Super Bronc 10 Build, from the bone yard.

KenZ

New Member
#1
I joined here a couple years ago and have lurked on and off waiting until my retirement to get hands on with a build for my 8th grade grandsons that are being very patient. I retired August 31st and got imperative projects done and now that the snow is flying in Montana it's time to start planning in earnest for this resurrection.
The frame and wheels I got from a neighbor that rescued them from the crusher at the steel recycler appear from my investigation are for a V-1012.
There is no jackshaft/brake assembly. At some time in the long past someone removed all of that and had some type of 2 stroke on it I believe, no matter though.
I want to make this a torque convertor bike with the drive chain on the left and a hydraulic disc brake on right rear.
There is an original front drum brake assembly.
I'm going to put up a bunch of pictures of what I have.
So far we blasted the frame, welded up the cut out areas in the motor plate and primed and sealed the frame.
What I'm curious about is how to, (and I'm not sure I'm using the correct terminology), get the "stand off" between the rear wheel inner flange and where the sprocket will go, and on the other side, a standoff similar to the drive side, but for a brake disc.
Anyone done one or have an idea?
Thanks for your time, hope to get this moving along and running by Summer 2020.
Ken
 

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GustoGuy

Well-Known Member
#2
Awesome that you rescued it from the scrapyard. Too many classic bikes are being melted down for scrap iron instead of being restored. Minibikes are a fun hobby and it is fun to have several of them in order to go on group rides. Do you have somewhere to ride the bike? I could not imagine not having miles of low maintenance roads like I do around my lake cabin. Are you going to power it with a 10hp engine? I like Super Bronc's since they are made for adult riders and the big fat balloon tires are great in sand and off road. Post some pictures of your progress on your build.
 
#4
I joined here a couple years ago and have lurked on and off waiting until my retirement to get hands on with a build for my 8th grade grandsons that are being very patient. I retired August 31st and got imperative projects done and now that the snow is flying in Montana it's time to start planning in earnest for this resurrection.
The frame and wheels I got from a neighbor that rescued them from the crusher at the steel recycler appear from my investigation are for a V-1012.
There is no jackshaft/brake assembly. At some time in the long past someone removed all of that and had some type of 2 stroke on it I believe, no matter though.
I want to make this a torque convertor bike with the drive chain on the left and a hydraulic disc brake on right rear.
There is an original front drum brake assembly.
I'm going to put up a bunch of pictures of what I have.
So far we blasted the frame, welded up the cut out areas in the motor plate and primed and sealed the frame.
What I'm curious about is how to, (and I'm not sure I'm using the correct terminology), get the "stand off" between the rear wheel inner flange and where the sprocket will go, and on the other side, a standoff similar to the drive side, but for a brake disc.
Anyone done one or have an idea?
Thanks for your time, hope to get this moving along and running by Summer 2020.
Ken
You’ve got a very good start, those nice fenders and gas tank are worth about a bizillion dollars right there. Is that finned thing part of an electronic ignition system? Maybe you could teach your grandsons to weld repairing that engine plate, hands on gives them some sweat equity in the project. I can show you how to make some really nice front fork boots. I’ll try to attach a picture. Good luck with your project, keep us informed.
 

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#6
You’ve got a very good start, those nice fenders and gas tank are worth about a bizillion dollars right there. Is that finned thing part of an electronic ignition system? Maybe you could teach your grandsons to weld repairing that engine plate, hands on gives them some sweat equity in the project. I can show you how to make some really nice front fork boots. I’ll try to attach a picture. Good luck with your project, keep us informed.
To try to answer your “standoff” question, what locates the rear wheel centered in the frame and locates the sprocket is a rear hub, basically a piece of pipe about 2” in diameter with a bearing pressed into each end and a long axle that locates to the slots in the frame and allows for tightening the chain. Welded to this pipe are two flanges with studs pressed in, one to locate the sprocket and one to bolt to the wheel. I don’t see this hub amongst your parts, you’ll have to locate one. I checked my VT-1080 (pictured) to be sure I knew what I was talking about. Sometimes the old mind plays tricks.
 
#7
To try to answer your “standoff” question, what locates the rear wheel centered in the frame and locates the sprocket is a rear hub, basically a piece of pipe about 2” in diameter with a bearing pressed into each end and a long axle that locates to the slots in the frame and allows for tightening the chain. Welded to this pipe are two flanges with studs pressed in, one to locate the sprocket and one to bolt to the wheel. I don’t see this hub amongst your parts, you’ll have to locate one. I checked my VT-1080 (pictured) to be sure I knew what I was talking about. Sometimes the old mind plays tricks.
Mine only has the sprocket on the rear wheel, the brake is a small disk on the jack shaft that shifts the power from the left (crankshaft) side to the right (sprocket) side.
 

KenZ

New Member
#8
Thanks!!!
I have gleaned pictures from the web of how it came from the factory, with the little disc brake on the jackshaft. That's not an ideal setup, if the chain ever lets go, there's no rear wheel braking.
I've found a hydraulic disc brake setup that will give positive braking no matter what. I can run it on the handle bar on the right or make a setup for a right side foot operated lever like on a real motorcycle. I'll just have to weld a tab to hold the caliper to the frame on the right rear.
I found some stand offs/ flanges in the past few minutes on the web. Now to figure out how much stand off I need...
Also including a picture of the original style jackshaft and brake. Not doing that......I want this to be really safe and able to stop itself well on mountain trails.
 

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delray

Well-Known Member
#9
ideally you want to make sure your rims a both 8inch wide and not the 7inch wide rims . on a true super bronc rim both sides will for the most part have the same look and the bolt pattern will be located in the center and not off set like a 7inch for example.
here is what a factory rear hub /axle setup looks like.





they did make a few disc brake setups in there very late years when ron k. owned it.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#10
You’ve got a very good start, those nice fenders and gas tank are worth about a bizillion dollars right there. Is that finned thing part of an electronic ignition system? Maybe you could teach your grandsons to weld repairing that engine plate, hands on gives them some sweat equity in the project. I can show you how to make some really nice front fork boots. I’ll try to attach a picture. Good luck with your project, keep us informed.
what did the boots come off of originally.
 

brown boonie

JUST REMEMBER-EXPECT IT WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT!
#11
@chatten63 may be able to help with some parts also. he acquired the remains of the nos bronc items from Ron Kimball. he also does some great repop items like fenders, axles, etc.
 

KenZ

New Member
#12
Thanks for all of the help so far guys! Greatly appreciated.
Here's how the frame looks now after filling in the chop job.
Needs a little more filler and primer. The front fork is done, it's spray can chrome and black. The frame will be the new Camaro electric metallic green. Grandsons choice.
My wheels are an eclectic assortment that the neighbor gleaned from the bone yard.
The 8" wheel is correct and bolted up to the front fork when I got it all.; the 2 9" are too large to work with a sprocket on one side and a disc on the other.
I guess I'll be finding another 8" wheel.
With the one good 8" wheel and tire I can start getting measurements for the flange sizes I need for right side disc, left side sprocket
The wheels are defrosting in the garage with the Mr Heater ceiling furnace running.
Thanks again!
Keep the suggestions coming!
 

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brown boonie

JUST REMEMBER-EXPECT IT WHEN YOU LEAST EXPECT IT!
#13
THE WHEELS SHOULD BE A 4X4 BOLT PATTERN. THE BASIC GOLF CART WHEEL HAS THE SAME BOLT PATTERN. MAY BE ABLE TO USE ONE OF THEM, NOT SURE OF THE OFF SET THOUGH.
 
#15
Honda fork boots are what I used on my VT-8. Pretty close to original...

Search Ebay for - - - Honda New Z50A Mini Trail Fork Boots CT70 CT70H 51505-064-010B
 
#18
Thanks!!!
I have gleaned pictures from the web of how it came from the factory, with the little disc brake on the jackshaft. That's not an ideal setup, if the chain ever lets go, there's no rear wheel braking.
I've found a hydraulic disc brake setup that will give positive braking no matter what. I can run it on the handle bar on the right or make a setup for a right side foot operated lever like on a real motorcycle. I'll just have to weld a tab to hold the caliper to the frame on the right rear.
I found some stand offs/ flanges in the past few minutes on the web. Now to figure out how much stand off I need...
Also including a picture of the original style jackshaft and brake. Not doing that......I want this to be really safe and able to stop itself well on mountain trails.
The rear hub you need is similar to the one in the first picture, but the tube has to be longer, basically from one rear frame leg across to the other with the big axle going all the way through and clamping the whole thing together. Try to locate a set of the little axle tensioners that allow you to minutely adjust the axle fore and aft and center it in the frame. Probably the first thing to get lost when “restoration” is started. Not by you. I doubt you would ever break that chain in normal usage and from experience, those high blotation tires with only 6 or 8 pounds of air in them (all you should run, 8 is even high) don’t roll very far without power on.
 
#19
Honda fork boots are what I used on my VT-8. Pretty close to original...

Search Ebay for - - - Honda New Z50A Mini Trail Fork Boots CT70 CT70H 51505-064-010B
I priced them for mine, waaaaay too expensive for my taste. These were a GE washing machine part and about $12 each. Love the look, real beefy and overbuilt like the rest of the bike!
 

KenZ

New Member
#20
I'm digging in to finding a rear rim that will work.
Found this so far, do you all think it will work?
I haven't dismounted the front tire to measure the rim width yet. The rim below lists the front tire size I posted above in pictures.
RIM 8" X 9" STEEL
49.50

White, Steel Drop Center Rims. (4) 1/2" Holes on a 4" Bolt Hole Circle. Use 9" wide 1006 Rims for 21x12.00-8 or 22x11.00-8 Tires. Valve Stems are available on the Tires Page.
 

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