Tec flywheel/ignition question

#1
Is the trigger magnet isolated from the flywheel by the aluminum spacers between them? Essentially, will it still spark without them, and the magnet next to the flywheel? I'm going free-air on my street ride, and looking for as slim a package as reasonably possible. E-start only, after swapping the 120V starter for a 12v one. Obviously, I'll finish de-finning the flywheel on the lathe, and balance it. Otherwise, besides a long stainless pipe and a 31mm pumper, it'll be a stock OHSK110.

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delray

Well-Known Member
#2
I would say yes the aluminum needs to be there.
to bad you couldn't go with something like this from ARC where the magnets are in the flywheel and also build some kind of small loop guard around the starter teeth so you can't see them or have them chew up your leg and machine the fins off the flywheel and have it with polish finish. man that wheel would look so cool spinning.
it would be almost hard to tell it was spinning with a small aluminum polish center cap on it too...:thumbsup:


you would also have to machine down the two coil post so the coil would align correct again.
 
#3
I would say yes the aluminum needs to be there.
to bad you couldn't go with something like this from ARC where the magnets are in the flywheel and also build some kind of small loop guard around the starter teeth so you can't see them or have them chew up your leg and machine the fins off the flywheel and have it with polish finish. man that wheel would look so cool spinning.
it would be almost hard to tell it was spinning with a small aluminum polish center cap on it too...:thumbsup:


you would also have to machine down the two coil post so the coil would align correct again.

I fell in love with these decades ago. https://youtu.be/VPBQ5uSy1ak


The standoffs look to have steel extensions that can be removed, so that wouldn't be a big deal.

I was looking at the finless billet ones, and re-tapering the crank is no biggie. But, after seeing the trouble FastTony had with vibes, I'm hesitant to go too light on the spinny bits.

This has a charging stator and the e-start, so I kinda wanna keep it. I'll spin the fin roots off, and likely make a stainless or aluminum cover

If I finally score a clean G400 with balancers and chain driven cam, I'll go wilder. This lil 318cc runs too nice to tear up. I'm saving the real fun for flatties, but $50 on the Craigs for a running OH110 on a snowblower chassis that will contribute numerous sprockets, shafts and bearings to the pit-O-parts, and well...

Pitbike type small diameter ignition and charging would be great if I ever finish my full-circle crankshaft plan. The light crank/heavy flywheel setup has merit for ditch pumps but less for hotrods. GX120 mini sled liked the little rotor and the 35w would run an LED
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#5
did you ever get it glued together. if so any video or type of bike your going to put it on?
Ummmmm... LOL. Not yet. I still need to mill the fins flat and weld the intake. I picked up an OVXL120 and am semi-stoked about the counterbalancer, pump and the extra 39cc, less so about the V part. It looks easy enough to cut the case and weld a mount, or just incorporate it the billet side(bottom?) cover.

One of the local street-strafers has a 420/Comet 40 powered Harrison that I kinda dig. I need to measure height of the frame.
Running it on the street, free-air, with one of my Horstman CVT setups, should allow some posted-speed+ cruising, even at 22 stone plus bike?
 
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