Success w/ NR Racing Exhaust on MB200-2

Just wanted to post up a happy coincidence. I had purchased a Stage 3 setup from NR Racing for the CT200u. I ordered the "mini bike downdraft style" header hoping it would work on the Coleman (no luck). But it fit like it was made for the MB200-2. A lot more clearance at your leg than the stock exhaust (you would have to work really hard to hit your leg on it). At the other end, with the RLV muffler attached, I have just under an inch of clearance to the swing arm. But even after putting 330 lbs on the rear end it squated only about 1/2" - so I think I am ok. Without the muffler there is tons of clearance everywhere. Sound wise, it's a raspy beast without the muffler, but the muffler really quiets it down. I hope to figure out an easy way to give it support to the frame somewhere near the muffler.

Header, RLV NRR5438, GX200, GX160, 6.5 Chinese OHV, & 212 Predator, Mini - Bike Down Draft Style

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And for those that haven't seen just how much the stock exhaust chokes the engine: Image00010.jpg
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Awsum!! I'm so jelly..:biggrin: ..... they state top speed is fairly low.I'm curios about tc ...gearing? driven? maybe a pic of it..thanks
I think the advertised top speed is left over from the older model (non-TC). Bone stock (before exhaust) and no adjustment to the governor and I hit 36 mph. The speed gradually increases and I had to turn around after two short blocks with it still climbing. Uphill really slowed it down (26). It is a heavy mini and I am not exactly light (200lbs). I noticed today that the throttle governor was screwed in about 1/2 inch, so I am looking forward to taking it for another spin tomorrow.

I will pull off the TC cover for you tomorrow and get pictures and gearing. Do I measure the outside of the pulleys? What measurements would you like?
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Well-Known Member
What is the tooth count on the front and rear sprockets? If you are going for higher top speed you will need to change to 7/1 gearing. If you are running 5/1 or so you will run out of engine around the low to mid 40 mph range. Even after your stage 3 upgrades.

On my Coleman I kept the stock muffler but ground the hell out of that restriction you show in the picture to open it up a bit.

Nice pipe.
Well, I owe Raskin one. Check out the nut holding the rear pulley on. Yikes. Good thing you had me check gearing.


The gearing is 10 on the front and 38 on the rear. The only mark on the TAV that I could find was "G07-1" on the rear pulley, and it uses a "Zijingang VS Belt 669 8MO1 05"

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Active Member
Nice pipe! Does anyone know if this one works as well on the predator/Baja Warrior frame? Looks like it will flow a lot better than the stock muffler system.
There is a lot less frame to deal with on the Warrior, so I would think so. The only issue is the angle of that central, rear frame bar. I will remove the side panel off of mine and get a side shot so we can compare. Comparing online photos and the shots I took earlier (I am at work right now), it looks like you would have more clearance at the muffler end too.

Definitely louder than the original (even with the RLV muffler) but I like it so far.


Active Member
Ordered 1, will let you know if it fits. If not, I have a buddy who's a good welder, so he can fix it if there's a problem.
Ordered 1, will let you know if it fits. If not, I have a buddy who's a good welder, so he can fix it if there's a problem.
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news but from what I can see it wont clear the rear frame upright. Look at the last pic posted that shows the valve cover and how far the pipe crosses over behind the valve cover. There is not a lot of room in that area with the frame tubing to valve cover.

Just what I am seeing in the pics. It could (and I hope it does) fit like a glove.

I hope to figure out an easy way to give it support to the frame somewhere near the muffler.

Bend an L bracket and clamp it to one of the frame tubes with a hose clamp and clamp it to the header with another hose clamp. It might take a little creative bending but you can do it. Easy Peasy...



Active Member
Said I would let everyone know. Doug was right, it doesn't fit & hits the frame. Had a buddy weld it for me & now it's fine, if a bit LOUD. Basically, just cut at the 1st bend, flip the pipe over, then weld it back in place. Bent the brace to attach to the motor & welded it in place. Wrapped with cheap fiberglass. Waiting on a die spring for a baffle.

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