One of the Three current rebuilds here in the shop for people is this Neat little February 1974 H30 Side tank engine off an Alsport Trike. Its pretty unique to see because its got the late version throttle control, Aluminum tag still, and the steel side saddle tank on it, which is quite odd for that time period so Its a neat little Factory built Gem!
On the steel tanks, just about all of them for that matter, the mounting lugs are nothing more than a closed end rivet-nut on the submerged, or side and bottoms. Now if some sort of sealer was used, I don't know. In my experience, just about any tank that I have had to remove the lower bracket, or in this case remove from the shrouding, Has developed a tank seep/leak. Disturbing that nut can cause a problem.
On this style engine, you don't have a choice if you want to to a full on rebuild but to remove this tank. So anytime I do one like this It gets a tank sealer in no matter how clean it is inside. The other thing with engine like these is if you are replicating this type of version (everyone always seems to be looking for this tank for a little rupp kart or bike) Is that you make sure you use a bolt that is not too long that you will be bottoming out. There is also a reinforcement that goes on the inside of this type of shroud in original setup.
Currently the sealer is setting up in this tank and then I can start the finish work on it and the shrouding (original "Sems" bolts and backing plate visible in Pic) ,
Its gettin' there........
Sealing the tank while its srtipped bare for me is wise cause I am sloppy
If you do a painted tank you want to take better precautions to not get the sealer on the paint.
As far as sealers go, I wont get into what to use, Its your choice. I will say that I have actually used POR15, Caswells, and Red kote on various tanks over the last 10 years, and had great results with ALL of them. The secret is to actually read and follow the directions they supply!
On the steel tanks, just about all of them for that matter, the mounting lugs are nothing more than a closed end rivet-nut on the submerged, or side and bottoms. Now if some sort of sealer was used, I don't know. In my experience, just about any tank that I have had to remove the lower bracket, or in this case remove from the shrouding, Has developed a tank seep/leak. Disturbing that nut can cause a problem.
On this style engine, you don't have a choice if you want to to a full on rebuild but to remove this tank. So anytime I do one like this It gets a tank sealer in no matter how clean it is inside. The other thing with engine like these is if you are replicating this type of version (everyone always seems to be looking for this tank for a little rupp kart or bike) Is that you make sure you use a bolt that is not too long that you will be bottoming out. There is also a reinforcement that goes on the inside of this type of shroud in original setup.
Currently the sealer is setting up in this tank and then I can start the finish work on it and the shrouding (original "Sems" bolts and backing plate visible in Pic) ,
Its gettin' there........
Sealing the tank while its srtipped bare for me is wise cause I am sloppy
If you do a painted tank you want to take better precautions to not get the sealer on the paint.As far as sealers go, I wont get into what to use, Its your choice. I will say that I have actually used POR15, Caswells, and Red kote on various tanks over the last 10 years, and had great results with ALL of them. The secret is to actually read and follow the directions they supply!
