Steering Bearing Friction Welded

#1
Hi all, brand new here but have had mini bikes all my life. Never tinkered with one but got a go kart and mini bike cheap and decided to do some mods.

The mini bike frame is the ct200ex with a hemi predator 212. Aside from a few of the side cover bolts stripping out, the only problem I’m having is the steering headset, specifically the bearings. there was a huge amount of play in the steering and I decided to take it apart and see what was happening. Top bearing was still in tact, but unfortunately at some point, the bottom bearing broke and only the center and balls were lost. D454E60A-631F-4071-8095-6C3B74A3B4CC.jpeg This caused the column sleeve to rub profusely against the steering bolt and form a groove in it. B82F837C-3A39-47CB-AB95-F60B2CA6B9FA.jpeg A4875011-2AAD-4EBB-AAA2-26711205720A.jpeg Apparently during this same grinding, the outer ring of the lower bearing seems to have friction welded in place. I’m at a total loss as to how to move forward. Would it be alright to get my dremel out with a stone grinding wheel?
 

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#3
I’ve been baffled by Coleman’s part site, had to find the space tube on Amazon. Problem isn’t getting new parts it’s installing them. Like my post mentioned the bottom bearing seems to be welded in place from friction. Before I go drilling it out I wanted to know if anyone else had this issue before and what they did.
 

2old2care

Active Member
#4
So you're saying that the old outer race from the bottom bearing is stuck in the head tube ? If you have a diamond bit for your dremel, you can probably cut a notch in the race, to relieve the pressure, and it should drive right out then - I doubt it's actually welded that hard.
You'll need a diamond or carbide burr to do it, as the race is very hard steel.
 
#5
So you're saying that the old outer race from the bottom bearing is stuck in the head tube ? If you have a diamond bit for your dremel, you can probably cut a notch in the race, to relieve the pressure, and it should drive right out then - I doubt it's actually welded that hard.
You'll need a diamond or carbide burr to do it, as the race is very hard steel.
Awesome!! I have some carbide bits and wd-40! I appreciate the advice I’d have been there an age with a grinding stone
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#6
Hard to tell from the photos - Is that gold colored tube a spacer between the bearings ?
Coleman's parts pages don't show that - Just the bolt and the 2 bearings. If the bearing seats are still OK, you can just pull the old races, and buy new ones, and a replacement bolt - All pretty cheap parts : https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/minibikeparts/CT200UEX/handlebars

But maybe I'm missing something ........ Probably
The only thing you are missing is their shipping cost and how long it will take for the parts to arrive. Back in early 2017 I ordered some hardware and those bearings. I recall the shipping cost as being pretty high and it took more than 6 weeks for the parts to arrive.

What he has there is the worst thing about the Coleman 200's. My 1970 Schwinn 20" bicycle had a heavier duty setup than this. They should have used a larger tube, bearings and bolt.
 
#7
The only thing you are missing is their shipping cost and how long it will take for the parts to arrive. Back in early 2017 I ordered some hardware and those bearings. I recall the shipping cost as being pretty high and it took more than 6 weeks for the parts to arrive.

What he has there is the worst thing about the Coleman 200's. My 1970 Schwinn 20" bicycle had a heavier duty setup than this. They should have used a larger tube, bearings and bolt.
I was hoping to get the forks replaced. $45 and close $85 after shipping… Coleman is the worst for premiums. I wish it was as t justifified, but I guarantee they make plenty to cover it
 
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