Super Bronc vt1015 - don't buy from a plumber

cfh

Well-Known Member
#1
Some time ago, when i trusted people in the mini bike world, i bought a Heald Super Bronc (probably a vt1015). It was modifed, painted an ugly green. Had a honda gx160 engine and a standard clutch with a band brake. But the fenders were there. Also have an empty jackshaft bracket and gas tank. So it didn't seem awful.

But after I removed all the pipe foam surrounding the frame (where the gas tank would have been installed), the story changed a bit...



Yes that is 3/4" copper pipe. He even tried to solder it in place.
I'll bend up some 1" tubing and fix the missing piece. Also fix the swiss chess motor plate.

But I have no brake system for this. I would like to have that nifty disc brake system on the jackshaft. Just can't find those parts anywhere. Has anyone done that modification? If so, what parts did you use and where did you get them?

Lastly i need to get a torque converter for this. Is it better to use a 7" driven? And would that be asymmetric or symmetric style? That is series30 or series40? I have a nice Tecumseh 10 hp motor already, with a slide carb,. I will make a straight exhaust. Probably will be loud as crap, but the original muffler isn't exactly available...
thanks!
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#2
yes 7inch would be they way to go. if you are running a 3/4 crankshaft maybe that new driver from go power sports would be the way to go. if not a 40 series setup would be a real strong unit too for a 1inch crank. still a 30 series would still work ok too.
i'm too in the slow process gluing together a vt-10 bike. I'm still trying to keep it some what stock looking,but ton's of mods done to it.
here is picture how i thought maybe making a disc setup and how i would support it so it will not move under braking. i was thinking of just using a mechanical disc brake? starting to lean towards a hyd brake unit now. hyd brake i found is a full floater and it has a brake switch built into the handle so i can run a brake light. also plan running a billet rod with a 24mm round carb mount on the factory(long)intake. for me.... i'm personally so done with the factory carb setups.
there is just a small area where you can get a disc brake to work behind the jackshaft.

 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#3
My jackshaft assembly is a lot different than yours. Maybe mine is not correct? don't know. But it won't fit a 7" driven, unless I raise the jackshaft assembly up about 1/2". I use a series30 china torque converter on a harrison i have which has a Tecumseh 10hp engine. It works really well. All my motors have 3/4" PTO shafts too.



Here's what someone did on facebook with their vt10. They added a hydraulic disc brake to the rear wheel (but i'm not a fan of hydraulic anything on a mini bike). I think doing that and having a jackshaft brake would be nice. Could also mount a 5/8" centrifugal clutch (with the guts removed) and a band brake to the jackshaft. that would work and be pretty easy to do.

 

delray

Well-Known Member
#4
my jackshaft plate is just a comet unit that I plan on modifying it with the disc brake and 7 inch pulley. I will spit the factory torque converter cover like I did on my thunder bolt and re-fiberglass it together. still kind of going to look factory but modified.


going to show you a picture of another members bike that installed a 24mm round mikuni carb. just can't find it? might be in my photo bucket and that i believe is lock out? either way it looks like it will bolt up to the long drop style intake. this way too it should make it easy to reach over and choke the carb.
also got lucky and still have the factory front band brake.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#5
Delray why are your pictures so small? also when you click on them, opens a new tab and says "page doesn't exist".
 

chrisr

Active Member
#6
Your jackshaft unit is correct for a VT-1040, the newer Bronc with the 10hp used a Comet 40 drive and driven with a disk brake on the jackshaft. The jackshaft that you have may have cracks on the bottom radius, at least I have seen a few cracked there. Look forward to your progress.

QUOTE="cfh, post: 1235928, member: 58434"]My jackshaft assembly is a lot different than yours. Maybe mine is not correct? don't know. But it won't fit a 7" driven, unless I raise the jackshaft assembly up about 1/2". I use a series30 china torque converter on a harrison i have which has a Tecumseh 10hp engine. It works really well. All my motors have 3/4" PTO shafts too.



Here's what someone did on facebook with their vt10. They added a hydraulic disc brake to the rear wheel (but i'm not a fan of hydraulic anything on a mini bike). I think doing that and having a jackshaft brake would be nice. Could also mount a 5/8" centrifugal clutch (with the guts removed) and a band brake to the jackshaft. that would work and be pretty easy to do.

[/QUOTE]
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#9
Thank you Skip. But you’re right yeah those pictures are hard to figure out. They’re actually taken too close up. Hard to see what’s going on. Also I can’t really tell is there a jack shaft here?
 
#11
Well here goes...be kind only got one hand....first off it’s a 1” jack shaft that has the disc brake drive sprocket and driven unit all attached....mechanical caliper....in A very very crowded.... E1272B14-80A2-43D9-A5CA-DC642BC99B8E.jpeg 50EE1DE6-C96A-4B13-89CB-039D0056C8F1.jpeg 7C263538-F35E-4358-B089-49399CAD4117.jpeg BEBABE05-7D9F-4572-A1BF-674F7D80175A.jpeg 35B880DE-F76B-4578-A602-F5FBD691210A.jpeg
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#13
one thing I like about the 840 and 1040. they are setup with a 40 series unit with a large rear pulley. all this really helps the bike pull good off-road trail riding.
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#16
Worked on the frame today. Did a rough sand blasting, to make welding easier. Replaced a missing chunk of the motor plate. Still a lot more welding needed on that though. Also replaced the missing top tube. Bent the 1" tube about 20 degrees and welded it place. Looks a lot better!

 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#18
i got the motor plate fill welded to fix the swiss cheese.

But do you guys run anything on the underside of the motor plate? It's so big, i would think there would be flex on the motor plate. I was thinking of welding some square stock under the plate, from side to side. Just one run, pretty much directly under the center of the motor. Good or bad idea?? thanks!
 
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