Tecumseh carb leaking out the side vent hole

mustangfrank

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#21
#21
Bbqman said:
Can you replace the

Tried all different settings. Starting at 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 on the low speed and 1/12 on the high speed. Haven't even tried to adjust hi speed yet.
Click to expand...
Try adjusting the high speed first, factory manual 1-1/2 turns out baseline, 1 turn out on the low.

FINAL ADJUSTMENTS (NON EMISSION ENGINES)
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3 - 5 minutes). Set the speed control to the
HIGH or FAST position. From the recommended preset position, turn the main mixture adjustment screw in (clockwise)
slowly until the engine begins to run erratic (lean). Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out (counterclockwise)
until the engine begins to run erratic (rich). Turn the screw in (clockwise) midway between these two positions. This will
be the best setting. (diag. 21, 22 & 23).
Set the speed control to the IDLE or SLOW position. Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure used to
adjust the main mixture adjustment screw.
 
Bbqman

Bbqman

Active Member
#22
#22
mustangfrank said:
Try adjusting the high speed first, factory manual 1-1/2 turns out baseline, 1 turn out on the low.

FINAL ADJUSTMENTS (NON EMISSION ENGINES)
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3 - 5 minutes). Set the speed control to the
HIGH or FAST position. From the recommended preset position, turn the main mixture adjustment screw in (clockwise)
slowly until the engine begins to run erratic (lean). Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out (counterclockwise)
until the engine begins to run erratic (rich). Turn the screw in (clockwise) midway between these two positions. This will
be the best setting. (diag. 21, 22 & 23).
Set the speed control to the IDLE or SLOW position. Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure used to
adjust the main mixture adjustment screw.
Click to expand...
I can't get it idle without choke. Thanks for the input
 
mustangfrank

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#23
#23
Bbqman said:
I can't get it idle without choke. Thanks for the input
Click to expand...
Two things to check for that...the two little passages inside, behind the butterfly (hold open to see them) are from the idle fuel screw, those are notorious for plugging up. The low speed screw, spring, washer, o-ring and seat.

Sounds like your low speed is lean or partially plugged if it is only idling with choke on.
 
Bbqman

Bbqman

Active Member
#24
#24
mustangfrank said:
Two things to check for that...the two little passages inside, behind the butterfly (hold open to see them) are from the idle fuel screw, those are notorious for plugging up. The low speed screw, spring, washer, o-ring and seat.

Sounds like your low speed is lean or partially plugged if it is only idling with choke on.
Click to expand...
I had the Welch plug out and cleaned the passages. Low speed screw, washer, spring, o-ring, and flat washer all new cleaned out where low speed needles is. The only thing that is not new is the carb body and the shafts for the intake butterfly and choke. Do those go bad, can you replace?
 
mustangfrank

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#25
#25
Bbqman said:
I had the Welch plug out and cleaned the passages. Low speed screw, washer, spring, o-ring, and flat washer all new cleaned out where low speed needles is. The only thing that is not new is the carb body and the shafts for the intake butterfly and choke. Do those go bad, can you replace?
Click to expand...
You can find them new or part out other carbs, the body and shafts can wear and be loose but that wouldn't cause your issue.

Try like 2 or 2-1/2 turns out on the low speed just to see if you can get it to idle off the choke. I assume you know what you were doing when you cleaned and assembled it but when you cleaned the low speed passages you saw the tool go all the way through into the carb bore?
 
Bbqman

Bbqman

Active Member
#26
#26
mustangfrank said:
You can find them new or part out other carbs, the body and shafts can wear and be loose but that wouldn't cause your issue.

Try like 2 or 2-1/2 turns out on the low speed just to see if you can get it to idle off the choke. I assume you know what you were doing when you cleaned and assembled it but when you cleaned the low speed passages you saw the tool go all the way through into the carb bore?
Click to expand...
I did see it go through. I use a torch tip cleaner. I will try that tomorrow. Going to get snow here in Philly area starting tomorrow afternoon. I will report back. Thanks again for your help.
 
mustangfrank

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#27
#27
Bbqman said:
I did see it go through. I use a torch tip cleaner. I will try that tomorrow. Going to get snow here in Philly area starting tomorrow afternoon. I will report back. Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...
Frustrating when you've covered all the bases. Been happy with these little 5 buck eBay carb brushes, bought two sets so I could bend one up as needed.

1612057224567822379347583417285.jpg
 
creia

creia

#29
#29
An excessively worn carb body (throttle shaft hole) and/or a worn throttle shaft can most certainly cause a lean condition with symptoms as you have described as it is sucking outside air through there. Check by seeing if your throttle shaft has side -to-side or front to back play/movement.
Michael
 
Studeman68

Studeman68

#30
#30
Havasu Dave said:
Metering rod inside of pilot jet orifice free? Not damaged? Carb rattling?
Click to expand...
After reading all the posts.. Dave is on to something.. that carb should “rattle” when completely disassembled. There is a metering rod in the pilot jet orifrice that should be loose and able to be heard when shaking the carb..
I always soak the carb bodies at least 24 hours in the carb cleaning solution (gallon can with basket) then blow through all orifrices with compressed air..
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#31
#31
LOL, it was @markus and @manchester1 who clued me in to that tiny metering rod, and I even argued with them about it. But true enough, if it doesn't move, your carb will never work right at idle, and if it is stuck due to varnish, it is very hard to get it to move freely. BBQman has tried everything else, and thread participants have offered great advice, but I didn't see that rod mentioned.
 
Bbqman

Bbqman

Active Member
#33
#33
creia said:
An excessively worn carb body (throttle shaft hole) and/or a worn throttle shaft can most certainly cause a lean condition with symptoms as you have described as it is sucking outside air through there. Check by seeing if your throttle shaft has side -to-side or front to back play/movement.
Michael
Click to expand...
Is that a replacable part?
 
Bbqman

Bbqman

Active Member
#34
#34
Studeman68 said:
After reading all the posts.. Dave is on to something.. that carb should “rattle” when completely disassembled. There is a metering rod in the pilot jet orifrice that should be loose and able to be heard when shaking the carb..
I always soak the carb bodies at least 24 hours in the carb cleaning solution (gallon can with basket) then blow through all orifrices with compressed air..
Click to expand...
I soaked it and ran air through it. Cleaned every orfice. The carb was absolutely clean inside when I took it apart the first time. No dirt no varnish.
 
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