Synthetic oil in new engine!?
- Thread starter doodlebug6.5
- Start date
- Tags engine oil synthetic
I had always heard this too.
after I spent all my milk money on a 400HP small block Chevy, I broke it in with dino oil. No issues. gave it 1000 miles of love to get started. Changed out to Mobile One at $8+ per quart...everything leaked! This was a late model block that was designed for the synthetic oils. Changed back to dino oil, we all good now!
after I spent all my milk money on a 400HP small block Chevy, I broke it in with dino oil. No issues. gave it 1000 miles of love to get started. Changed out to Mobile One at $8+ per quart...everything leaked! This was a late model block that was designed for the synthetic oils. Changed back to dino oil, we all good now!
^ this
Your engine would like some zinc in it's oil, and they're removed zinc from modern oils since it interferes with catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. Easy ways to get zinc are racing oils, a glug of STP additive into regular oil, an off road motorcycle oil, or a special "break in" additive for new engines.
Otherwise no harm in synthetic, a lot of new vehicles are shipped with synthetic from day one. Just get some zinc in there before you put too many hours on it and don't worry.
good luck with your engine!
Your engine would like some zinc in it's oil, and they're removed zinc from modern oils since it interferes with catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. Easy ways to get zinc are racing oils, a glug of STP additive into regular oil, an off road motorcycle oil, or a special "break in" additive for new engines.
Otherwise no harm in synthetic, a lot of new vehicles are shipped with synthetic from day one. Just get some zinc in there before you put too many hours on it and don't worry.
good luck with your engine!
Clone valve lifter hardness is very hit and miss..
Welded lobe cams can eat them, especially with high spring rates.
I have seen stock cams and stock lifters wear each other out in general purpose clones ( soft metal, poor machining and failure to rotate )
Before you worry about your oil worry about the quality of your valve train components.
GM EOS, and any good turbo rated diesel ol would be fine for break in if you feel its important.
Also there are Synthetics and then there are man made petroleum products called synthetics.
Welded lobe cams can eat them, especially with high spring rates.
I have seen stock cams and stock lifters wear each other out in general purpose clones ( soft metal, poor machining and failure to rotate )
Before you worry about your oil worry about the quality of your valve train components.
GM EOS, and any good turbo rated diesel ol would be fine for break in if you feel its important.
Also there are Synthetics and then there are man made petroleum products called synthetics.
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Contact forces inside the average utility engine are so low that even "low zinc" automotive oils are not likely to shorten service life.
I guess if anyone ever needed something to fret about needlessly, which oil to use in a lawnmower is as good as any.
By the way, STP oil treatment is just extremely thick base stock. There are no additives in it. It's the kind of junk meant to be put in a clapped-out noisy engine just to limp it along a while longer. Thicker oil typically provides worse lubrication in a slinger/splash oiling system.
I guess if anyone ever needed something to fret about needlessly, which oil to use in a lawnmower is as good as any.
By the way, STP oil treatment is just extremely thick base stock. There are no additives in it. It's the kind of junk meant to be put in a clapped-out noisy engine just to limp it along a while longer. Thicker oil typically provides worse lubrication in a slinger/splash oiling system.