen carefuly.
AS is with justthe compression artio increase most of the improvement will be increased torque and the power will be developed a little lower.
But also the increase in compression will mean the top end is enhanced too.
The engine will carry forward a little longer before the power starts to drop off.
Why this happens is because at lower speeds the fuel charge is packed tighter and combustion efficiency is improved.
Higher up the need for more timing is decreased somewhat and smaller volume of the combustion chamber means the piston can pull a little harder and draw ina fresh charge more effectively as well as exhaust spent gasses without actualy doing anything to improve the VE of the engine.
How and where the changes in compression will truely start to effect the octane requirements has more to do with the VE and the cylinder presure before ignition ( and shortly there after as cylinder presure rises before combustion is complete ).
Preignitions and detonation are factors related more to the heat of compression and not actualy the compression itself.
Also the smaller the combustion chamber the more quickly the flame front can cross the chamber. This enhances everything.
Perosnaly I like the 14cc heads more than milling the 18 or 22 because I feel I am better served with a more compact chamber of simmilar volume than a more shallow and wider chamber.
The trade off is I have a lower volume efficency because of shrouded valves.
If you look at heads by MDB you will notice they have both very shallow and small diameter chambers. He makes his heads as tight as his valves will allow for without hitting the piston and then welds mills and shapes them for maximum effect to produce both peak flow and low volume.
There is a lot of science here.
Thats is why he can build an engine than needs higher octane at a lower static compression than others ( myself included ).
Now back to you.
89 octane might be ok.
I ran a dished piston 14cc head engine with no issues related to detonation or ping because it could not flow enough to realy generate the kinds of cylinder presure to make trouble.
Air fuel ratio also plays a part.
A rich mixture for maximum power and low speed jet set for best throttle response will reduce the need for high octane compared to an engine that is lean.
This is why aviation fuels used to have two rating for octane.
One was higher for rich mixtures when power was maximum.
And the other was for lower power setting when the pilot would lean up his carbs for crusie and maximum economy.
Does that help?
Man I've missed/forgot all the fun that can be had on this forum.
I wouldn't even mess with that cam until you have all billet parts. You would be taking a large chance and if something let's go it could possibly destroy the block, cam and head. Then you would be left with a pile of useless shit. Also that cam would run like Poo if it never got into it's powerband(IMHO) because you are trying to limit it.
I wouldn't even mess with that cam until you have all billet parts. You would be taking a large chance and if something let's go it could possibly destroy the block, cam and head. Then you would be left with a pile of useless shit. Also that cam would run like Poo if it never got into it's powerband(IMHO) because you are trying to limit it.
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Well using valve float as a rev limiter is kind of like using your teeth as a bottle opener.
Sure it can pop the top off bottles of all nationalities but sooner or later something's got to give.....
Watch this video and see what happens to the valve and the related parts.
When things start to float what you actualy getting is not as the name implies something light in fluffy but it is infact a violent stressful thing.
Valve Float - YouTube
The valve head is bounching off the seat....
The valve stem is shaking around....
The push rods are wobling around and flexing as the lash goes o hell and the springs themselves are moving in an un natural way.
In short float is nice word for your vlave train is beating the shit out of itself.
And sooner or later something is going to break.
AT this point I should not have to tell you to replace the stock valves with something better.
I would buy the ARC retainer and keepers and use the SI valves with lash caps.
At the very least I would buy some Honda or better rockers and some lighter and stronger crome moly push rods.
Some things you you don;t mind at all if they have some jiggle to them.
Your valve train however is not one of them.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=3p_sesimOZY&feature=endscreen
Sure it can pop the top off bottles of all nationalities but sooner or later something's got to give.....
Watch this video and see what happens to the valve and the related parts.
When things start to float what you actualy getting is not as the name implies something light in fluffy but it is infact a violent stressful thing.
Valve Float - YouTube
The valve head is bounching off the seat....
The valve stem is shaking around....
The push rods are wobling around and flexing as the lash goes o hell and the springs themselves are moving in an un natural way.
In short float is nice word for your vlave train is beating the shit out of itself.
And sooner or later something is going to break.
AT this point I should not have to tell you to replace the stock valves with something better.
I would buy the ARC retainer and keepers and use the SI valves with lash caps.
At the very least I would buy some Honda or better rockers and some lighter and stronger crome moly push rods.
Some things you you don;t mind at all if they have some jiggle to them.
Your valve train however is not one of them.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=3p_sesimOZY&feature=endscreen
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