Tecumseh H35 air cleaner clearance

So I have a bit of an issue with a build I just finished. The problem is the stock air filter housing hits the fender...I know the mtd’s are sorta unique that they have a rear fender that mounts completely around the rear wheel, but after recutting another chain and moving the engine all the way to the front AND removing the new air cleaner extra piece I still can not clear the fender. Also I put spacers under both mounting parts of the rear fender to move it down 1/4 inch...

You can see how much I had to cut off my spare housing

am I missing something here? Maybe the filter bracket bolted to the carb can be clocked a different way? EF95498B-72EC-424F-8180-5C2DA9DCB337.png
I haven’t tried that yet. I just wonder if it will clear the chock arm?
Probably not. You'll have to bend it. Pretty easy to do. You could also get one of the smaller air filters- the oval type, but with the later model engine you have on it, it might not be worth it to you. They're not that common anymore, though I haven't looked in awhile.


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yea they dont give much room in the frame design, like others have said you can usually just flip the air cleaner base. Some bases, the bolt holes are at an angle but still put it over and up a bit, those are usually on HS50 engines though.

You can maybe use an original style choke lever as well and just swap it out, just have to make sure your detent spring is in the right spot to do that (or move the spring if the carb has both the spots drilled on the top.

Also just some creative bending should work as well, since the small H engine muffs don't cross over the top, I have done that on some engines I have built in the past when I used the Chinese carbs that have the long bend to fit levers. I just flatten out the arm and start from scratch with a twist and bend where I want it to sit:



Well-Known Member
Thanks Markus! I’m still looking to swap the housing out on my H35 for the old style and have no luck finding one...

PM'ing you a link to NOS shroud for under $25, as they still ave a couple in stock. You will have to cut the stud off the top and either bondo or mig and reshape the small hole....I just migged it up, It's eaiser than filling the incorrect engine numbers up on a used one at least :D

Looks like this one when you get it, stamped for an electric starter, but not popped out (like an electrical box):