TEC carb differences

Jeem

New Member
#1
What is the difference between the carb with canister off the bottom and the one without? Is the canister a float bowl? My carb has no canister.
 
#4
Is one any better or more preferred for any reason?

Also, does this mean my engine will not get pregnant?
No to the pregnancy.

I know a few guys are switching over to the diaphram carb because it's getting hard to find rebuildable float type carbs.
Most Tecumseh, "Almost all that you will run into on a minibike" float bowl type carbs have a unserviceable part, there is debate that its either a check valve or some type of emulsion tube that gets stuck/froze up and once that happens there junk. because apparently the carb body is cast around the part.
The advantage with the diapmram carb is that they can be mounted in any position/angle. as where a float carb should be level. And apparently always rebuildable?

As far as performance I don't think there is any difference? But I don't know.
However. In 1970 when Rupp tilted there engine plate they went with a diaphram carb because of the angle. The very next year they engineered a manifold to level out the carb and went back with the float bowl carb....There was a reason, but why? I don't know.
Hopefully MOTRA will chime in, he is very knowledgeable on the subject.
Randy:scooter:
 

Jeem

New Member
#5
No to the pregnancy.

I know a few guys are switching over to the diaphram carb because it's getting hard to find rebuildable float type carbs.
Most Tecumseh, "Almost all that you will run into on a minibike" float bowl type carbs have a unserviceable part, there is debate that its either a check valve or some type of emulsion tube that gets stuck/froze up and once that happens there junk. because apparently the carb body is cast around the part.
The advantage with the diapmram carb is that they can be mounted in any position/angle. as where a float carb should be level. And apparently always rebuildable?

As far as performance I don't think there is any difference? But I don't know.
However. In 1970 when Rupp tilted there engine plate they went with a diaphram carb because of the angle. The very next year they engineered a manifold to level out the carb and went back with the float bowl carb....There was a reason, but why? I don't know.
Hopefully MOTRA will chime in, he is very knowledgeable on the subject.
Randy:scooter:
Thanks, that's very insightful. Makes sense, seems to me that the diaphragm style would definitely be more adaptable. Although I'm running mine in the stock position. Is there a throttle hookup thread on here, somewhere that applies directly to my style of carb? I haven't seen it if there is.
 
#6
Type throttle hook up into the search feature. If you look at my photos you will see a few. If your not running a gov. then I would just fab something. If you are then I would buy the minibike specific throttle attachment, Apparently there still available. delray has a neat set up on his aqua bike, that would be just one of many. Also GTO has a trick he dose with the thumb style to make it minibike specific. Just look around and you'll get some ideas.
Randy:scooter:
 
#7
Is there a throttle hookup thread on here, somewhere that applies directly to my style of carb? I haven't seen it if there is.

Isn't it a standard flat plate with some holes in it? If so go with my for mentioned. If not post a photo of what you have, I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase. But the ones I've seen have all had the standard type hook up?
 

Jeem

New Member
#8
Isn't it a standard flat plate with some holes in it? If so go with my for mentioned. If not post a photo of what you have, I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase. But the ones I've seen have all had the standard type hook up?
I found quite a few threads, but a few of the more "telling" pics will not pop up now! Dang....
 
#9
Tec Throttle hook up

I got your pics and you have what you need for a nice clean set up already, you just need two things #1 Cable connector-barrel end, and a conduit clamp.

What you can do is remove the spring steel plate that's sandwiched in your assembly now, it has the dimples that the control "snaps" against to keep it tight, just pull, pry or break it out of the assembly so that it moves freely up and down with NO binding. Then you can either cut off the end of the Handel or leave it there. Now you either drill a hole to fasten a little cable end or weld it to the arm. And drill another hole to run a return spring down to the other and of the assembly. The black one I pictured is welded on. The silver one is the genuine minibike specific type with the hooks that the barrel simply rest against. If you notice on the black one you will see where I screwed a clamp into the existing hole to hold the cable. Also you will need to get rid of the kill switch set up, it will just pop off and that's about where you can mount your short, but pretty stout spring. I'll also add one more photo of the newer style Minibike specific type.

Cable End:


Old Mini Bike Style:


Newer style like you have, converted:

Newer style:
 
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